i wonder if it would be worth any power to switch from trick flow upper to the new box style trick flow upper and from my 75 mm throttle body to a 90mm.
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i wonder if it would be worth any power to switch from trick flow upper to the new box style trick flow upper and from my 75 mm throttle body to a 90mm.
I think a taller MT DR is more worth the $$ at this point. LOL :teeth:
whats MT DR?
The 28" tall Mickey Thomson Drag Radial. They should help you get to the end of the track before your rev limiter. Plus get your 60' down in the 1.4x's. Plus with your power get you in the single digit club. You will need a 15" rim however.
I will be running these this year as well.
oh haha...i get it.....wel that run was 2 years ago....i still had hydraulic roller cam and stuff and was redlining probably 6300 ish....now i have the shaft mount rockers and solid roller, some different porting so i am twisting it 7200 now....and i'm planning on buying M&H racemaster 275-50-17 drag radial(28") rod-06r i believe. that way i can still run my 17's.i have 3.27 's in the rear. i ran 4 10.66-10.80 runs leaving off idle(i don't know why i got a trans brake)after driving from the northern most town in Maine to Norwalk Ohio (1200 miles) with no overdrive and then back.
Well, then it is time to get some new numbers and update that sig. :p
"Get Er' Done."
Yeah, but i need to fix my cooling system problem, transmission oil leak, blower belt problems first. I really don't think i can afford to take it out this year. :(
That SUCKS.
yeah, so i have to watch the video of the 4 runs i made at Norwalk and the chassis dyno footage while it was being tuned :(
Well post'm up!Quote:
Originally Posted by mainestreetking
BTW I do think the box upper would better suite your combo. There's a guy on corral with a N/A 393 and he got one of the first ones out and I don't remember the number he made but I do remember It was a substansial improvement. I bought mine one month before they unvieled it. :weird:
by the way what psi radiator cap do you guys run @ this power level.i need to start figuring how to keep mine cool and keep it from blowing coolantall over the side of my car
i'd love to post them but they are off older style video tape.....how would i get that onto my comp?
I'm not sure. I don't have alot of computer savy. I run a 16 psi cap if i'm not mistaken.Quote:
Originally Posted by mainestreetking
16psi as well.
hmm...16 psi......isn't that stock? i think my engine builder put a 27psi cap on mine....something alot higher than stock anyway
well i just decided i'm gonna sell my 77/28 or 30 tooth cog, and my old 10 rib 7"/don't remember 2.75 or maybe 2.95 serpentine. I've had it with belt problems....either gonna go 8" 10 rib or 8" 8 rib with 3.2 ish?
i don't have a scanner but took a pic of one of my dyno sheets.....but i can't upload cause it's too big....how do i resize or downsize the pic so i can upload?Quote:
Originally Posted by regattacoupe
Quote:
Originally Posted by mainestreetking
send it to me. I'll shoot you my email. I'll hook you up!:teeth:
Here it is! Note this is mainestreetking's dyno, not mine.
Yes i was just looking at your dyno # in your profile BLOWNBY...real nice numbers......but why don't your torque and hp curves cross at 5252? You are gonna love the AUTO trans. I went to the track...on my street tires 275 50 17 Nitto drag radials.....625 rwhp(10 rib 2.75/6.87 making 10psi) tremec tko with 3,73 gears and ran 12's having to shift into 5th well before the 1320 line. then i changed to 3.27's and that didn't help anything as far as traction....then i put 77/30 tooth cog(17psi) and C-4 making 650 rwhp and couldn't keep a belt....so with the 17psi cog tune i re installed the 10 psi 10 rib stuff....drove 1200 miles to norwalk ohio ran 4 times (all 10.60's @130 with 1.9 or 2.0 60 foots,broken valvespring,running out of gear bouncing off the limiter hundreds of feet before the 1320 line. With my new combo i have an extra 1,000 rpm's and with a 28 inch tall slick i think it will go easy mid 9's. Crazy how 7 more pounds of boost only gained me 25rwhp while changing to the auto...lots of drivetrain loss but it's all about area under the curve so screw peak #'s.I'm guessing when i ran 10.60's with the 10 rib i only had low 500's rwhp