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I need to know what kind of fuel mods i will need , i only need stuff to run a safe boost for now. The motor is stock other then mac headers. Just have a few question if you guys could help me out.
1- what fuel mods do i need to run a safe boost
2- what is a safe boost for this blower
3- what size pullies will i need to run a safe boost level
4-what kind of power gain will i get with the blow setup over the stock set up now.[ going to do a intake manifold soon]
thanks for any help
A 255 pump, a good quality regulator( accufab, areomotive) and in my honest opinion at least 36, but you might as well get 42's if you want to get aggresive with boost levels. With a V-1 S and a stock motor i guess it all depends on you're nerves as far as how much boost. I know i've seen alot making 14 psi on stock motors with the 2.95" blower pulley. 52,000 rpms is the max speed.
don't you think 42's might be a bit much?..i'd go with 30's and a good fmu/tune for the street. there's no reason for the big inj. if he's keeping it tame.
i agreed with everything else...255 in-tank, ect.
word of advice- DO NOT GET GREEDY WITH BOOST LEVELS ON A STOCK MOTOR!
42's would be a bit much, IF he never ever wants to go any faster. How do you get a good FMU tune? I thought you have whatever you have with an FMU. Don't get me wrong i plan on running one on my 351 with 42's and the race pulley/race gas tune. With 10psi, offroad exh, and a good solid(not overly rich) tune, 330 rwhp is pretty normal with an S-trim as long as your not living in denver.
Whats your plans GN?
plains are to just pick up some more power right now, i would say my 89 conv is a 14'sec car right now. I will run it at the track but not a lot every here and there.
Looking to go low13's to 12's right now with out blowing it up, needsto last tell i build a new motor later, all and my motor has 120,000 miles hope this holds up to a few psi.
thanks
The V-1 S is usually @ 8-10 psi with a larger meter and powerpipe. I wouldn't worry about the miles as long as the car has been cared for. If you're planning on 450+ rwhp in the future it's cheaper to buy the good parts right off the bat. If not, the FMU may be the way to go for you then.........It wasn't 18 months ago i said "yes 7 psi on my novi 1000 H/C/I is all i'll ever need". Ever heard that before? :D ;) Yeah now I'm hoping for 380rwhp on the motor before i put the T-Trim on.
It would've saved me thousands to go for the juggular right off the bat.
If it was my car I would buy 42's and ditch the fmu. I agree with regattacoupe.
non-fmu setups are **** on the street...if you're actually going to drive it.
big injector/no fmu setups are awesome for race applications but they load up and bog and sputter on the street.
i don't think regattacoupe and i disagree on this...i just wouldn't run 42's on a stock motor bolt on blower car.
i have a FULLY built short rod 347 ( that makes 425 rwhp on motor...with 8:1 comp.) with a v-1 s-trim, powerpipe ect thats makes 575 hp in street tune with 30 lbs/inj. thats hard to beat in my opinion, just based on the fact that it still gets good gas mileage...and i drive it EVERYDAY!
My car last year with 42's idle'd like crap right off the bat....fouled plugs and the whole deal....after i got a powerpipe, play with meter clocking, timing, fuel pressure, and plug gap, and picked up a IST MAF adjuster, it idle'd like it had 24's or 30's in it. Alot of guys have picked up the Pro-m 80's and 42's and they run 100% right off the bat while others like ericbluecoupe(do a search this post may help) Tried everything I said 5 lines ago, and it still ran like crap. Turns out his MAF was cal'd slight off. He told them to take a little fuel out. He got it back and it ran like it should. MAF's are a crap shoot even though they should be plug and play. If it is rich and, or, surging, 99.99999% of all my experiance has shown the maf are the culprit. You leave no stone unturned of course but this hard for us to control without a PMS or the like.
bad93, I agree with you to a point. I think FMU's are pretty slick right up until 80 psi or so. They can do really wierd things for guys that try to get carried away with 19 or 24lb injector. They are great for the "blower only" car. I'm going to try one on my car that is going to make at least 600+rwhp but only because I have a wideband, 55 gallons of race fuel, and a wife thats wants a newer GT vert and a house in the country. ;)
Sounds like you have a good grip on your tune, whats your combo?
ok guys what is the safe boost, or i guess any thing can be safe if its tuned right.
It comes with the 8 rib Renegade stuff.........the big 8" lower and a 3" upper, how do i get my boost down to 6-8 psi or what every is safe.
thanks for the help guys
uhh...3.33" blower pulley might do it...you may need to order a 3.5'' from Ian @ SCH Racing (on the board)...i'm not real sure with the 8" crank and stock heads...i have the 8" but i'm running Edelbrock Vic Jr. 60cc heads so it's a little different.
if need i can just sell the pullies on it since there new and get other ones.
8" cranks sell like hotcakes so that won't be a problem. I reccomend stock pulleys for a stock motor for sure. I did the math for you and the blower will spin 55,000@6000rpms :eek: you don't need 18 psi do you? :D
FWIW,
My stock 351 short block and s-trim with 6.87/2.95 pulleys made ~530 rwhp (watch it atrimterror) at 13psi, with 42's, fmu, and base fuel pressure of 34lbs and 30* of base timing with 20* on top end. It ideled like a champ and I got 12-15 m/gallon. Barely tell it had a good size cam in it it idled so smooth. I was able to run 110 on the strip and 93 or 93 mix with 110 on the street with no problems with the BTM at 3.
It was tuned a little conservative (Lidio Alt Auto) for the street. Ran like that for four years with NO problems.
Point here is FMU 42's and a good tune make for very streetable set up. Now i have straight 60's and no FMU, and solid mount and still idles smooth. :D Kudos to lidio, he know how to tune a street car to run great om the street and perform well on the track.
I would also go larger injectors like 36's or 42's and get rid of the fmu. Fmu's are only a band aid. With a well calibrated meter like a ProM, you should have no problems with drivibility. I used 38's for years and just bought a set of 55's. Go bigger on the injector, you will not be sorry.
To actually toss the FMU, you will need a minimum of 42's. Since the price difference between 42's and 50's is very little, I'd step up to 50's.
ok , well what about a fuel pump, i have a 155 in tank now, my buddy said i can have his 190 in tank. can i put one of the inline pumps on top of the 155 or 190 and feed it good. or should i save for the 255.
i have 30# injectors and 6:1 fmu on my car and have run high 11s at the track(finally) car runs good on the street and lights the tires up at the press of the pedal. it is a full weight rag top