I ordered an 8" crank pulley from ASP, How much boost will I see with that pulley and a stock blower pulley ?
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I ordered an 8" crank pulley from ASP, How much boost will I see with that pulley and a stock blower pulley ?
Depending on the flow of those heads I'm gonna wager 13 to 14 PSI.:)
I'm sure a few will come in here and say 15 but I don't know.
Put her on a dynojet and lets find out.:)
Is it OK to run boost as high as 15lbs on a stock bottom-end like mine ?
It all depends on power output. You are going to dyno right? IF not you are driving a bomb.:eek:
No dyno and I would suspect there will be some drivability problems as well as rich lean and detonation.
Anyhooters if you get all that squared away and you are making 425 or more and you use that power a lot then I would be nervous from everything I have ever seen or read about stock blocks. Then again I am no expert frank and these are strictly my opinions.:)
Steve worries too much. Splitting the block is "half" the fun! LOL...
I'm only seeing 8-10lbs with mine, I have the stock blower intake tubing and filter (Disapointing). Oh and I have edelbrock rpm (1.90/1.60), typhoon intake, stock cam, stock bottom end and all the bolt on's.
Sinner that little K&N that comes in the kit flows more air than you think.:)
Sorry, when I put "disapointing" at the end I wasn't refering to the filter, I was refering to only seeing 8-10lbs of boost.Quote:
Originally posted by 468LC
Sinner that little K&N that comes in the kit flows more air than you think.:)
If your making the power you think it should than don't worry about the boost. That is a pretty good head you're flowing air through.
With my set-up: 30lb injectors and the stock FMU, What should I set the fuel pressure at for a starting point ? OR Should I raise the pressure and do away with the FMU ?:confused: :confused:
w/ 30#'ers and with a stock fmu calibrated for 30# injectors (6:1 disc), I ran 42 psi of fuel pressure (vac off) just for the 8" crank pulley setup. I added nitrous on top of that (80 shot) and only increased the fuel pressure by 2 psi and it screamed like a raped ape (ran great).
You can do it with the FMU trust me...
Frank you are not talking about using a stock paxton 12:1 FMU are you? That would be bad.
yes the 12 to 1 fmu. whats wrong with using that one ?
I suspect the car will run so rich it either will not run or it will actually wash the oil off the rings which can damage both bearings in the motor and score the cyl walls.
Frank if you do the math with 38 psi of base FP and then put a 12:1 on there you will be looking at 182 PSI of fuel pressure at WOT with 12 PSI of boost. It just ain't gonna happen.
ever heard of "gas washing" the motor? Put the FMU on and you will for sure.
If you want to do the FMU thing, get a 6:1 calibration disc setup for it, which is the correct calibration for your injectors.
30# injectors: FMU w/ 6:1 calibration discs, fuel pressure vac off 40-42+ psi (depending on how much your car likes/disklikes fuel pressure)
12:1 FMU w/ 30# injectors = soon to have a very light wallet :(
im running the stock fuel system with a adj fpr.. set at 35lbs with the vacuum off...and the fmu paxton gave me...am i safe
what are your mods? @ what psi of boost is this for?
Is you car stock with just a supercharger? or...?
Thanks,
Chris
468LC- is your MAM still in the engine bay? or in the fender? when you had it in the engine bay, did you have any problems with the car such as studdering?
I guess technically you could say it's half in and half out but the filter is inside of the fender and all the holes in the inner fender have been blocked off to keep the heat out of the fender.
The car runs fine with the filter in the engine bay or in the fender but when it's inside the engine bay the car will run for about 10 minutes and then lose about 50hp and become a total dog from ingesting massive quanities of hot air. In the fender it makes way more hot power when the engine bay is heatsoaked.
http://www.novipower.com/photopost/d...4Breather1.JPG
what kinda of piping did you use? i wanna try it too because my car seems to break up some when it heats up and im trying anything that i can to stop it from happening. thanks for the pic too!
ok boys.......mid july! you will induct me into the club.....i have a fishing trip for a week and then after that i will try the 8" -w-race gas-set it on kill and look out! does anybody have any suggestion where to set total timing with the 8"? I have no retard....( waiting for the right deal for a pms or an intercepterII)
Hang on I'll go get the close up pic.:)
thanks!
I can't find the close up at the moment but all I did was take a 3" long peice of 3"OD tubing that I use to make the dishcarge tubes. Then I took my factory MAF to throttle body tube and cut the 45* portion out of it. I put the MAF into that. I had to slightly enlarge the old hole in the inner fender. I tell you though this is harder to explain with precision than it is to do.:(
I would run a power pipe but I need the ability to put the filter back in the engine bay quickly for RAIN ops.
yea rain is no good for a power pipe right? cause water will get on the filter?
Here is a close up pic.:)
http://www.novipower.com/photopost/d...edMAF2-med.JPG
It is even worse for my car since my plastic wheel well liners are modified for the extended wheel base from my tube K member. I have been cought in the rain more than once and when she finally starts getting water on the MAF elements she starts to shut down.:eek: :DQuote:
Originally posted by green93notch
yea rain is no good for a power pipe right? cause water will get on the filter?
LOL at minor thread hi jacking.:bonk:
lol yea we are, but i need help too with my car. :( i just cant figure out what would cause my car to break up around 2k RPMs and sometimes under load. the only thing that i can think of is the heat from the blower cause its right up on it. you didnt use the heat sheild i see. do you have a bypass valve?
I have no issues with my power pipe when its raining. I do have my inner fenders in place tho.
GREEN93:
As for your car breaking up @ 2K rpm thats a strange problem.
You shouldnt be into boost yet so it cant be spark blowout, Does the problem clear up at all or does it stay running like crap?
it clears up sometimes but starts to buck (better way to put it) after getting warm? i wrapped up the mam with some heat wrap stuff, seemed to help a lil maybe? or it might just be me. do you think that it could be that i dont have enough ignition? vortech said for me to get the MAM in the fender. but if im going to do that i might as well get a power pipe too. but if that doesnt solve it, im going to be really disapointed cause i wont know what its from.
That 2k stutter is a leak in a sparkplug wire, 90% of the time.Quote:
Originally posted by green93notch
I just cant figure out what would cause my car to break up around 2k RPMs and sometimes under load.
should i just get new ones? i have a life time warentee on them.(bosch 8.7s?) had them on for about a year now.
Yes, get the fresh wires if no charge. First, try to find where the spark is leaking so you'll know how to avoid the problem with the next set of wires. I have seen anything from a small slice in a boot (the juice actually cuts thru the silicone) to a totally fried wire lying on an exhaust pipe. Sometimes the spark leak gets bad enough that you can spot it in the dark at idle, but it acts up the worst @ 2k rpm +/-.
Brent,Quote:
Originally posted by regattacoupe
does anybody have any suggestion where to set total timing with the 8"? I have no retard....( waiting for the right deal for a pms or an intercepterII)
Scary thought, running double-digit boost with no retard. Unless you cherish the act of swapping head gaskets :( I would start out in the beginning (in the heat of mid-summer) at 6 initial which will give you 22 total - might be able to sneek back up on 24-26 in better air. Keep in mind that your intake air charge will be much hotter as you approach 1 bar of boost, it is the increased heat in the intake charge that makes the flame front travel much more quickly than at lower boost numbers. Also want your a/f mixture nice and fat, like in the mid 10:1 region when you get into this much boost, to help keep things cool in the chambers.
As for the PMS/Intercepter deal, have you considered the tweecer or eec-tuner instead? The online support community for these is very good lately, and with the PMS priced so high it's not a big jump to go all the way to a standalone efi system like Anderson's Xtreme efi.
right now i have my timing at 8* with six pounds of boost. my 42lb injectors pour it on! so as long as i've got my timing cut back i would think that i'm safe. i'm not gonna put the 8" on till it cools off this fall. I have considered the tweecer and eec tuner but i haven't really checked into them. Do you have any experience with them? if so i'd like to chat with you!