I am not exactly sure how it all works. Someone else would do a better job explaining all that. But if those are the gaskets you had on before and they worked out fine I'd stick with them.
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I am not exactly sure how it all works. Someone else would do a better job explaining all that. But if those are the gaskets you had on before and they worked out fine I'd stick with them.
great appreciate all the help though
:weird: Sorry I couldn't do more.
Do you have a stainless steel o-ring in your block or heads, or do you have the receiver groove in your heads for the Fel-Pro lockwire gaskets.
I have a stainless steel wire (o-ring) in my heads and I use the ROL graphite gaskets with this setup. They work excellent.
If you have your block's decks machined for o-ring seals, then the machine shop doing the grooves would then place "piano wire" into the machined slots, and then you could run (almost) any standard head gasket. On the other hand, if you have HEADS that are machined for o-ring gaskets, then you would run the (in the case of SBFs, # 1006) o-ringed head gaskets. These are two different processes and strategies, and are never mix-&-matched. You either do nothing, or you do the heads, or you do the block.
I'm a much bigger fan of the block o-ringing than the head o-ringing. You can run cheaper head gaskets, and you can sell your heads easier if they are not o-ringed, when doing an upgrade. That said, there's plenty of head gaskets being made these days that will hold alot of boost before leaking, you have to be up in the 18-20+ psi range before actually needing the o-rings. (vs merely wanting them because you can't nail down a safe tune and keep popping head gaskets).
Blownby makes a very valuable point about keeping the gaskets as the weak link or "fuse". Should anything happen, whether a tune too close to the bleeding edge, or a bad tank of gas, a broken valve seal, etc., it is easier and cheaper to replace head gaskets than pistons with holes burned into them.
ok so what you are saying is that the o ring was done to the head or the block right ? no other way done .... so is there any parts that i should be looking for like some pieces you said or how can i tell which has been done to the head or the block you know what i mean?
oh by the way when he built the motor he used those gaskets cause thats what they are i looked at them and they say 1006 on them does that mean that he o ringed the heads and not the block and for that matter the gaskets arent ever ususable correct? let me know cause the way it sounds is that he o ringed my heads cause he used the same gasket you specified ?
If the engine was built with the 1006 gaskets, the heads on your engine will always have to use those gaskets - the groove that is cut in the heads requires that gasket, period. It's a good gasket, just a little bit pricey - around $65 each mail order, $75 each at Advance Auto type stores - and no alternatives from other makers, as far as I know.
You can o-ring either the heads or the block (but not both). The purpose of the ring on the gasket is to compress into the machined groove of the o-ring and give a seal that is mechanically stronger than one that depends merely on torquing the head and block together.....
I think we are confusing Adam by freely interchanging the terms "o-ring" and "loc-wire gasket", as these are two different things. The main thing for Adam to know is that (as far as I know) once you are setup with the loc-wire gaskets, you must stay with them. If anyone knows if you can go to a different gasket after cutting loc-wire receiver groove, please speak up!
If you are asking "are 1006s reuseable?" the answer is no, they are not.Quote:
Originally Posted by adamf4i
cool i appreciate all the help guys !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
on the gaskets not being resusable is that beecuase it smashes the wire thats in the middle of the gaskets so that they arent the same anymore just curious thx again guys for the help