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Is it possible to fab up an oil cooler by drilling and tapping the case in a certain position?
Also does anyone know where to purchase some type of reducer for an sn series to hook up a 4" cold air intake pipe? The elbow is too big.
Thank you for the help!
You can go to Lowes or Home Depot and get a reduced elbow from 4"- 3".
I drilled and tapped my case, 1/4 NPT, installed 2 each #5 AN fittings connected to standard cooler set-up. Had to clearance the blower bracket for the lower fitting. Installed the the output fitting just to the Left of C/L and the return on the Rt side at the Full level. Should make it easier to drain and refill to proper level. I did this last week waiting on a rebuild kit. I may have to install a 90 degree fitting on the output side.
If you need pics let me know
Mike
Quote:
Originally Posted by mjn082001
Yes, would you please send them to t.birdsc@hotmail.com. If I understand correctly, you are placing the suction inlet to the full level mark and the output return higher. Would you then fill to the full mark after allowing for purge and do you think there is any chance of cavitation by not having the suction inlet at the bottom of the case?
Thank you, Mike.
The output from the head unit to the cooler is just left of centerline (near the bottom). I installed it here as to not impede the head unit oil pump. The return from the cooler will be at the full mark. I plan to install a filter in the return hose also.
I'll post pics soon
Mike
Here are some pics. Sorry for the quality. I still have to remove some material from the brass fitting (threads) so the opening sits closer to the bottom of the case.
Hope this helps
Mike
How do you know that the oil level doesn't go down as the pump is running?Check it with pump on engine off?
Once the cooler circuit is full it will remain full unless you drain it or mount the cooler higher than the head unit. (not likely) So fill the head unit turn on the pump to fill cooler. Check and fill head unit.
Mike
Has anyone tried the mod of directly oiling the unit at the pump? I had spoke to Craig about this years ago. I think he can sell pumps that are cut and threaded to allow direct oiling at the pump. If mine ever needs rebuilt I was going to look more into that.
If you delete the mechnical pump piston in the head unit and plumb the return line from the electric pump for the cooler to the oil pickup (threaded) it should should work. But if you ever lose that electric pump for any reason, ie blown fuse, bad wire, faulty pump then it could get real pricey. I guess you could install a pressure switch that would turn on a light if the oil pressure dropped. You would have to shut down in a hurry if the light ever came on.
Another thing to research is oil pressure requirements for the head unit. To the best of my knowledge the electric pumps for the cooler set-up are low pressure
Mike
All of these ideas have been done before in the 25 years this unit was manufactured and you just can't beat the original design for reliability. I had over 150k miles combined on all the VR4 units I have owned and never a failure because of the pump or lack of lubrication.