Help! SN89 woes

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09-02-2006, 03:38 PM
ncook

Help! SN89 woes

I needed to repair my SN89, specifically it needed a new output shaft. I ordered it and today I installed it. After endless frustration trying to get it back together without falling apart I finally got it finished and reinstalled. When I started the engine it seemed just fine but after a second it made a bad sound and then locked up- killing the engine. I took the belt off and tried to turn the pully with my hand (which I could do prior to starting the engine) and I found out it was locked up. What could cause this? I'm afraid when I take it back apart, whatever was locked up will release and I wont know what did it.:weird:

TIA
09-02-2006, 06:03 PM
speedytang

Did you replace the balls and did the races have nicks. What was the in.lb. of the front pulley when you put it back together. Did you check the spacing of the impeller. Not to difficult to put the unit back together it usually takes about 5minutes to put the impeller shaft in and put the unit back together on a SN89-SN92. Without pictures after you take it apart and since you probably did not do all or any of the above you won't know till you take it apart.
09-02-2006, 06:26 PM
ncook

Quote:

Originally Posted by speedytang

Did you replace the balls and did the races have nicks. What was the in.lb. of the front pulley when you put it back together. Did you check the spacing of the impeller. Not to difficult to put the unit back together it usually takes about 5minutes to put the impeller shaft in and put the unit back together on a SN89-SN92. Without pictures after you take it apart and since you probably did not do all or any of the above you won't know till you take it apart.

The races looked ok. The balls arent new but they looked ok to my naked eye. I coulndt get an entire rebuild kit now so I just got the output shaft. As far as inch lbs. go, I couldnt test it, but I used the same spacers that were with the blower. I was told between 20 and 22 inch lbs, it was at least close to that... maybe a hair under. The impeller was close to the body, just the slightest rubbing but not enough to actually cause drag, it didn't contact the outer cover (intake side) at all. I dont have any way to measure any spacing- I'm not a mechanic and dont have a lot of tools, but I'm a pretty good troubleshooter in general.
09-02-2006, 10:21 PM
ncook

I just took it back apart, it appears that a pin fell out of its place and played havoc on my balls. Now my balls are all scuffed up. The two races (I assume thats what I'm looking at- the silver donuts with the concaved inside for the balls to ride in) both have guide holes and there's two pins, ones just a bit longer than the other. The race in the "hubcap" disk seems to be fused in place but still has the guide pin hole. This hole is fairly deep, I had the slightly longer pin in this hole. The shorter pin was in the guide hole on the race were the shims are located. This is the one that came out. I'm not sure what to do about this... if I put it together again the same way, nothing is to stop it from happening again. Also, what are the ramifications of using scuffed balls? BTW- my tension on the impeller was about 22" lbs.
09-03-2006, 05:24 AM
pavement pounde

I replace those pins with a pin that is slightly bigger and has a cut in the side so that it compresses a little bit so that it stays at the sme place and not fall out, and also use locktide.
09-03-2006, 10:18 AM
ncook

Quote:

Originally Posted by pavement pounde

I replace those pins with a pin that is slightly bigger and has a cut in the side so that it compresses a little bit so that it stays at the sme place and not fall out, and also use locktide.

That's a good idea, I'll go find some and some locktite. Believe it or not, once I get this back together it'll be the first time since I bought the car that the blower actually worked. Up to this point it's just been a handicap to the engine.
09-03-2006, 10:31 AM
speedytang

If the balls are scuffed don't use them because the shaft will be trash in a matter of minutes and the races are soft they will be destroyed also. Take pictures and we can guide you better.
09-03-2006, 11:18 PM
ncook

Quote:

Originally Posted by speedytang

If the balls are scuffed don't use them because the shaft will be trash in a matter of minutes and the races are soft they will be destroyed also. Take pictures and we can guide you better.

Hmm. To late, I already put it together and tested. On the good side, it ran smooth and strong during the half hour test, incredible difference. I can't believe how much power it has.
09-04-2006, 10:49 AM
Dirk Diggler

coupple of things bro,

First, the two silver donuts are the races. The bottom one will be stuck in there, you usually have to heat the case to get it out...heat expansion. I put my case in the oven @ 250 for 20 minutes and the race comes out like magic. You will want to wear oven mits!:D Second, the new impeller clearance will have a much tighter inch/lb tension since there is no wear on the new shaft. I think I had a difference of 26 inch/lbs with my new and old impeller shaft! As far as to use your balls that have been damaged...Don't do it! You can purchase some balls for about 10-20 bucks from a near by place here in tacoma washington. I got 50 for 60 bucks. I forgot the name of the place, but I did give the phone no. to a few guys here on the board. If you run damaged balls, they will very quickly destroy your input shaft, and possibly your races too. That's a 300$$$ rebuild cost in the next 1000K miles. Not worth it if you ask me:think: Do a search on the 1 1/16 balls, you will find it or ask speedy and/or pavement pound. I gave one of them the number to the machine shop where I purchased the balls.;)
09-04-2006, 10:58 AM
ncook

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dirk Diggler

coupple of things bro,

First, the two silver donuts are the races. The bottom one will be stuck in there, you usually have to heat the case to get it out...heat expansion. I put my case in the oven @ 250 for 20 minutes and the race comes out like magic. You will want to wear oven mits!:D Second, the new impeller clearance will have a much tighter inch/lb tension since there is no wear on the new shaft. I think I had a difference of 26 inch/lbs with my new and old impeller shaft! As far as to use your balls that have been damaged...Don't do it! You can purchase some balls for about 10-20 bucks from a near by place here in tacoma washington. I got 50 for 60 bucks. I forgot the name of the place, but I did give the phone no. to a few guys here on the board. If you run damaged balls, they will very quickly destroy your input shaft, and possibly your races too. That's a 300$$$ rebuild cost in the next 1000K miles. Not worth it if you ask me:think: Do a search on the 1 1/16 balls, you will find it or ask speedy and/or pavement pound. I gave one of them the number to the machine shop where I purchased the balls.;)

Man, thats not a bad price at all. Question though- since I've already run the scuffed balls, is it to late? Also, I planned on having to do a full rebuild soon anyway, the races aren't in the best condition- not bad, but they dont look "new".
09-05-2006, 11:28 AM
Dirk Diggler

If you want your supercharger to last for any period of time, I would pull the unit apart and get new balls! The scuffed balls your running will only reak havioc on your internals. Enough said on that! Just get the new parts and change the oil frequently;)
09-05-2006, 12:16 PM
ncook

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dirk Diggler

coupple of things bro,

First, the two silver donuts are the races. The bottom one will be stuck in there, you usually have to heat the case to get it out...heat expansion. I put my case in the oven @ 250 for 20 minutes and the race comes out like magic. You will want to wear oven mits!:D Second, the new impeller clearance will have a much tighter inch/lb tension since there is no wear on the new shaft. I think I had a difference of 26 inch/lbs with my new and old impeller shaft! As far as to use your balls that have been damaged...Don't do it! You can purchase some balls for about 10-20 bucks from a near by place here in tacoma washington. I got 50 for 60 bucks. I forgot the name of the place, but I did give the phone no. to a few guys here on the board. If you run damaged balls, they will very quickly destroy your input shaft, and possibly your races too. That's a 300$$$ rebuild cost in the next 1000K miles. Not worth it if you ask me:think: Do a search on the 1 1/16 balls, you will find it or ask speedy and/or pavement pound. I gave one of them the number to the machine shop where I purchased the balls.;)

Could you hook me up with the place you got yours? Or maybe a part #? My local place told me I'd never be able to find that.
09-05-2006, 08:33 PM
Dirk Diggler

The place I got my balls from was a place on the tide flats in Tacoma called "applied industrial tech." their number is 253-383-5363. You can only get the balls. The races, seals, and impeller shaft rights are owned by craig @ paradise wheels inc.