HELP: Just installed 42#injectors,80mm Pro-M and Morpheus Horsepower Pipe

1993 Mustang

I just installed 42#injectors, 80mm Pro-M Shorty cal/42# and Morpheus Horsepowerpipe.

Im not having problems with erratice idle. I rotated the MAF and the idle seems to be fine in almost every position.

The only way i can start the car is by pressing the pedal completly to the floor. It will then start up and run fine for a about a minute then start backfireing and eventually shut off.Its running super rich. I tryed to lower my fp but my Crane AFPR does not go lower then 35psi w/vacume dissconected.
Also i tryed rotating the MAF to see if it had anything to do with backfiring but the car still backfired in every MAF position.

Any Help would be appreciated.

Just a guess but are you sure the mass air sensor is installed correctly?

I know that the PRO-M meters dont have an arrow that shows the flow direction.

It is a simple mistake I hope that is all thats wrong.

Tony. I just installed 42lb injectors a 76 c&l and my check engine light was on, checked it and it was because i was just that rich. I'm gonna put new plugs in and clear the codes. It is so rich i think it would leave me stranded.

tony, if its a shorty stile pro-m I think there is a filter bolted to one end like mine. I can't get my car to idel or drive for that matter with my 80-mm and 50#ers. This is even taking enough feul out at idel with the pms to keep it from flooding. The reason it starts with your foot to the floor is because the injectors stop spraying when the pedal is mashed down at startup. Check the voltage between the c&d pins on the mass air. Should be somwhere between .5 to .8 dc volts. Anything less and the thing needs to be serviced. Also is your battery moved to the trunk? If so there is a chance (according to pro-m) that the computer is no longer grounded correctly. Let me know if this is the case, and I can give you some ideas to fix the grounding. Also, check out there website. www.pro-flow.com Pretty good site.

It sounds like we are having very similar problems. If I had a volt meter I would have tested stuff buy now. Let me know if you solve the problem.


Brandon

I did relocate the battery to the trunk but i ran a ground to the front engine blok bolt it was originaly connected to. I also ran a 10g from the battery ground to the front driverside fender were the battery was originally grounded with with the 10g.

brandon, im still having the cutting out prob on my car, what help can you give me on grounding?

i just ordered my 42's pro-m 80mm and powerpipe, i hope i dont run into these problems or i will keep the 30's in there
tonyv, if you find out the problem, please let everyone know :P
by the way, did you have to extend your mass air wiring harness to fit the meter inside the fenderwell?

I don't have much information, but I just wanted to shed a little on this with something that happen to me :)

I baught my car and "it didn't have a fp guage", and everytime I went to start it I would have to pump the gas. Well I found out a few weeks ago when I replaced the fp. The host going from the fp to the sending line in the tank had a hole in it so it would just lose all of the fp. Good thing I changed the fp. This thing would have never ran right.

Mark

Well, tony did what pro-m says to when it comes to moving the battery and grounding things. There is somthing about how the computer is grounded that requires the 10g wire to go to where it used to ground up front. (tony explained it a little better). However since I hide all my wires and have no clue to where this 10g ground would go. I was told to do this. Run a 10g wire from the negative battery post and then splice it into 3 prongs on the end. Hook these 3 wires to harness pin #'s 20, 40, & 60. Where the harness goes into the computer. He said it is very critical to make sure these are either soldered, or connected with some sort of water tight connector. This should fix any computer related grounding problems according to pro-m. I haven't done it yet, but am considering trying it. I never really seemed to have a problem in the past. (around 2 years). Hope this helps. And like I said there is some info about it on pro-m's sight.

Brandon

sounds like a cold start problem to me. You will need a custom burnt chip or eec tuner to fix that problem. basically what is happening is your computer is dumping in wayyy tooo much fuel under startup and its flooding the car not allowing it to start, and when it does start its still way too much fuel at idle which will kill the car until the car heats up and stays running.

this is common on most 42# setups.

then again i have a 1995 GT with the "abortion" computers which have many more problems than you older fox guys. just my .02 cents.

Only solution to my problem was to swapp the 42# for 30# injectors and recalibrate my Pro-M 80 mm. I gave up on trying to get this car going so the boys over at DaSilva took care of eveything. The car runs super strong and idles like a stocker. Im very happy with the end results.