no i went to a 59 5/9 8 rib.......
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no i went to a 59 5/9 8 rib.......
No you need a longer belt (I think it's a 58") and I'm running a bosch bypass valve with no probs and you can find them pretty cheap
edit: sorry I didn't see your post regattacoupe
Is one by-pass valve better than the other, I see paxton sells one for 129.00, also is the pasxto supplied discharge tube pretty good or do you guys recommed another over the paxton, I've been looking at the vortech with the built in by-pass location,sinceI'm not running a smog pump, how do I retain the by-pass valve?
Thanks, Rusty
I don't know about the quality between bypass valves, I just know the cheaper one is working great for me.
The discharge tube is good now that they supply the aluminum ones.
What do you mean " built in bypass locations"? Our discharge tubes are essentially the same as the vortech ones, we have places for the bypass valve to plug in.
It doesn't matter if you have the smog or not, the bypass valve doesn't have anything to do with it. It plugs in between your discharge tube and intake piping (or powerpipe).
Thanks for the reply I once again answered my own ?. Today I purchased a Morpheus power pipe and the renegade crank pulley, now I"m going to purchace a by-pass valve. Now that I've got that all out of the way which rear gears are you guys running, 3.55's 3.73's or 4.10's my car is a 5-speed and I really want to run DR"S
You'll get different opinions with that qustion. I'm running 3.55's and they're working pretty good but I wouldn't mind having 3.73's (daily driver)
I see that your car is a auto, do you have the wide ratio gear set in the trans?
To run the full 1/4 and w/o a chip or tuner that allows you to exceed the 6250 stock RPM limit of the ECU 3.73's on a 26" tall tire will be about the most you can go.
I was smaking the rev limit (MSD at 6200) about 200 ft short of the finish with 4.10's, ~7-8#'s, 26" tires and ~117-118 mph. I dropped back to 3.55's in anticipation of running close to 15#'s on my Dart block 331, but sure do miss the "fun" factor of the 4.10's
Are you refering to me cause I have a 5 speed.Quote:
Originally posted by allthrottle
I see that your car is a auto, do you have the wide ratio gear set in the trans?
mine is an auto......i buzz down the road at about 2400 @ 55mph-w-28" tall tires and 3.55 rear....... I trap @ about 5400. More stall will fix that low trap rpm though
I'm leaning towards the 3.55's, what do you guys think? I still don't know what to do about the injectors, I'm running 30lbs now but I really don't want the hassle of an fmu, I've heard many horror stories about fmu's, do you guys think that I should just go ahead and install 42lb'ers or what would you guy's do?
I would do 42lber's cause I was in the same shoes and ended up doing so.
Is your car an AOD/5speed, daily driver, what?
Hey guy sorry it's been awhile since I've been on, my car is a 5-speed, I also need you guy's info on a intake, I'm thinking about switching to an edlebrock preformer rpm II the v-shaped one, what do you guys reccommend?
Thanks, Rusty
RPMII looks awsome, I would love to try one out personally.
http://www.50mustangandsuperfords.co...s/138_0305_rpm
Edelbrock cracks me up. Anyone can see in the pictures of the new intake that the RPMII lower manifold is the same old part #3820 as found with the original Performer and RPM intakes!
Interesting that their dyno test shows a 17hp increase just by swapping the upper intake, probably worth more on a blown app. Don't misunderstand, I think the new upper intake is wunnerful, I plan on adding an RPMII upper to my fully ported 3820 lower as soon as it becomes available as a separate part #. Until then, Edelbrock is probably hoodwinking plenty of existing Performer owners into buying a new 3820 lower to go with their fancy new upper intakes. I've also heard that Edelbrock significantly revised their Performer heads, improved flow on the exhaust side and made the chambers more efficient.