I just bought one off ebay fairly cheap because the bearings needed replaced.I've heard good things about them,just wondered what I might run into when installing.(clearance problems)
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I just bought one off ebay fairly cheap because the bearings needed replaced.I've heard good things about them,just wondered what I might run into when installing.(clearance problems)
LOL I almost bid on that.
I'm glad you didn't...:) The price from Vortech for the bearings were $59 each,I'm going to find them at a better price before I get them from Vortech.
Good luck, they were 80-100 dollars everywhere I looked. So I bought them from vortech. They last pretty good as long as you dont over pre-load them. If the upper bearing went bad it will probably need the upper pilot as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by Manns50
I have one. Hopefully you have the 8" renegade crank pulley to mount the support to. It fits with minimal mods on the 8 rib setup. There is a pic in my gallery.
Double click...sorry.
BLOWNBY,I have the 35 mm cogs that I thought would work with it because of the hole around the perimeter but after spaeking to Vortech they said it would not.I'm thinking of making it work,but unsre about clearance issue's.I have a Lincoln Mark 8 fan.
Yeah you'll have clearance issues. I ran a 8 rib belt with mine. The 35 mm cogs are equivalant to a 10 rib belt. Plus I had 3.5" fan where as the mark 8 is like 4.5 or more thick. I am going to 10 rib this year and will be moving my inlet outlet positions on my radiator and going with SS lines plus need a 2.5" fan setup.
Why does the 35mm cog be so wide ??
I had ASP machine my 50mm cogged pulley for grooves, and they were able to get 14 grooves on it ( ie a 14rib belt if it was available )
A 35mm wide pulley should be much less than that ???
Woops..Quote:
Originally Posted by stevieturbo
It is a 10 rib..my bad. The 50mm is the 14 rib.
If you look at an 8 rib it is 28mm wide. ie. 3.5mm per grove. so 10 rib = 35mm and 14 rib is just uner 50mm.
Too quick to post. Thanks
Either way he'll have clearance issues.
I spoke to Rick Anderson about the cogs and he said he has been using them for years.He said the key to getting them to last is belt alignment and tension.I ask him if the 50mm are any better at lasting and he said "not really it's all in the belt alignment."
You think the 50 mm would last a little longer,which I'm sure it would,common sense.But I do value his opinion very much.I also talked to another guy that is running a YSI with a 50mm and he said the same thing,you can run them on the street without problems as long as they are aligned properly.
Sure it can be done. I just didn't want to chance breaking a belt and burning my bood or cracking it. Plus if you have regular rubber radiator hose you can break that as well. Plus if you rip the teeth off a 35mm onth street your SOL. At least a serp will slip and still be there.
There are pros and cons to all setups. If you are running the cogs on a YSi, I'd get the 50mm. But like he said it can work with 35mm.
If you have room for a 50mm cog, then why not go for a 14 rib ? Even if belts are scarce, surely an 8+6 would work without too many problems ??
The prices ASP charged me to cut the crank, and make new blower pulleys was very good ( especially with our exchange rate to the UK £ )
I originally thought a cogged setup was the way to go. I havent even got mine running yet, and from what I can tell from various forums, they can have 1 benefit-no slip. But thats about it. It is mostly downsides and hassle.
Id go for the widest possible ribbed setup I can, and is what I have done.
What did they charge you to have this done? You actually cut grooves in your cog pulley's? Were they steel or aluminum?
My crank pulley was aluminium, 86T/34T 50mm cog. I bought a "KIT" from CAPA in Oz, and that "KIT" would not work. Either the belt was too short, or the pulley combo too large, and the belt simply would not fit. They offered me smaller pulleys, but what they offered would have spun the blower even harder. What they supplied was already too much, let alone offering something that went higher. I just realised cogged is a lot of hassle, and as mine is primarily a road car...simply not worth it. Most people said a very good 8-rib will handle 1000bhp. I wouldnt have a very good 8-rib as far as belt wrap is concerned. But now I have a pretty good 10 or 12 rib. Im happy now.Quote:
Originally Posted by Manns50
Cogged belts are available in very limited lengths which I only discovered afterwards. And what they provided me would never work, either for required boost, or belt lengths.
You can see my pics so far, and what my cogged problem was here. Click on the pic for next one, or go to the index.
http://gallery112848.fotopic.net/c332887_49.html
They couldnt offer me a sensbile solution either.
So, I had to sort a fix myself. Along came this forum, and ASP. They re-cut my crank 86T pulley with 14 ribs to give me a 8.25" for $95 and made me 2 new custom blower pulleys to suit, although these are just 12 rib, which were $85 each. One estimating 8-9psi, and the other about 13psi for my LS1
Now, to me that was an absolute bargain and solution to a major problem. In total, including shipping, they charged me about $300 including shipping back to the UK.
By comparison. It cost me, and I was ripped of by Royal Mail here, UK £45 just to ship the crank pulley to them. At todays rates, thats about US$83 !!!!!!!!!!!!! just for shipping one 8lb pulley. DHL quoted me more than double that price !!!!!!!!!!!!
For what ASP charged, there is nowhere in the UK that could even do that kind of work, let alone for that price. It was about a 4-5 week turnaround, but that included about 2-3 weeks shipping either way from the UK to US, and then back again.
I once had a cog belt break that cost me about $1500.00. When it broke it slapped up in front of the front tire and hit my 12" AFM filter. A piece of the belt and filter was sucked through the still spinning blower. Total carnage.
Ohhhhh Nasty :(
Any good stories,or people who like their cogs??? Come on now,it can't be all bad experiences.
I loved then on my HD s-trim. Very consistant with no problems. I just couldn't get the 35s to last on my YS. Maybe if I had spun it slower. One thing thou, When a cog belt snaps it tends to hang on to the crank pulley for a round or 2. It can crack hoods, tear out tranny lines and what-not. We it's works right they're great and sound great too.Quote:
Originally Posted by Manns50
Does Vortech make a 10 rib setup to use with the strut support? Their site does not show the holes in any of their pics,I think they use a general pic for all descriptions.
Yup they now make a 8" 10 rib crank. It is $189 from superchargesonline.com. Call vortech for the part number. I just ordered one up and saw it with my own eyes. It is now in the hands of regattacoupe going on his t-trim. I had ASP make me a custom set up.Quote:
Originally Posted by Manns50
It has the holes for the mounting plate I'm assuming?
I use a 30mm cog on my YS and was throwing belts like crazy, but after the new brackets its not been an issue, its all in the alignment. Here is a picture:
http://www.zacfields.com/crundergrou...ide%20View.JPG
and another
http://www.zacfields.com/crundergrou...20Brackets.JPG
Ryan
I should have stayed with the cog setup I guess,I just sold them on ebay and I'm going with an 8 rib Renegade setup with the strut support.8" and 2.95,hopefully I'll be o.k. with this setup and can make around 20lb with em.
Blownby,I just got my strut support in the mail and decided to use an 8 rib 8"/2.95 setup.I have to order my bearings for the strut support yet,but do you know if I will have clearance issue's with a Griffin radiator and Mark 8 fan? What type of fan did you use and does it cool well? I haven't mocked it up yet,but was hoping using the 8 rib setup will work without too many issue's.
You should be fine with the radiator. I had to trim some of the material off the inlet tube and shorten the rubber elbow as much as possible. It still hit the strut support but nothing major.Quote:
Originally Posted by Manns50
As for the fan you'll probably have issues. I only had like 3" max clearance. So I ran two individual 12" Zirgo fans. They seemed to work fine. Also you could use their one 16" and offset it so the motor is not in the way of the strut bar. I also ran this. Here is the picture:
http://www.superchargerhelp.com/phot...cat=500&page=1
Maybe this helps??
The two 12's drew a lot of juice though. www.zirgo.com
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ninesecsnake
What hood are you running with that mondo cooler?
What pulley's are you running and what belt size?That would save me a little time.Also how much preload on the strut and what is the torque setting for the bearing mounts?
I ran the 8" and 2.7", I think the belt was 58 or 58.5" Basically you put the bar on and just spread it till it starts to put tension on it. Hand turns only.Quote:
Originally Posted by Manns50
I assume you are asking the torque for the bolts that attach the bar to the pulleys. SC is tight you don't want it coming off. So is the crank one. I don't recall there being an exact torque number. You may want to call vortech.
I just found out the plate that bolts to the crank pulley,that came with this strut support,is for a 6.87 diameter??? I didn't realize they made such a thing.It has the lip that goes inside the pulley and you can tell it's a Vortech part.Has anyone heard of this?
DO NOT over preload the strut. That's how I found out how expensive the strut bearing are. I just tighten mine to where I can't slip it on and off any more and that's all. When I tore my engine down my front bearings looked great.
I wonder if it's for a cog?Quote:
Originally Posted by Manns50
What is the diameter of the inside lip on the plate?Quote:
Originally Posted by Manns50
Also the overall diameter.
I spoke with Vortech,and their guys are not the brightest of the bunch even when speaking of their product,but he thought it was for the 73 tooth cog.So qwickstang,your hunch was right.I'll have to measure the lip and get the dimensions,what sucks is I have to order the 8" pilot and it is $109.....it's always something!
What doesn't make sense it that it is for RENEGADE. They only allow 8 rib setups. I don't think they make different ones. Just one. Could be wrong.
I believe this is the Mondo version of the strut made for the 73 tooth cog.I ordered the bearings I'm needing and the 8" crank pilot.When I asked him how long,he said it will take 3 or four days to get it pulled and shipped and another four days for shipping....sheesh they are slow.
I measured the lip on the pilot I have and it measured 6".And from the center of one mounting hole to the opposite mounting hole 6 1/2".Anyone need this? I'll sell it cheap?
WOW must be for the cog. Learn something new everyday.
Well that not so expensive strut bar is becoming increasing more $.
That sucks. :weird:
I agree,I'll have $300 in it and you can buy a new one on superchargers online for a little over $400.This one will be as good as new,but still not so much a bargain any longer!
Sorry for the delay, I am running an HO Fibertrends 4" cowl trimmed around the discharge tube and the top of the igloo.Quote:
Originally Posted by BLOWNBY
Ryan