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Got a great deal on a NX kit so I grabbed it wat to jet it for 100hp setting on my crate FMS 302 aluminum heads.I also installed a PMS unit and wanted to take advantage of the nitrous features it has.
So,has anyone run NOS with a blower and how were the results pro's con's?
Thaks in advance as usuall
If you use a 100hp pill you will get about 125hp from the kit when used with a blower. The N2O will cool the discharged air and it just really builds the power and builds it fast. Start out small with a 60hp pill and use a wide-band to get the timing correct in the PMS under the N2O settings. The biggest problem with N2O is it is not a constant and really hard to tune using a blower without logging everything. Use a external fuel pump also because your asking for a lot of fuel with the blower and N2O and it will only take a second to cause a lean condition.
I have 42lb injectors with a Kinsler rail mount pump that is flowing 450lb/hr so fuel shouldn't be an issue I hope.I will have to locate a smaller jet smallest I have is a 100hp. I got all the pluming done today just need to get wiring to PMS done and purge then fill bottle and test. I guess another trip to dyno is in order or I buy my own WB.
I would get a WB that is the best money you could spend now that you have a PMS
Is one WB better than another ? I am going to be ordering one at end of month.I was also reading that it is not good to leave it permanently hooked up?Is this true?
Make sure you get a WB that logs so you can look at your data
can you post that article ?Quote:
Originally Posted by slownlow
Z.
I have never heard about it being bad being instald permanentley.Quote:
Originally Posted by slownlow
I use a LM-1 with data log capability it is not really designed to be installed permanentley using power from the sigaret lighter.
Uego has a nice wide band for permanentley instalation and also datalog possebility.
Check Ebay on them.
Wide-band sensors are like any other o@ sensor they are accurate reading to about 60k miles then start to fade. Honda used wide-band sensors in factory cars for years and are what most wide-band use today for part numbers.
Quote:
Originally Posted by zray
No article just blah blah in other forums... Thats why I come here for straight answers. :)
what should I be looking at for a WB price wise. Will it work with My PMS unit? I was told you can wire it into the PMS and use the Software for laptop to data log also?Quote:
Originally Posted by speedytang
have you ever done this.
Sorry this is LONG but this is what I found.
PMS
Which wideband?
The ONLY wideband that will correctly read on the PMS' handheld (without the optional Interacq software) is the AFM UEGO1000.
Which PMS?
To use a wideband with ONLY the PMS, you must first have a 2004 model PMS or an older one with the 2004 upgrade chipset.
When you select the "Wideband" option in the PMS, it will look for the wideband voltage and display it on the handheld, converted into the air/fuel ratio.
Install
The UEGO1000 needs to be installed separate from the factory sensors, as it is a standalone unit. The factory O2 sensors are needed for the EEC to do its basic functions (see below). You need to weld a separate bung in the exhaust, at least 30" from the cylinder head. Overheating can be a problem. Actually, it is just as accurate and even safer if it is located further down the exhaust on the H/X pipe, before the junction. Stay clear of the junction of the pipies. You wan tone clean signal from either the left or the right side exhaust. If you have catalytic converters, try to place it ahead of the converter. Remember, dynos just shove a wideband into your Tailpipe, after the mufflers and catalytics, so it isn't critical to keep the wideband near the exhaust header. These widebands have their own heat source and will operate even if installed further down away from the header collector.
Wire it up...
On BOTH the EEC4 and EEC5 you can wire in the wideband input into EITHER of the O2 receiving ports on the PMS' small connector. Look for the two connectors on the opposite end from the EEC adapter end of the PMS' wiring. Look at the small connector. You should find reference letters and numbers on it, B1 through B12.
EEC4. You need to locate the B10(=Right O2) or the B11(=Left O2) ports. I suggest splicing in at a convenient place along either wire from the B10 or B11 port, where you will have enough room to get tools in there, etc. Don't cut the wire too close to the PMS connector!
EEC5. You need to locate the A5(=Left O2) or A6(=Right O2) ports on the large connector. Follow the same installation advice above.
With the UEGO1000 you splice the red wire in the gray jacketed set of cables. Next, run a wire from the ground the UEGO1000 by splicing the black wire to B12 on the PMS.
Do not be confused that you are losing the narrow band, factory O2 inputs here. If you added the UEGO1000 in a separate bung, and it is operating independent of the 2 factory O2s, then all is good. The EEC will still see those factory O2s, and operate as normal. If you removed one of the factory O2s and replaced it with the UEGO1000, then you may experience driving quality issues, as the EEC will only read the one factory O2. I advise against this.
Regardless of which port you splice into, you are NOT defeating the narrow band inputs to the EEC. Remember, the PMS is seeing the O2 signals after the fact. When you splice into the PMS' connector, you are merely replacing the O2 signal from the EEC with the one from the UEGO1000. The EEC has already seen that O2 signal and used it for calculations. The PMS just passes that signal along so you can see it and know what's going on.
You can mount the UEGO1000 display anywhere you want, it will be active even while connected to the PMS. You will be taking the output wire off the UEGO1000 and splicing it into one of the ports on the PMS' large connector. What port you splice it into depends on what model EEC you are operating.
INTERACQ/INTERLOG and Alternate Widebands
What wideband can I use?
Any wideband that you can find, as long as it is a 0-5 volt output, and you know the conversion scale for volts to a/f ratio. Examples of widebands that will work are the PLX, Zeitronix, UEGO1000, LamdaBoy, DIY, AEM, the LM-1 and most others.
Install
If you are using a standlone wideband, one like the UEGO1000, then you should follow the installation as outlined at the top of this post. If you are running a dual band kit, like the PLX, you can substitute the wideband for aone of the factory narrow band O2s, as long as it isn't too close to the cylinder head. If you are running short tube headers, I would advise against swapping the wideband with a factory O2, as the heat may disrupt the accuracy of the unit. I would suggest you weld in a separate bung. If you have long tube headers, then you should be fine to swap the wideband for one of the narrow band factory O2s located in the collectors. Again, keep in mind that dynos use tailpipe widebands that work just fine. If you place the wideband a bit downstream you are playing it safe and not affecting the readings. I have been told to avoid the cross-over junction, but I have never seen a wideband placed there so I have no direct experience on how that would impact the readings. I suggest using common sense in the install, and avoid turbulent areas or excessive heat.
Wire it up.
The Interacq and InterLog follow the exact same installation instructions as the PMS, as the Interacq and InterLog are just fancy replacements for the handheld via a laptop. Follow whatever wiring instructions came with your particular wideband. If you installed a dual band kit, AND you installed the wideband in-place of one of the factory O2s, then you will need to splice the narrow output from your kit into the corresponding O2 input into your EEC. Otherwise, all you need to do here is take the 0-5volt output wire or source from your existing wideband and splice it into one of the ports as discussed above under EEC4 or EEC5.
How do I get my non-UEGO1000 to display the correct a/f?
You need to create a Conversion file, and add it to the Configuration table. PM me for details. J/k.
Okay. The first thing is to make a Conversion file based on the voltage output to a/f ratio of your particular wideband.
Open the Interacq, click on Data Log>Setup>Conversion Files. You will see the Conversion File creator open. In the Part Number, Description, Title you can just enter the name of your Wideband or similar info. This is not necessary, but a convenience. Under Units enter something like "a/f". This stuff will be seen on the Data Log graphs later on and make for a nice way to reference.
Set the Precision to "2". Don't ask why.
Now, in the lower left corner you'll see the Set Points. Then you should see Volt and Value with 2 blank cells under them. You can use the Insert key to create more cells. What this means is the Volt cells are the volt readings from your wideband. The Value cells will be the corresponding a/f ratio YOUR wideband has set, given the volts. If at 1.0 volts your wideband is reading the a/f as 10.5:1, then your Volts cell would have "1.0" and the Value cell immediately to the right would have "10.5" in it. You should create as many Set Points as necessary to give an accurate breakdown for the Interacq to use. When you are finished creating your SetPoints, then go to the right and click on Value under the Values side of the window. You should see your volts and a/f interpolated and broken-down into a much more detailed set of cells. You are done. Save the File under whatever name you want. now we have to go put it into the Configuration Editor.
Click on Data Log>Setup>Configuration.
A window pops up saying something about altering parameters crap and tech assit and whatever. Go for it, click OK. Now, Click on File>Open. A new window opens, and here you need to define the type EEC you are using. If you are not sure, think about what type of MAP sensor you can run, if you use a 3 bar sensor, then that is your EEC type. The Interacq and InterLog actually show you the type EEC you have when you connect them, that info is in the lower part of the status bar area on your laptop.
Now you will see the grand configuration table. Knowing which O2 port you used, Left or Right, you can alter the way that port uses its information. Let's use the common Left O2 signal is now the new wideband signal. Under "Assign," find the Left O2. Its probably #2. Its Title reads "Left O2". Well, click on that and delete it, type in something like "WB" or "Wideband." Click on the Units cell, and type in "a/f." Double-click the File cell, and a little browse box should appear, looking like a little gray box with 3 dots in it. Click on that. It opens the Interacq Folder, and now all you gotta do is go find your new conversion file. Double click your saved conversion file. Scale and Port leave alone. Size, type in "1" and don't ask why. You're finshed! WooHoo!
Now, open the program, and open the monitor. Make sure the monitor form displays the Left O2. It should read the converted a/f once you fire-up the car. The new wideband will be recorded same as all the other inputs, when you trigger the recorder.
Just remembered one more question? Do you think it would be safe to shot the dry kit before the supercharger or just do it after? Not sure if the SN89 would like the cold High Pressure gas going through it?