stalling problem and strange noise

Hey guys, I am having a frustrating time with my car lately. On a regular basis while driving, my check engine light comes on and the car wants to stall, if I give it gas this prevents the stalling and it goes away until the light comes back on, I pull code 33 and code 66 on continuous memory and code 67 on the hard codes, my car has a novi 1000 blower, the rest is basically stock, any ideas? Also, I have a strange howling type noise coming from the engine bay, it gets louder with more rpm, what could it be, my head unit, water pump, crank bearings?

well asside from the codes, i bet the howling sound is the fan blowing into your deep crank pulley. i remember wondering what this was the 1st time i heard it. if you have the stock fan still, then it gets real loud when you hit the temp that locks the clutch & the fan spins full speed!
now for the codes, 33=EGR valve, its probably sticking or its not hooked on correctly. code 66= MAF, check that its hooked up correctly. if its anew unit that you installed with larger inj.'s you may have a problem there. code 67= nuetral safety switch for auto's or clutch switch for 5 spds...........EGR & MAF will cause idle/stalling probs...........
-justin

Wow, you really know your ****, lol. Hey, the fan thing sounds like it is likely the problem, it howls when the car is hot , is code 67 for the fan? Also, I changed the egr valve and it didnt do anything, I changed the mass air flow sensor, it also didnt do anything, what else would cause low mass air signal, I have heard of guys clocking their meter, is that a possibility, and what code would cause my engine light to come on, thanks for the info

no, the factory fan wont throw a code, the clutch just goes out. any code will make your check engine light come on, this is how you know you have a code/fault! as far as the codes for the MAF & EGR, they are probably fixed & the codes are stored into continuous mem. if they werent fixed they would be pulled up as current hard codes. you need to reset your codes......pull the negative batt cable for approx 30 mins. then rehook & start. see if you still get the codes. the 67 is a current problem & must be fixed before you can clear it....a far as your idle/stalling. could be a few things. check your TPS setting(.95), pull & clean your IAB with t.b. cleaner, check for vacuum leaks............start here, easy stuff, then go from there.........
-justin

RICH, are you having these problems using the stock MAF and 19# injectors???

I reset the memory by using the code reader and tried the battery as well but I keep getting the codes. So I reset the memory and scan for codes and none appear, I drive it aways and then scan for codes and the hard code and memory codes 33 and 66 show up as memory again, whats up, is my computer fubared? Hey tony whats up, I am still waiting for the injectors and meter, this is with the stock stuff and it all happened when I put on my headers and off road hpipe.

If your car is standard dont touch the clutch pedal when you are checking for codes that is what kicks in the 67.

I also had prblems with the exact codes as you, it turned out to be bad connections in both cases.

Double check them and make sure the mass air and egr are plugging in correctly and in good contact.

do you have the little vacuum line from the egr to the intake? because even though exhaust gas is not coming to the egr the computer needs the right signal from vacuum. Yeah i learned that the hardway.

I have a stock set up, I didn't modify anything so I shouldn't have a problem, I have cleaned the connectors, problem still there.

ttt

so still the same problem codes even after the suggestions here? can you start your car w/o engaging the clutch? if so your clutch switch is bad & you will throw a code untill this switch is corrected.

also it appears the connections at the EGR & MAF are causing your problems for some reasone. i know you said you checked the connections but your still getting the codes & your car is reacting as if these sensors are bad, so try this. pull the neg battery cable, then pull the connectors back apart. file the male pins with a emory board(like the one your girlfriend uses on her nails). then apply "dialectric grease" (also known as tune-up grease) to your male pins on your connectors. reconnect the connectros along with your neg batt cable.....let us know what happens.......

if a problem is still appearent you may need to swap your ECM with a known good one, possibly a local buddy with a smiliar model year stang.......(i know, process of elimination sucks!)

-justin