Just some ideas for future mods!

Here's a good question, I'm curious to see what everyone would do in my shoes. So my motor has 130k miles on the long block, and I expect it to last maybe 2 to 3k more miles before it starts getting real tired,(hopefully i'm suprised). Should I A)Build my spare block crank and rods with some good pistons and aluminium heads. B) use some hogged out stock heads on the same short block, or C) Save the money buy an r302 and good rotating assembly and go all out. I am wanting to have a reliable 10 sec street car that could go some 9's with just a pully change. but low 11's or some mid 10's would satisfy me. Remember this car is about 95% street, and about 5% track, and is not a daily driver. But I still want very good reliability. OH, one more thing. Very limited budget. Let me know what you guys would do in my shoes.

Brandon

For my 2 cents, a well built rotating assembly with a good crank, rods and pistons doesn't fit with the term limited budget;) Building a car to run mid 10's on a tight budget and have the car be nice and streetable will take some work to be sure. A car that could run 9's is a whole different matter altogether and will take some long green to get done.

Thanks for the reply glenn, anyone else have some ideas.

Brandon

Hey Brandon,

It is going to be hard to build such a car on a limited budget, but if I were you I would:

1 - Save for the sportsman block
2 - Buy all forged internals
3 - Have it properly machined by a pro, and have it neutral balanced
4 - Install a nice set of heads, and a cam that can pull to 6500.

The cost will not be too bad. $900 for the block, $1400 for the assembly, $1500 for machine work (guess) $1200 for heads, and maybe $200 for a cam.

I would save for the block as a stock block will not take 9's or low 10's too many times.

Ian

Hey Brandon,
I agree with everything Ian said except the B50 block. If you are going to spend $900.00 on a block, then what's another 6 or 7 hundred for an R block. If you're thrifty you can probably score a used A4 or R block for about the same price as a new B50. I just got done assembling an A4 331 motor. I got the block used for $650.00. I bought a used forged Scat crank $250.00. Used Crower rods $200.00. New Ross pistons $575.00. Machine work and all new ARP bolts and studs $875.00. So for roughly $2600.00 I got a virtually indestructable shortblock. Thats about the price of a 331 stock block stroker from any of the big mail order guys. I bought the crank and rods off of the Corral and the block from a guy in town. Now all I have to do is save more money for some new heads, I don't think my AFR 165's are gonna cut it anymore :D
Doug

Thanks for the reply's fellas. I agree with doug on the block choice, and I'm pretty sure I'll come up with a good used block. The sportsman that I saw looked about like a mexican block. Right now I've got a spare short block in my garage, that I plan to buy some decent forged pistons for, and assemble myself. Just a fresh little shortblock, I don't expect the one in my car to last much longer since it has 130k miles. Heads will be either trickflows, or afr's. I might just do a catalog cam of some sort, I may splurge for the custom. This motor I would like to be a low 11 high 10 motor that could last some amount of resonable time. Meanwhile, I'll save and collect parts for the fast motor. Just my plan.

Doug, the crank pully finally came off, I got one of the bolts with a punch and hammer, I just kept spinning it out that way, the other one I drilled a hole in the pully next to the bolt, then just hammered a socket onto it. Done deal. now if i could just get my power pipe and discharge tubing to fit I'll be good to go.


Brandon

Doug, you are right, I think they may be too small.

Let me know if you sell I may have use for them.

Ian

get a used stock motor, trickflw heads,good cam, and your set for now. and start saving for the real motor.A4,dart,rblock stroker..thats what i would do...