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hello everyone, a friend and i recently installed a novi 1k kit to my car. my car bucks after giving it some gas and will not pass about 2500 rpms. maybe its the fmu over fludding the engine? i didnt see any disks inside of the kit or FMU? timing is at 10* gap is at .040 on autolites 3924s. everything else is in sig. any help would be great. thanks in advance.
Vinny
Try regapping the plugs to .035 and if necessary go one range colder on the plugs.
BTW, are you running a bypass valve? Do a search for "Official Bosch" or "bypass" and you'll find information on where and how to purchase the bypass. If you don't feel like fooling around at the local hardware store, go here to purchase one for 4 times what you'd pay if you did it yourself: http://www.superchargersonline.com/p...ber=PAX1212600
do you really think that it could be the gap? how do i change the disk on the fmu? on my air/fuel guage its showing rich. i have no by pass vavle either, ill check it out. thanks.
It could be the plug gap or heat range. You really need a bypass valve.
To my knowledge the paxton FMU is not adjustable. So you'll either have to buy a new one ($120 or more) or use a manual boost controller to adjust the FMU (or upgrade injectors/maf).
would to much fuel make the car feel like its going to stall? i could hear the fuel pump in the back popping as if it seemed fuel related. or would blowing out the spark plug have the same effect? either way im regaping them tomorrow.
i had similar issues when i installed my 1000. i used my true flow tube from the c&l unit to get the filter off of the end of the MAF and down into the fenderwell. this solved all my drivability issues. also after getting it running ok i ditched the fmu. my fuel pressure is set at 40 with vaccum and my timing is at 13. runs like a raped ape.
so you think that if i put my C&L inside the fender ill be ok?
the way i told you that i have mine is with a walbro 255 pump and 24 lb injectors. i would leave the meter where it is, just try and get the filter off of the end of the meter. use one of you old elbows or something to see if that helps you. mine was bucking real bad under deceleration and idling. getting the filter off of the end of the meter cured my problems.
is the FMU calabrated for 19# injectors though?
Hey Green, did you do anything else (mod wise) during the install of the Novi 1k?
As the other's have stated you need to gap down your plugs to .035 but I don't think that is the major issue since you stated it won't pull past ~2500 rpm's, at that rpm there's not enough boost to "blow-out" the spark IMHO.
I have no experience with the C & L meters so can't really advise there.
Good luck & keep up posted as to what you find.
no extra mods during the install, i also have a 255 walbro fuel pump that i had installed before the novi kit so i know the pump is good. maybe the FMU is meant for 19# injectors though? could this be the cause of the problems? im going to call paxon tomorrow and ask them if thats the case cause if that is then thats gotta be the problem. if not then im going to do what slider said with the meter.
the fmu is intended for 19lb injectors. before my MSD install i would blow out the spark but it wouldn't happen until around 45?? rpm. that was with the plugs gapped at 45. i gapped them to 32 and it was ok. then i got the MSD 6A and opened them back up to 45. i would definately try to get the filter off of the meter. not only will it help you with your drivability issues but will also draw cold air in form the fenderwell instead of under the hood.
I was having a simialar sort of prob with my old Powerdyne. I too was running 24lbers with an FMU and at around 2700-3000 RPM I was getting a really bad bogg (wasn't making any power and just felt blah) but after 3000 the boost started kicking in and everything went alright. So is yours not going passed 2500 RPM or are you just not taking it passed 2500 RPM, also are you leaving a cloud behind you at around 2500 rpm?
A guy on here figured out a way to make your stock FMU fully adjustable, you may want to try searching it and trying it out.
Like 5150 said, spark blow out shouldn't be until higher RPM at 2500 rpm your not making any boost however going to .035 is still a good idea.
The kit is designed to work with both 19# & 24# inj. , I ran 24#'s with no ill effects other than being a bit rich when in boost. Since you did no other mods, I would have to agree with Slider Buck in that the issue lies within the meter, double check the elec. connection at the meter just for grins...
i don't see boost at 2500 but gapping the plugs down would eliminate that idea. I have mine @ .035 and my timing @ 8*. All you guys with higher timing are gonna get me in to trouble! I'm gonna turn mine up to 10 and see what happens. My C&L was real funny till i put it in the fender. Idle is much better.
alright well guys we're making some progress! car runs up to 6k but i get the bucking afterwards trying to just drive normally. i regapped the plugs to 30ish. im going to put the air filter inside the way and PRAY that thats the problem. ill keep you guys up on this... thank you all for ur help!
well its bad news now, car was running good now wont even go car just doesnt move when giving it gas, has a chit idle and sounds like its going to stall out. some of my friends say that its the o2s. i still think that its mass air related. any sugestions?
That thing sounds like it has all off the classic symptoms of a Mass air problem or unmetered air. Check all of you inlet hoses and vacuum lines. If you can't find any leaks, borrow a stock meter off of one of your buddies cars and try that.
Doug
deff was the mam. the filter tube had poped off and messed everything up
good! big improvement?
Just a thing I did to my air filter:
Well I have a 90mm MAF so in ordor to adapt it to a filter I need a adapter :) "I think I baught it from Accufab". Well the filter didn't fit the adapter. So what I did was took 4 nuts and bolts, drilled a hole through the rubber on the air filter, through the metal on the adapter and I put the bolt through and tightened the nuts "they are Lock nuts" I doubt they will losen on me.
Maybe a idea or maybe you can use this idea of mine to come up with somthing of your own to make it so your air filter doesn't come off
Mark...
yes very big improvement. but i still have some studder in the throttle, i was thinking since my heads like 18* timing and lower timing messed up the way the car runs, if i just bumped it up to 10* if it would work better and eliminate the studder i get. its like a bucking feeling. or do you think i should just play around the with the MAM and turn it around a lil?
the filter didnt come off the C&L tube but the C&L tube came off by the MAM. i connected the true flow tube with the C&L and have the cone filter inside the fender well. its up against the fender too and i think maybe that might have something to do with me getting the buckin?
is it a light throttle cruising throttle? this definetly pointing @ the maf. do you have a bypass? My car is real rich with no bypass and mine has a slight cruising studder.
yes at crusing speed and sometimes at high rpms it will studder just a lil, i was thinking about playing around with the MAM, its a real PITA. maybe its just the way the car is since theres so many curves in the tubing? idk...hmmm im going to the track today too to see how it does.
don't forget to check you plugs and your radiator after you run!
thats a good idea. ill do that to see whats going on with the car. i hope to get a clean run in. adding some octain booster as we speak :)