Running rich need ways to solve?

OK my fp is at 35 "it is as low as it can go". Now I am going to put a timing light on it today, and see what its at.

My question is if I advance the timing will it lean it out. If I remember correctly advancing the timing means it will need more fuel, and re=tarding it means leaning it out it doesn't need as much.

So I figure if it is running rich and I can't adjust the fuel anymore just advance the timing some and it will be ok.

That sound like a plan?

Or does anyone else have any suggestions?

BTW: I installed my FordChip and it didn't make a difference on it running rich like I thaught it might.

Thanks

Mark

what air meter do you have? have you clocked it? measure your mass air voltage. Pro Flow is the best site that explains this

if you have a pro flow, then it helps. Was the Fordchip a mail order? They tend to leave the mail order tunes a little on the FAT side. I had a mail order and it was way rich, but the dyno tuned one was right on the money.11:1 a/f and 488 to the wheels.

Quote:

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Originally posted by lx-convertible
Was the Fordchip a mail order?

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That was my first thoughts as well, while they may be able to get you in the "ballpark" with a mail order chip, it's no match for a dyno tune with a wideband.

that's for sure. the mail order one i have still, cuz they burned me a diablo chip for the dyno session. It was good to get me "in the ballpark" but it wouldn't allow me to hit a homer, Ya know what I mean!
I am thinking of selling the old chip, anyone interested?

Yes it was a Mail Order, however it was running rich before I put the chip on. I am running a Lighting 90mm MAF "FordChip recommended it", I clocked it and it didn't do anything.

Well I can't time it untill saturday
Because: this week I am working from 8-4:30, back to work at 9-1:00 in the morning so I have no time but to work,eat, and sleep, work again :)

money money money

I will email fordchip and ask them about it, but I am still going to check out the timing

Mark

What data are you basing this on, that it is running rich -
- wideband O2, plug readings, olfactory? Timing will not change the a/f ratio, although if it is timed poorly enough it will misfire, and cause a rich reading.

Some general notes on fuel mixtures and timing:

Stoichiometric means a chemical balance of oxygen and fuel. Nothing zip nada else. Any other meaning is not supported by fact and is probably an internet fiction.

For normal hydrocarbons burning in air:

Stoichiometric is where the peak energy release per unit mass of fuel occurs.

Peak flame temperature occurs about 5 - 10% rich of stoichiometric. This is due to the deliberate sacrifice of the energy in carbon for the energy in hydrogen. This results is the maximum number of small particles - a process called dissociation. CO and CC is lighter than CO2 and therefore will have a higher temperature. This correlates with knock as knock occurs at the highest temperature. This also correlates with peak exhaust gas temperature.

In all rich mixtures, the total energy PER UNIT MASS of fuel goes down from stoichiometric upwards. As a rule - the flame speed increases as you go excess fuel up to about 40% or so. This is because more free hydrogen is available and free hydrogen burns hotter, faster - about 8 to 9 times faster than gasolines and with more air - 1000% ( One THOUSAND percent ) excess air
vs gasolines limit of about 25% excess air.

All fuel added above peak temperature mixture functions SOLEY as an internal coolant.

As you go lean of Stoichiometric, the total energy decreases. The flame temperature decreases. The flame speed falls off.

Lean, although we are losing energy and speed, we are gaining mass. Lean best power is where we have gained the most mass possible and lost a minimum of energy - thus making the highest bmep of a given unit of fuel.

Going lean requires advancing the spark to maintain the same bmep because the flame speed is slower.

hth

you can smell fuel out the exhaust, It's loading up

Mark

hey mark, are you still running the FMU or did you go bigger injectors? if your running the stock FMU i have a way you can adjust your factory 12:1 fmu to whatever you want. i wanted to start a thread about how i found a way to adjust the 12:1 FMU from 12:1 to 1:1 incrementally in 1:1 adjustments. very easy & makes a huge difference. just need to be careful that you guage your tune as best as possible. air/fuel guage, FP guage, etc. im running some pretty aggressive timing & approx. 8:1 with my factory FMU. made a huge improvement.......i applied my turbocharging knowledge to my blower application to make the FMU fully adjustable! give me a shout.......
-justin