*LONG* New-B here w/ some installation/tune questions!

Hello,
Well, first of all some of you may know me already. I'm NeedaCobra (svtperformance.com), Fast90lxstang (corral.net) and Cammed90notch (stangnet.com). I'm buying a Paxton Novi 1000 for my 1990 Mustang 5.0 coupe soon and I had a few questions. First of all, my engine was rebuilt and now it has around 7k miles on it. However, when it was rebuilt, the previous owner (who rebuilt it) put hyperteunic pistons in it. So anyway, since this is the case, I'm planning on just going w/ 5-6#s of boost until I can buy a beefier bottom end. Well, I'm currently contemplating installing the Novi 1000 myself and getting a professionaly mechanic to tune it on a dyno. However, this poses a slight problem. The guy who is going to be doing the tuning probably is in Monroe, NC, around 1-2 hours from me. So, I was/am wondering if I could install the SCer myself and somehow run it safely all the way up to the interstate all the way to NC. Remember, I have new hyper. pistons right now and I don't really enjoy buying new shortblocks! So I want everything to be safe. Now, here is some information about my engine:
-rebuilt engine w/ around 7k miles on the rebuilt (still a 302 'cause it didn't need to be bored).
-stock crankshaft (it was polished though) ,connecting rods,
-new bearings
-new hyper. pistons
-CompCam
-stock heads :(
-stock upper/lower intake
-stock 19# injectors
-as far as I know, stock fuel pump
-every other stock fueling component
-BBK cai
-stock TB
-Under Drive pullies (I need stock pullies, right?)

So, basically everything on the engine is stock except for the BBK cold air intake, and a CompCam, and Under Drive pullies. It also has a MSD coil, aftermarket spark plugs, but as far as I know everything else is stock.
The transmission is an AOD just built in Jan. 03, and the rear end is a stock 8.8" but it has 3.73 gears. So, what does everyone think? How can I make it to NC safely to get it tuned w/ it install by myself (a novice w/ SCers).
As for my experience w/ cars, I've changed the heater core in my Mustang (15+ hours!!), changed the oil (easy), changed an altenator a few times (no problem) rotated tires, etc. I suppose I can handle this install (only thing that scares me is punching the oil pan, do I have a change of hitting the rotating assembly or anything, 'cause the intructions said something about turning the engine or something). Well, I hope this is all the info you need. Here is the car that it will be going in Lord willing:
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums...&postid=494149

couple things, dont fear the hypereutectic pistons, just get a safe tune. i have a 77k mile 93gt with hyper pistons. im currently at approx 8psi & am getting the 8" crank pulley for approx 10-12 psi this week. its all about a safe tune..............before punching your pan drill a small 1/8" hole & stick a long wire/nail through the hole to be sure theres nothing in the way, if so just rotate the engine till you clear in that area..............i did my own install & all my own tuning so far with great results. if your real worried just dont boost untill you get it tuned by your tune guy. im sure you'll be safe with the factory 12:1 FMU! back your timing down to around 8* initial.........
good luck..........
-justin

I need to buy a timing light. I've never checked timing on any car, but I've seen it done in shop class in 10th grade. You just plug one end of the light to the dist. and also unhook a wire or clip or something from the dist. to be able to adjust the timing, right? Also, what does "FMU" mean as I am new to the wording of SCs currently. Thanks for your help! :)

Nice ride there NotchKing!!

I don't know about the 1000 kit, but I can't set the timing on mine (2k kit) without taking the tensioner pulley loose. The brackets block my view.

Change your spark plugs (one range colder, .035 gap) and set the timing before you install the kit. Much easier that way. I see you have an aftermarket ignition. Closing the gap to .035 may not be necessary.

It took me and a buddy about 15 hours to install my 2k kit, but part of the delay were the crappy instructions that came with the kit. 2 big problems with the kit meant we had to backtrack and make adjustments.

In the end, however, huge difference in performance!

actually, if your unsure how to do these things then you can leave everything the same as you have it, then just drive carefully to your tuner. do not get in the boost untill it is tuned...........all your current setting wont effect anything if you drive normally!
-justin

Thanks
So I can just stay out of boost w/ it hooked up then? Like no flooring it, just drive like grandma :) I think I can probably do that, I suppose onramps and stuff may pose a problem but maybe not. How hard is it to instlal 30# injectors, 255 in tank fuel pump, and a BBK fuel regulator? For the 30# injectors and BBK fuel regulator I'll just have to remove the upper intake and the fuel rails, right? For the tank, I just leave about 1/8 of a tank in it, remove the safety staps, undo the wires (of course, removing the neg. battery cable before ALL of this) lower the tank, and install the new one (I have MM&FF magazines, and also 5.0 Mustang Magazines, and also a Haynes manual). I'm just sorta parnoid about removing the upper intake b/c the last time I tried to remove the TB, I messed up the TPS (I removed it, and it was sorta mest up in the first place) and somehow that cause coolant to get into my oil, the TPS sorta just started a chain reaction, but I didn't drive it w/ the coolant in the oil, I just had it towed to a trusted mechanics show and he fixed it, and charge me $300!!! grrr). I've never driven a car w/ a SCer, but I've read that you can just stay out of boost by not "getting on it," am I close? I'm planning on going w/ Twisted Wedge aluminum heads, and a Trick Flow upper and lower intake (black powdercoated Trick Flow intake, BTW) so that's why I'm going w/ 30#s, shouldn't that be enough? Thanks for ya'lls help and also the compliments. Sorry for another long post :shrug:

Oh, I need all stock pullies now, right? I don't know if anyone has answered this question yet, thanks :)

yeah, just dont lay into the throttle. you can roll into the throttle pretty good w/o boosting. just drive like a grandma like you mentioned. yes, removal of the upper & fuel rails is all that is needed for the injectors & AFPR. you may need to grind down one of your allen wrenches to get one of the screws, very easy installs there....

just so you know there is nothing you can do to the TPS that would allow coolant to get into the oil, that sounds a bit hokey if thats what somone told you! dont fear removing the upper, its really nothing. just keep track of your vacuum lines & have a fresh upper to lower gasket for reinstallation.........

Thanks. I'm going to use masking tape to mark the lines and also put my digital camera to use :) Also, after I reinstall the fuel lines/injectors, do I prime the system by turning the car from off to on 3x at 15 second intervals (that's what the Paxton manual sales regarding the installation of the SCer) :) I guess I'll prime it and check for leaks before driving, right?

yes, the idea behind the priming is to be sure the oil is making it to the sc'er. only run the engine for approx 1 min. after the install. then shut off & disconnect the oil feed line. check to be sure that oil is making it through to the blower. pull the brass nozzle out & blow through it to be sure its clear. then do this again after about 50-100 miles, then again every oil change.......

Can you or someone post a pic w/ [Caption] comments in the pic as an instruction, if you don't want to, don't worry about it, thanks :)

Hey notch king, I just finished putting in new injectors, just take your time, and it is very easy, but make sure all the old o rings come out with the new injectors, theres an o ring on top and bottom of the injectors. I had a couple stick into the fuel rail, used a screw driver to gently get them out I should of did the fuel pressure regulator right away, oh well
Good luck bud

Thanks for the advice/headsup :D

i meant old o-rings from the old injectors, not the new ones, sorry, my screw up

I'm not 100% positive, but you may need to get a different MAF sensor-one that is calibrated for your 30# injectors when you make the change.

yep you are correct, is it better to go with a pro m 75 or pro m 80 mm meter?

hehe, no problem did you have any trouble w/ the upper intake? My engine was rebuilt last year, so it shouldn't be stuck on there too much I suppose :)

Yeah, I was thinking about getting a MAF that's calib. for 30# squirters today, :)

no, came loose real ez. I left the throttle body on the upper, and just disconnected the linkage underneath, pretty ez, first time doing it for me

Don't you pop off something to disconnect the TB linkage? using a flathead screwdriver or something?

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Originally posted by NotchKing
Don't you pop off something to disconnect the TB linkage? using a flathead screwdriver or something?

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yeah, it's real simple. Just use a large flathead to pop loose the accelerator cable.

I bought new gaskets to replace the ones b/t the upper/lower intake, intake/spacer, and spacer/TB; just to be on the safe side. Less than 20$ to have handy in case the originals are shot. My originals were in good shape though. You'll need new ones if you're switching to larger TB.