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Took car to "The Dyno Edge" today to make sure we had safe A/F. Only made one pull because we need to lean out the top end and I want to keep the FMU so I need to get some ratio disks for it. Motor was rich and loosing power from 5600 - 6600 (10:1 A/F). Made the numbers on 14 psi. We figure we can pull another 70 rwhp with a flat A/F of 12:1.
Here's the numbers: SAE 410.5 rwhp, 452.9 rwtq.
Not bad for 102000 mile bottom end.
Wayne
Nice numbers for being so rich. where was your timing @?
Dist - 10 degreesQuote:
Originally Posted by regattacoupe
Stock EEC IV pgm
Global spark adder - 0
Spark multiplier - 1
BTM - 1
Datalog for dyno pull showed spark at 32 degrees at start of top gear pull and dropped to 31 degrees at end. BTM held spark steady.
Wayne
I hope that was a typo.
I wouldnt suggest running 31 total with boost, more like 21 ;)
yeah what chuck said!
Wayne.
You have enough injector to ditch the fmu at this altitude. Just my $.02. But if you want to keep it I think Tony has the recal disks in stock. (Least he did)
Mike
yo; lose the fmu just make sure you have enough pump and for the a/f ratio 12.0 to is not where I'd wanna be 11.5 for blower set ups and no more timing than 26 total at peck boost or your asking for head gasket problems,being a little to agressive with timing will aways cost you in the end,been there done it years ago just my two cents,chris.
Chuck,Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuck
I wish it were a typo. As it turns out, I blew a headgasket the next day (at least that's what it looks like, won't know till heads come off Monday). Also found out that looks like Boost retard wasn't working at all, the reason for the 30 degrees of timing.
I have my Mallory HyFire VI set up for 1 degree/lb for 3 bar map and they might have sent me 2 bar. Don't know if that's the reason or not. More investigation to do.
Also got in touch with the guys at Stangtuning and V8Mustangs and they were really concerned about the set up. I sent them the datalogs, tunefiles and dyno data and will get a good tune for my Tweecer. Then make sure that the BTM is working before we do anything after getting the motor fixed.
A tough lesson to learn (albeit and expensive one too) but a lesson none the less.
Wayne
i wouldnt suggest running that much timing when you lean it to 12.0:1 especially with 14psi, im surprised it held the HG's in the thing with that much timing. but nice numbers none the less
EDIT: damn dude i just read your bad news, sorry to hear that :(
Hey no problem, a hard tough lesson (albeit expense) but there you go.Quote:
Originally Posted by blown1989saleen
Believe me when I get it back, I'll have taken a lot more tuning precautions and get the set up right before beating on it at all.
Wayne
Discovered something important. My TweecerRT datalogs are just what the EEC sees. The BTM is an external device and the final spark info is after this. So assuming its working correctly, you have to base tuning changes on datalog - minus BTM (assuming its correct/functioning). That means that my spark values were around 20-22 degrees (if it was working).Quote:
Originally Posted by Hounddog
Wayne
Thats a big IF, these things are known to be unreliable. i blew a HG back in the summer due to my MSD 6BTM pulled little to no timing. when you get the car running test the BTM to be certain it does work.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hounddog
Do you have any easier method than what AFM described to me?Quote:
Originally Posted by blown1989saleen
Car running
Spout out
Reading timing w/light
Disconnect input to BTM (vac/boost line)
Inject accurately metered pressure of 1 - 2 psi and read timing for retard.
Wayne
I just set my timing at what i want it and I dont use the spout connector.
That way I dont have any worries about the timing ie: BTM failure or mid range timing spikes they can get upwards of 40*.
I would think that you could tune the timing curve with the tweecer cant you?
Yes that can be done.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuck
Wayne