Eric how did you get that 80 prom hooked up to the stock paxton plastic snorkis of a inlet?
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Eric how did you get that 80 prom hooked up to the stock paxton plastic snorkis of a inlet?
Update. I put the C&L back on and played a bit. It idles like stock, a/c on or off. No black smoke, no surging, virtually perfect. At rpm and throttle transistions, it is not as smooth as the Pro-M. The Pro-M feels smoother and stronger at rpms. I am going to call Pro-M and see if I can have them tweak it for idle purposes. The C&L proves it is possible to make it idle without a chip. But is is absolutley driveable at this point and I will probably get it to the track next week for some numbers.
Steve: I fabricated up a tube to the inner fenderwell using my old C&L true flow aluminum inlet tube. It fits so awesome, it just doesn't work well!
Eric, I am proud of you man. Keep after it.
I am going to buy you an internet beer for your efforts.:)
Yup, 99 out of 100 that i've seen, the maf is the culprit for rich idle. I've done some pretty extensive tests btw. Sounds like you've certainly narrowed it down. Now get on the horn Pro-M so you can enjoy that blower! It should make some pretty big Torque with that combo! And Torque is 10:1 more fun than Horsepower. ;)
Any news on this eric? Did you ever contact pro-m?Quote:
Originally Posted by EricBlueCoupe
Yeah I called tham and they agreed there is a calibration issue at idle. They told me to send it in and they would look at the calibration on their dime. I just need to ship it. I am constantly out of town, so I have not had a chance. Hopefully, I can get it trimmed down a bit at idle. If it does not fix it I will have to consider smaller injectors or a custom chip I imagine.Quote:
Originally Posted by regattacoupe
i have been having the saem issued with mine. the tuner even tryed taking fuel out for a warm start but it still wants to surge and die. if i have the idle up to 1000 it won't die while coming to a stop but still gives me fits when i first start it up when its already warm. i had my old c&l true flow tube rigged up like you did to get the filter down into the fenderwell. well last night i took the tube off and put the filter back on the end of the meter. it idles alot better now and warm starts don't appear to be an issue now. i still need to get it out for some road testing though.
edit: i have the pro-m 75 bullit
Yup, I took the true flow back off and put the K&N filter on the end of the meter, like Paxton gives you. I have been driving it the last few days just like stock. The C&L still doesn't feel as snappy as the Pro-M, but I will have to get a real powerpipe and put the Pro-M back on when I get it back. I have the best driveability so far with the C&L, K&N cone, and the plastic shield that Paxton gives you.
I tried a back to back test with the C&L trueflow tube bolted up so it stuck basically as straight up out of the hood as possible. I put the C&L meter on it and started it, idled well. I turned the car off, put the Pro-M on it, and it chugged black smoke and started to surge right away.
I am probably going to head out to the track tomorrow night for some passes and see how it does.
i think what i'm going to do is extend the wires on the meter so that i can still have the filter in the fenderwell.
Just make sure that you soldier all connections, no butt connectors.Quote:
Originally Posted by slider_buck
yep, thats the only way to do it. i always solder no matter what.