head lift , why ?

Hi , I work on my fathers 95 mustang supercharged and last week he blown a gasket , he got a big blow by in the deep stick tube and he found a little oil in the overflow . He can drove back to house without problem , only see 220° in town after 40 min of highway .

I tear the head appart and found that the head gasket is intact . i only see a spot where the coolant pass thu the cylinder . Number 8 cylinder had only 40psi on compression test and all the other had 120. The bloc was bone stock 60k mile whit 10psi . i saw that the 7 and 8 cyl were burn coolant . The machinist said the driver head were a little bit warped and the passenger head were strait . he shave .005-.006 for both head .

He have a Vortech SQ-trim with anderson power pipe and he got 10psi at 5000rpm , timing is blocked at 24° , FP at 42 vacc off , inject 30lb with FMU 6:1 disc . T-Rex 255 inline fuel pump . Spark plug are NGK iridium 1 step coolder than stock gapped at 32 . Cap , rotor and wire are new . WB show a 11 to 11.5 AFR at wot .

since he have the power pipe , he always have a small skipping at the end of the track , like fifty feed before the line , the car skip a little . the problem still there even new spark plug , switch the injector to 30 lbs ( 19lb before)


I suppose the head lift because of a lack of fuel , and a pinging problem , but i would like to know the real reson . I know he got a bad tune but the car run very well for 200 pass without probleme and 12k mile since the S/C is bolted on . The injector swap is the only change since last year .

THanks all for your help .

hey ive got a 94 gt with 8lbs of boost and i am having the same problems, my third headgasket just went yesterday on AFMs dyno not even getting on it. from what they told me this time its due to the factory e7 heads having to little of deck thickness to hold down. i dont completely by that but its what they told me. i can not figure out why mine keep going we have done everything correctly everytime and cannot figure this one out but if you figure out what caused yours let me know please.

First questions would be, how is the fuelling, then is it detonating ?

If its tuned wrong, or poorly, then you will have no end of problems.

And "lifting heads" is not the same as blowing a head gasket.

Lifting the heads would be more, a slight leaking of the head gasket setup, due to excess power, or inadequate clamp etc.

A blown head gasket is a blown head gasket.

update

Now the head have been checked , head gaskt 9333-pt2 , arp head bolt , head have been decked , inspected .

We still got 40psi in cylinder #8 ( the ring is probably cracked ) , but ! the engine still overheat and boil into the rad after a couple of min of hard driving . the fmu boost the fuel pressure at full boost . A leak down test was done and no leak at all , pressure stay in the engine for over 20min .

i was suspected the injector , he got 30lb and pro-m 75mm , so we change for the original setup , 19lb and FMU and stock mass air , still overheat in hard driving condition . Whit or whitout the S/C the engine overflow the prestone .

Is the T-Rex inline fuel pump is enought for 10psi of boost ?? ?? . he run the same setup since 2 years and never had probleme before .

Thanks

Just asking, but did you install the head gasket the correct direction?
Next, have you run the car with NO thermostat?
Have you verified that the electric fan is working correctly?
This is a start I could go on for ever.
Hard to do this without seeing the car in person.

well i ended up fixing mine by goin off AFMs recomendation and getting new heads. it Fixed the problem, the thicker decks on the head provided a better seal and i went with cometic mls gaskets. it fixed my overheating problem and my headgaskets blowing problem. all said and done i spent 1800 in parts on the final fix.

10+ years building over 500 rwhp with E7 heads and never a gasket problem. It is always something causing the problem so spending that kind of money when all you probably needed was a quality gasket or torquing the head correctly. You said you used ARP head bolts did you correctly lubricate the bolts to get a correct torque reading. Are you using a quality/calibrated torque wrench. Like I said earlier many questions. Also just so you know the WB reading means nothing since your leaking fluid into the exhaust, your not getting a good reading.