Belt to tight Broke the Crankshaft

Here's the story, I got a little hasty and instead of waiting for my Larger
pulleys so I could fix my Belt slippage problem with the VR4 blower, I instead
tightened the Cr&p out of the belt, and man this thing ran awesome 13psi
all the time.
Well after two days it broke the snout on the Crank just behind the balancer (CR&P), anyways the Engine still runs just that the balancer is
broken off.
SO THE DAM THING NEEDS A CRANK.

Instead of dumping more $$$ (I estamate 2,000 for a good crank & extra's) into a hobby just for me I'm selling it and all my spare's and Extra's, and going to buy a new truck with a Blower (Magnacharger RADIX) of course and a boat so the wife and kids can enjoy my hobby Boating, Skiing, partying.

Aye :weird:

I am sorry to hear that, now I know I will not tighten the Cr&p out of my belt becouse I have that slipping problem to.
Better look for bigger pulleys or more rib's.

I used a slightly longer belt for better wrap. Got it off a 2.3 Ford accessory belt setup.

F=MA

Your selling the car??? Would you be looking to sell your VR4 head unit??? please let me know. thanks

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Originally Posted by saleen88

Your selling the car??? Would you be looking to sell your VR4 head unit??? please let me know. thanks

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No, if I don't sell the car then I may just fix it, so I would need to keep the vr4.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by F=MA

I used a slightly longer belt for better wrap. Got it off a 2.3 Ford accessory belt setup.

F=MA

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How is a longer belt going to help against belt slip ?

It wraps around the pulley for more of its circumference, thus providing a larger friction surface, thus less slip and lower tension needed. The ultimate restriction here is where the tensioner is, as you can only get so much wrap before the top run of the belt hits the lower one. I'm within an inch or so, about as close as you'd want.

F=MA

Louis,

CNC motor sports is where I got my eagel 4340 crank for under 400 bucks! They sell "blem's" that are turned by eagle and the quality is as good as new! They Xray the cranks for cracks ect. I would throw one of the 4340 blems in your engine, check the heads for any bent valves, I had 3 on mine when this happened. Zip here back up. I bet this whole thing will only cost you 5-600 bucks if you get away with no damage to the valves.

IF you need any help, I will do my best for ya bro!

Craig

Quote:

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Originally Posted by F=MA

It wraps around the pulley for more of its circumference, thus providing a larger friction surface, thus less slip and lower tension needed. The ultimate restriction here is where the tensioner is, as you can only get so much wrap before the top run of the belt hits the lower one. I'm within an inch or so, about as close as you'd want.

F=MA

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Sounds logical, thanks