I know the T-trim and the sound she makes but what do these cog pullies sound like. Im just curious what I should be hearing. Thanks 4 the help.
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I know the T-trim and the sound she makes but what do these cog pullies sound like. Im just curious what I should be hearing. Thanks 4 the help.
Very loud & ggggggnarly!!!
i am in the process of putting cods on my mustang but i cant seem to get them to work. What tensioner setup are you guys running? I and running the stock style tensioner with the lipped aluminum pulley in place of the facory one. I cannot keep the belt tight.
i am using cogs on mine. i do have the sch racing brackets which does not flex and helps keep the cogs on.
at the present time i am using the asp cogs. 75 crank and 32 blower pulley.
the tensioner i have came from sch and it has lips on it also. this helps keep the cog on . i do put the cog on tight..it has maybe only about 1/2 inch of play up and down. when it is all tightened.
good luck.
They sound awesome. Like a turbine engine to me. I run mine on a t-trim and have never had a problem. I am using the stock idler bracket with my cog idler. It is wider than the 8 rib idler as it is 35mm. Hope that helps.
Mike
Thanks 4 the help guys. Mejay racing are u saying u dont use a blower brace? I was hoping that the cogs wouldnt ruin that great T-trim sound. I heard cogs on a 03 cobra and it was to high of a pitch in my opinnion. Just the reg spur cut gear vortech is a hard sound to beat and I was hoping the cogs wouldnt take that great noise away. Thanks 4 the help again.
Mine don't sound that high. I know the sound you are talking about. I have a HPM adjustable blower brace that I just haven't had on yet. I plan on using it on my new motor but was in a rush to get ready for the last race.
I honestly love my cogs. Shoot me an email and I'll shoot you a video clip of my car on cogs.
Mike
mswalby@comcast.net
Wow...so i am not the only one going through 100+ dollar 35mm cogs.I'm running ys but i shear off the damn teeth......i've ripped the belt off a few times....once the belt was still on ......but with no teeth. I run Mondo bypass...and am not sure if it even works anymore....i hear the Super Mondo bypass is much better design blowing off air in all directions. So maybe my problem is bracket flex. I called Vortech and they aren't much help.."hello thanks for calling Vortech..duh."I've had an HPM for years but never installed it cause i have to fabricate...i guess it's time to try it. 77 and 30 tooth making 18-19 pounds.
if you are having bracket flex then you should try the sch racing bracket. that solved my problem of bracket flex. my problem now is the t trim is shearing the ribs off the belt. on the size, i am running a 74/28 right now. i was seeing 20lbs of boost.
the gates belts with kevlar i was using cost me about 75.00. i found that a mazda mpv timing belt was the one i needed but they really dont last to long. mainly cause it also being a daily driver. so i ordered the 10 rib system from asp and some extra pulleys from ian at sch racing. hoping the belts will last as long as the s trim i had before. good luck
i had the 10 rib setup from vortech at first.....loved it.....never ever had belt problems......just slipped a little...but thats cause nobody volunteers important information like....instead of running a 6.87 or 7 inch /whatever crank pulley.....run the 8 inch...allowing you to run a larger blower pulley resulting in more contact surface for the belt. so i went with this cog set up. they say the cog makes much more midrange power.....but i suppose with my 725 rwhp and god only knows how much torque.....being only street driven.....i can afford to lose some power and gain traction. i can light the tires @ a 100 mph roll.i mainly only street drive it.hmmm.....anyone wanna buy a cog set up? haha i don't know what to do.....i have a feeling bracket deflection isn't the problem seeing as the belt alwyas stays on....just pulls all the teeth off the belt.how come rnengade guys make over 20 psi boost on an 8 rib....i suppose the answer is that 8 inch crank pulley:guess:
They make a 10 rib 8". :D I have one. :party:Quote:
Originally Posted by mainestreetking
i just spoke to someone and he told me to go with the 8 rib renegade...what vortech calls their improved traction profile. according to this guy the company that makes the 10 rib is different than the one that makes 8 rib...and the belts for the 8 rib are much better...i think i will sell my cog and buy 8 rib 8" ,3.15"
The trick with the cogs is alignment. I remember Spence Hart helping a guy name Andrew with this same issue. http://www.superchargerhelp.com/show...&highlight=cog I know I made (and make) sure mine are straight. Never had a problem. As a side note I am using the HKS race blowoff with 75/32 and 75/29 pullies. With the 75/29 was seeing 16#s and haven't tried the 75/29 but prior owner was seeing 18-20 (through the mondo cooler).
Get the 10 rib. You can bead blast the pullies if need to make them the improved traction. That's really all it is. Bead Blasted pullies. That's what the renegade pullies are. If your going to but new pullies and have the room get the 10 rib.Quote:
Originally Posted by mainestreetking
I agree about the bead blasting. But isn't the real problem is in the blower pulley? I think if you were to use the RR pulley with a SCH bracket or any other mock up to get the belt 'wrapped' better around the pulley the problem would be sovled. Course I don't spin as high as most.
oh and i forgot to mention that the guy i talked to ( Rick Anderson ) said that the problem is 30 tooth or less blower pulleys.I really forget exactly which i have either a 30 or 28. My car is 90% street driven and makes way too much power as it is...so if i decide to go serpentine and lose a little traction thats fine. Right now i spin my 408 up to 7200rpm. I believe i've pretty much tapped out the ys at this point. Maybe i'll go serpentine...using the same blower rpm(63,000 ish rpm) and then have it upgraded to YSi next year. Weird how my engine builder,tuner never had belt problems on the chassis dyno. If i can fix this and my cooling system problem....and then maybe get my PA super leaker C-4 to stop leaking i'll appreciate and drive the car rather than thinking of selling it. I have a hrad time believing there is nothing i can do to fix my cooling problem.
:signs: i got the answer......sprockets off a 80's 10 speed bike and a chain off a husqvarna. really glad to have found this site and you guys.....i'm way up here in Maine and everyone i talk to about this is like....duh blowing a blower belt is one thing but when it takes your accessory drive belt with it and overheats your engine....not good
Yes the main problem lies in belt wrap of the SC pulley, but so does braket flex, drag of the blower, traction of pulley, etc. You can bead blast the SC pulley as well as this is what Vortech does in thier Renagde setups. Your right usually at step 2 or 3 you should be fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by MeJay Racing
Here is what I have found step wise to solve belt slip:
-1. Run larger Crank & SC pullies
-2. Use strut support or SCH brace to eliminate braket flex
-3. Try RR pulley or Bead blast SC pulley ( a lot of belt dust for a street car)
-4. Run a large 10 rib setup
a. bead blast if necassary
-5.COGS (last resort for street car IMO) can work fine though
I am on step 4 now of this process and hopefully this is it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mainestreetking
I agree to a point. If you've ever ran the longest belt you can with an 8" (8 or 10rib cause i don't think it matters at that pulley)crank you can figure out real quick where the slipping isn't happening just by looking at it. It's a no brainer. I chose 10 rib because I really want my car consistent, and no slip @ the blower pulley. I want to find a 3.33" blower pulley for my 8" crank and i'll be all set. Should be like a low 10 sec bracket car on the footbrake with that setup.
beadblasting the pulley doesnt help...just tears up the belt quicker,more belt dust.....been there done that.....and vortech does not bead blast there renegade or any other pulleys..the grey colered ones are hard coat anadized,just a different coating,and they are a different profile.....
the whole key with the small pulleys is making them TIGHT!!!!!...TIGHT!!!!....TIGHT!!!
Amen! I finally got a set of balls and really gave it to the tensioner and my boost numbers shocked me.Quote:
Originally Posted by swilldup
Quote:
Originally Posted by swilldup
Hmmm. Vortech told me they bead blast. Either wat they have a textured finish vs. a smoth one. And yeah, they create a lot more dust.