Does anyone have any hints or tricks for removing the impeller off of the impeller shaft? It seems very brittle, so I am afraid to pry on it. Thanks for the help.
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Does anyone have any hints or tricks for removing the impeller off of the impeller shaft? It seems very brittle, so I am afraid to pry on it. Thanks for the help.
i have blown impeller blades on my strim from ingesting a rubber spacer. I am also wondering how to remove impeller (safely) , and how to get replacement impeller , without paying vortech to repair. hopefully someone out there has been there before and this will bump to the top. thanks for any input, dave
I figured out how to safely remove the impeller from a S-trim head unit. I own a reverse drive S-trim (4.6L model), but I assume these instructions will work for a standard S-trim. I have read many posts on other forums about taking apart a vortech, but nothing extremely detailed. I will walk you through the disassembly of the unit.
I will establish some lingo. The unit is composed of three sections. I will call them the "impeller section", "center section", and "pulley section". There are two shafts. I will call them the "impeller shaft" and the "pulley shaft". Each shaft has two bearings. I will call the ones closest to the "inner section", "inner bearings", and the bearings closest to the "pulley section", "outer bearings".
Steps:
1) Remove the pulley nut using air impact(4.6L has standard threads, not sure about standard units)
2) Use puller to remove the pulley (make sure not to lose the key)
3) Mark the location of the "impeller section" with respect to the "center section" (necessary for assembly, making sure it is mounted correctly)
4) Remove the six allen bolts that hold the "impeller section" to the "center section"
5) Take the "impeller section" off (just pull off), and set aside.
6) Remove the allen bolts that hold the "center section" to the "pulley section"
7) Use a screwdriver to pry these sections apart (do not try to twist apart because there are two pins that locate the pieces together)
8) Remove the impeller nut using air impact (4.6L has standard threads, not sure about standard units)
9) Thread the impeller nut back on just a few threads.
Steps will continue after I explain important details.
Some heat is needed on the impeller to expand the metal away from the shaft. I bought a propane torch from Lowes for $25 that uses disposable 14 oz. blue propane canisters. You do not need to even touch the impeller to remove it, actually if you can picture removing the impeller shaft from the impeller by tapping on the shaft. The impeller shaft will pass throught the "center section."
Notice the clearance between the "impeller shaft inner bearing" and the "pulley shaft" gear. The "inner bearing" race will contact the "pulley shaft" gear and cause the bearing to come apart if you tap to hard on the "impeller shaft". I actually didn't notice until after the bearing came apart, although it is easy to put the bearing back together. To avoid this, the "pulley shaft" must move as you tap the impeller shaft through the "center section". I just pulled on the "pulley shaft" and it came out (you may need to pry a little bit). Be careful that the "pulley shaft" gear does not hurt the "outer impeller shaft bearing". I would tap a little on the "impeller shaft", then pull a little on the "pulley shaft". Or, do what I did, tap the "impellar shaft" through and let the "impeller shaft inner bearing" come apart (if you have to replace it, then it doesn't matter anyway, but again, putting it back together is not hard).
Continue the steps:
10) Use heat on the impeller, and tap on the impeller nut
11) Pay attention to the "impeller shaft inner bearing" (what I previously discussed)
12) Remove the "pulley shaft" by pulling on it (or any other way, but do not hammer it from the side, it must come straight out)
13) There are two washers on the "impeller shaft" in between the impeller and the "impeller section". Mark their location and position (one of them is concaved, so make sure it goes back on correctlty)
14) Replace what is necessary (I just replaced seals due to a leak, bearings where in great shape)
Hint: If you change the seals, wait until both "impellar shaft" and "pulley shaft" are back in before you install the new bearings. It is easier to get the shafts back in without the seals in place. To install the seals, hand press them in and then use a socket to tap them into final position.
This procedure is not difficult, but I do recommend the following:
- Take your time
- Pay close attention
- Work in a comforatble place
- Work in a well lit area
- Work on something smooth & flat (cardboard, tile, garage floor - in case bearing comes apart, the ball bearings will be everywhere)
Hopefully this helps!
FOUND AN ERROR: 'BEARINGS' should be 'SEALS'
Hint: If you change the seals, wait until both "impellar shaft" and "pulley shaft" are back in before you install the new BEARINGS. It is easier to get the shafts back in without the seals in place. To install the seals, hand press them in and then use a socket to tap them into final position.
SHOULD BE :
Hint: If you change the seals, wait until both "impellar shaft" and "pulley shaft" are back in before you install the new SEALS. It is easier to get the shafts back in without the seals in place. To install the seals, hand press them in and then use a socket to tap them into final position.
Awesome instructions BlownSVTCobra!!! Next question is where are you guys getting replacement impellers? Vortech is basically refusing to sell me the impeller itself even though they priced the part for me. ?? thanks again, daveQuote:
Originally Posted by BlownSVTCobra
I do not know where to get the impeller from. I bought seals from a local bearing supplier. I would have gotten the bearings there too, but I did not need them. I think that is crap that Vortech will not sell the impeller. You might try talking to an authorized Vortech dealer, and see if they could order you one. Even if they mark it up a little, you will save a fortune on labor. Also, I do not know if Vortech makes their own impellers, or if they buy them from someone. If they buy them, maybe you could go directly to them.
one reason that vortech might not sell the impeller is because they must be balanced to the head unit. that groove that you see in the center section of the impeller is made by a grinder to balance the impeller. this is impossible for alot of the do it yourselfers unless you have access to a very expensive peice of equipment. i am also willing to bet that vortech has labeled their impellers as proprietary. doesnt look like we have any choice as far as impellers go.
Thanks for the insight WOHORSY. That makes a lot of sense now. Its too bad there is not an alternative.
I let Vortech go ahead with their quote of $490. for minor rebuild (new bearings and seals) , impeller and baloot (discharge tube). I think I could have survived with just an impeller but I think vortech is being reasonable. If you consider the impeller costs of $110 + discharge tube $140 , it only cost me around $250 for my shattered impelller. The minor rebuild is basically tear down labor including new bearings and seals. They include a 6 month warranty on their rebuilds. I think Vortech has been fair on the pricing. My minor complaint is that they can take 10-14 days from receiving unit to get it shipped back out , and in my case it was very clear I would pay for UPS next day air and it shipped ground. Kinna like a part you need by friday for a race coming the next monday.... oh well. maybe this info will help someone else out , thanks to all who replied! dave