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Now that i've finally learned that you need a good belt, run fairly tight to avoid slippage, I.m moving on...
I'm planning to just run with the stock crank pulley, but could I bolt on the F-150 pulley just for kicks sometime, just to see what happens, without any major mods? The FMU would keep the mixture OK with 8 PSI wouldn't it? or not? (I have a Walbro 255 lph high-presure fuel pump, 19 # injectors). Would I be smart to dump some octane booster into the tank before I tried that? (California gas is only 91 octane :( )
I plan to get a "universal" bypass valve and hook it in next, probably I should do that before trying the F-150 pulley. Also I want to get a better ignition first (it's still stock, but sems to work OK so far).
Utimately I'd like to get bigger injectors, a bigger mass air, and dyno tune the beast and have a chip burned, so I can lose the FMU. The main obstacle to all that is, of course, the cost, and it runs pretty darn good right now so I am not anxious to mess with it. But if I did that, I would not be able to change to an f-150 pulley without retuning it, would I, or it might run lean with the added boost?
Thanks in advance!
Forrest
10-23-2002, 09:36 AM
root
Hey Forrest,
All great questions!
I guess boost is addictive eh :) I cannot imagine how nice that Cobra feels in boost.
Now as for your questions, is the FMU working properly? Do you have a FP gauge? What is your FP at your current top boost? If the FMU is working properly, and your timing is nice and low 10 initial there is no reason why it would not work for you.
As you said, I would recommend the bypass be installed first. Ignition upgrade would also be a good idea. The MSD 6AL, and a coil would really help you out.
Larger injectors, upgraded ignition are the ultimate, but they do cost $$$, take it one step at a time, and enjoy what it feels like now :)
Ian
10-23-2002, 12:37 PM
forrest1
Thanks, Ian.
Timing is indeed 10 degrees BTDC. I assume the FMU works, but my FP gauge is underhood, so I can't say for sure. I think maybe I will try temporarily hooking it up so that I can pressurize the FMU with a syringe just to make sure that fuel pressure increases.
This is a brand-new system, so the FMU should work--do these tend to be reliable, long-term, or not? It would be somewhat difficult to add a cockpit fuel pressure gauge, but I could do it if I need to. Without a cockpit FP gauge, I suppose that a blown head gasket might be the first indicator of a malfunctioning FMU?
Long-term reliability is important to me--I like building cars, but I hate fixing them, especially out on some remote country road.
Bypass valve questions:
The "universal" valve I'm looking at is just a pneumatic diaphragm valve, along with a couple of pieces of hose and plastic hose fittings available at any good hardware store. Seems like you don't get very much for $99-$129: is there a better option, like just finding the valve body alone somewhere and plumbing it yourself?
The bypass valve looks really easy to hook up, except that I have to weld a fitting into my "custom" blower outlet tube.
Will the bypass valve help the intake air temperature run cooler? I notice that my intake manifold and blower outlet are quite warm to the touch immediately after a drive, which I'm thinking must be due to the blower heating the air during compression. In N/A form, the intake manifold was cool or just slightly warm to the touch.
Thanks!
Forrest
10-23-2002, 02:06 PM
root
Hey Forrest,
10 initial is perfect, you do not want to run any more timing than that unless you use a BTM or race fuel.
My buddy had an FMU on his car and we think it may have been faulty. It raised the FP to 90 and the car needed vacuum leaks just to run. It sounds like yours is ok, I am sure it was just a freak accident.
If you have a bad FMU it may run rich @ idle, or it may detonate at high boost. Have you heard any detonation?
Paying $99-129 for a bypass is too much money. I bough my complete bypass for $79, and my buddy just bought one on EBAY for $20. Here is a link to a completed auction:
The bypass in the picture is what you are looking for. It is made by bosch, and should go for no more than $30 in the store.
The bypass will not help with the heat. I know exactly what you mean, after I run my car I cannot even touch the intake. The blower really heats the air (the reason for intercoolers) The only way to help out the heat would be to use an intake spacer. The blower itself will always be hot.
Ian
10-23-2002, 09:54 PM
forrest1
OK, Ian, that's just what I needed!
A brand new Bosch 0 280 142 108 valve is on it's way to my door, courtesy www.importedcarparts.com (since ABJ was already closed) for $29.08 +tax and shipping-#36.33 total.
This is the Porsche version of the valve, which is supposed to supercede the Saab version. It should be fine, anyway.
Thanks for saving me a few bucks! I knew that $99 was ridiculous for the "universal" kit.
I think that my FMU is fine, it idles fine, no detonation, really runs VERY well. I think that I'm gonna spring for a quick dyno run , though, just to check the fuel/air ratios, and because I'm curious about horsepower at the wheels. I had 208 before, feels like 300 or so now. It'll be along time before i go for the big injectors and MAS, so I'll just see where I'm at now.
If I get time this weekend I'll try to write up and post some corrections to the Novi 1000 installation instructions to help others.
Thanks!
Forrest
10-23-2002, 11:13 PM
root
Sounds great man! I am glad things are working out for you.
The NOVI 1K instructions would be great!
Also if you get time, snap a few pics of you engine compartment for all to see :)
