I did it again.

This sucks! I just blew another Headgasket. It runs ok, but when I shut it off, and only after it is off it bubbles like crazy into the overflow.
I ran it for about 2 months with the timing set on 13* with the spout out. I had even beat on it with the FMU unhooked like this with no problems.

I recieved my tweecer a few weeks back and set up a tune that Should have given normal timing up to about 2500 rpms then drop it off sharply to 13*. I had hooked the FMU back up also. I had driven it to work 4-5 times 25miles each way, and had beat on it at will. I was grinning from ear to ear every time I got in it.
Tuesday, It was a little wet out but I drove it about 7 miles from my house in which time it did warm up to 180 degrees. I left it set for 2 hours before heading home. The gage was showing below 120 when started it. When I left I sat through a one red light and headed onto the highway. In second I jumped on it and may have bumped the limiter and then ran it up into third. Not nearly the floggings it had been getting, and when I got home I heard the overflow bubbling.:mad:

I have checked the car over at least each evening I had driven it and know for certain this is when the problem began to occur.

I had several HG changes last year, and want it to stay together this year. My friends and I are all stumped.

Any Input? I didn't hear detination, blowing black out the tailpipes under heavy boost, 13* total timing from 2500 up.
Was it to cold?

P1SC 14# 2 core intercooler, 42# injectors with 75mm pro-m, Regular GT40 Irons off of a 97 Explorer, Explorer Upper and lower, Trick flow stage 1 cam, 1.7 rr, Shorty headers into 2 1/2 exhaust, a9l with tweecer RT.
Last year with this problems I had: the heads decked, short block rebuilt and checked for straightness. The best I can figure it is now 8.5:1 compression. This spring I found out the btm was bad so I sent it in for repair and bought a tweecer.

When you may have bumped the limiter... that could be your problem. Was it the EEC's limiter, or the limiter on an ignition (MSD)? If it was the stock limiter... that more than likely is your problem because it pulls fuel and even just bumping it... #14 and no fuel for a split second could have nailed it pretty good. If not, then I would have your heads machined and your block decked again... it sounds like something is more than likely not streight.

Are you running stcok head bolts? I have found that the ARP studs and good Fel-Pro gaskets work wonders on a Ford, which already sucks for sealing headgaskets anyway. If you tear it down this time, go with the head studs and the Fel Pro 1011-2 gasket and it will take a beating before you blow it again!!

What head gaskets are you using w/ the car? Also you say you've went through quite a few head gaskets, what were all your symptoms?
Not sure about the head gaskets, but arent the 1011-2's a stock replacement? I've always been told to go w/ the 9333-1's which has a stainless steel fire ring, and are a graphite material. the 8548 pt2 Ive heard is the same except with a tin fire ring which isn't supossed to be as good.
Any of you guys have experience dealing with these head gaskets?

Dan

Dan, I have always used the 1011-1's or 1011-2's One has the stainless fire ring and the other has copper. These are the thinner graphite type and are supposed to be better then the OE types. I have heard of the 9333's and they are supposed to be the FRPP performance gaskets and is actually what is in my DSS motor now. I have had no problems as of yet and I've beat on mine with a bad tune more then once... But I can tell you last year I had the 1011-2's and ARP studs on my motor when in split the block and filled number 8 with coolant and the headgasket did NOT blow!

Quote:

---

Originally posted by SnakeIs
Dan, I have always used the 1011-1's or 1011-2's One has the stainless fire ring and the other has copper. These are the thinner graphite type and are supposed to be better then the OE types. I have heard of the 9333's and they are supposed to be the FRPP performance gaskets and is actually what is in my DSS motor now. I have had no problems as of yet and I've beat on mine with a bad tune more then once... But I can tell you last year I had the 1011-2's and ARP studs on my motor when in split the block and filled number 8 with coolant and the headgasket did NOT blow!

---

donnie,
I think I may have to go with the 9333's as they are slightly thicker (.50 compressed thickness) compared to the 1011 series which I believe is .43ish. I really should lower my compression as much as possible as I am using the 58cc heads, 13psi.
I have the 1011-2 on the car now.

Dan

Last year when I went through several gaskets I think the main problem was the btm was bad. Never trust new electronics. I bought the 42# injectors incase I was having fuel problems, and bought a tweecer so I could get rid of the BTM when I got it back from MSD.
Last year the car would just start bubbling into the overflow. I did have a few severe blows like all four center cylinders into the lifter valley. Talk about oil out the dipstick onto the header! The last time I put it back together was with a fresh rebuilt shortblock.(New pistons 30 over everything else checked.) The heads were decked 5 thousandths.(which still leaves me with at 70ish cc head.) However, The guys said on the first cut the head was clean at 2.5 thousands.
I have used and blown 1011-1, 8548 pt2, FMS B-51. This time I am using the grafite gaskets that came new on the explorers. They were stamped with Ford and Felpro. I got them for $10 at the for swam meet in Columbus Ohio a week or two ago. I almost bought the whole box.

Just for the record. When I tore the motor down there was no sign of a blown Headgasket, but I don't know where else the air bubbles could have come from. She is back together now, and I'll try again.

Wow, you really go through head gaskets... I haven't ever heard of that many gaskets going on a street car that fast. If you are 'lifting' your heads (like my buddy with a 96'), then your head gaskets won't look blown because they aren't. On his car, whenever we hit over 12lbs... the heads would float and ift off of the block because the factory head bolts were stretching. After the second time of replacing the headgaskets... we threw some ARP head studs in and walah! The heads no longer lifted off... instead we blew out a ring lan :rolleyes:

Anyway, if you are putting head bolts back in every time, I would strongly suggest studs... night and day difference... if all else fails, I wouldn't be suprised if that is your problem... because if you keep blowing headgaskets, no matter what you put in, it's not going to make a difference if the heads are floating.