Got everything up and going, I took it for a test drive and when you accelerate it bucks and surges. The car idles just fine but when you try and go well it's a sad sight. Maf or chip problem?
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Got everything up and going, I took it for a test drive and when you accelerate it bucks and surges. The car idles just fine but when you try and go well it's a sad sight. Maf or chip problem?
Sounds like a MAF situation to me ! Whats your combo ? Injector size, etc, etc...
Pro M 80MM, 30lb injectors the pro m is configured for that setup. 255lph walbro fuel pump, and chip that came with the procharger, do I need just rotate the maf around till it runs right?
Sometimes rotating the MAF helps alot. Especialy if its located after a bend in the intake track. What about a FMU ? I heard the chips Are always set way to rich, never used one just heard alot of people complain about them.. Is this on a camaro or what ?Quote:
Originally posted by Zulater
Pro M 80MM, 30lb injectors the pro m is configured for that setup. 255lph walbro fuel pump, and chip that came with the procharger, do I need just rotate the maf around till it runs right?
96 Cobra, yes I'm running the FMU. Do I want to rotate the Maf while it's idling to see how she goes?
You do want to clock your MAF so that your sample tube is on the outside of the bend before it. Also, it sounds to me like plugs... what kind of plugs are you running, and at what gap? I'm supprised no one else has mentioned that.
I have done numerous blower installs (particularly ATI) and I have also seen many other peoples result when they install them and if you don't have the right plug and it's not gapped right with a blown application, it is going to do miss, spit, and sputter under acceleration (idle just fine)... and the harder you accellerate, the worse it get's.
I have NGK tr6 plugs set at .35 gap.
I don't know the heat range of those plugs... but if they are stock replacements (and stock heat range), you might want to go one or two steps colder... if they are only one step colder, go one more. Your gap is too large either way and thats more than likely your problem, anybody will tell you that... especailly if you are running off of the stock ignition system. Gap those plugs down between 25 and 28 and it should get rid of that for you... it sounds like a small gap, but that is what everyone that has good success is doing and it seems to clear up just about all of their misfire problems, especially up high in the RPM's. Do that and then post back with how it went, I can almost gauarantee that is your problem right there.
The plugs are one step colder, do you suggest dropping to .25 or somewhere between .25 and .28? The car idles fine but once you give it gas it chokes, I'll certainly give the plugs a try though sounds like an easier fix.
Yes, gap them down... start at 28 and see what happens... I bet you will be supprised. If that doesn't work, you can try a bit smaller, no smaller than 25, but if that doesn't work, try one step colder with the gaps mentioned here.
Will do thanks for the help, I'll post my results this evening.
Not a problem, I will be checking back later to see how it went. Good luck.:)
I regapped the plugs and it's doing the same exact thing, which direction is it going to be most ideal to rotate the MAF? Do I want the sensor on the Passenger side, driver side, front or back or just play until I get the desired result?
The car will not go up over 2800 rpm it's very very rough to that point but refuses to rev above that, should I pull the ecu and make sure the chip is still in solid?
Is the meter cal'd for 30's? If so, did you or your dealer inform Procharger of that. If not, the system (if its a stage 2) should have the calibration for the 30's in the chip.
Chris
I'm pretty sure the meter is calibrated for the 30's and it's a stage 2 as well.