New Novi 1000 user w/ a few ?'s

Hey guy's I'm somewhat new to the supercharger world, I've been around a few people with superchargers but I've always ran NA until about 2 days ago. My car runs 11:80's NA, what kind of results can I expect to see with a completly stock Novi 1000 kit, I know I need to change the gears in the rear, I"m currently running 4.56's in the rear, the car is a 5 speed what gears should I go to? My next ? is should I hook up the fmu since I'm running 30lb injectors? I'm running a completly stock computer w/ no chip. I know I need a chip burned, who burns the best chips? True Blue Performance is about 15 miles from my house, I know they burn chips but I have several issues with them. I'm leaning towards JMS chip corp. Has any one had any good results with them? And who makes the best fitting powerpipe? I have not cranked the car yet because I'm doing my final inspection tomorrow, I also plan on upping the boost, what would be the best way to increase the boost on a single belt novi 1000, if I change the pulley what size should I go to and what kind of boost levels will I see?

Thanks, Rusty

I'd still run the FMU, if you do a search there is a way to make it adjustable.
As for power pipe Anderson or Morpheous, the Morpheous is cheaper but they are hard to get.
On a single drive Novi your best bet is a F-150 crank. The crank I believe is worth something like 2 extra pounds and the power pipe is 1-2lbs.

Thanks, for the info, I have also read many post about the f150 crank pulley, but I'm lost and can not figure out how it will work, I thought I had to change the blower pulley b/c of the blower pulley and the surpentine belt that goes to the crank, I just can't picture how it is suppose to work and look. does anyone have any pics?'s.

Thanks, Rusty

Quote:

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Originally posted by allthrottle
I thought I had to change the blower pulley b/c of the blower pulley and the surpentine belt that goes to the crank, I just can't picture how it is suppose to work and look. does anyone have any pics?'s.

Thanks, Rusty

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I'm not really sure what your asking but this is how the single drive basically looks except I think there's some idlers added in the pic. Basically the larger crank pulley spins everything faster.
Picture courtesy of 5150lx
http://www.novipower.com/photopost/d...duced.gif?7791

Since you are already running 11.80s I think a 1000 is too small. A NOVI 2000 would be more up your alley.

Sinner, I'm sorry my fault, now that I see the pic is see that the novi 1000 is turned by a single belt, mine has the 8 rib belt that is driven off the crank, now that I ansewred my own question how can I increase the boost, I thaink that I'm going to have to change the blower pulley, if so what size of a pulley do I need to see around 8-9 lbs of boost?

thanks, rusty

powerpipe and the vortech renegade pulley makes 9-10lbs...i just found out last night!

Yah by your wording I thought you may be talking about a seperate drive blower anyways an 8" crank from ASP or Vortech plus a powpipe will put you at 8-10lbs. Don't forget about a bypass valve.

Here's a pic of the seperate drive.
http://www.novipower.com/photopost/d...6-med.jpg?8799

Thanks for the reply and the info, where can I get the ASP or Vortech pulley online, and what part# or what do I need to tell them the Pulley fits. Are you still running the stock belt?

Thanks, Rusty

Which by-pass valve should I get?

vor-4fa018-029 that is the summit part # for the renegade pulley it fits the Novi 1000-2000-aand all the vortech's for 8 rib....and that is the cheapest place i found and it's an hour from my house! D a search for bypass and that should tell you.

I just a viewed superchargersonline website they are selling the renegade pulleys in a package and offer the blower pulley in a 2.85,2.95,31.5,3.00 sizes, I've heard that the vortech pullies will fit paxtons, if so I don't mind buying the renegade kit in order to get the crank pulley, would you even change the blower pulley?

Thanks, Rusty

I wouldn't change it as it will void your waranty. i run the 8" renegade pulley with the stock blower pulley.

159 is a pretty good price for the peformance you gain!

Thanks for the reply guys you all have been a big help, are you guys running stock belts?

Thanks, Rusty

no i went to a 59 5/9 8 rib.......

No you need a longer belt (I think it's a 58") and I'm running a bosch bypass valve with no probs and you can find them pretty cheap

edit: sorry I didn't see your post regattacoupe

Is one by-pass valve better than the other, I see paxton sells one for 129.00, also is the pasxto supplied discharge tube pretty good or do you guys recommed another over the paxton, I've been looking at the vortech with the built in by-pass location,sinceI'm not running a smog pump, how do I retain the by-pass valve?

Thanks, Rusty

I don't know about the quality between bypass valves, I just know the cheaper one is working great for me.
The discharge tube is good now that they supply the aluminum ones.
What do you mean " built in bypass locations"? Our discharge tubes are essentially the same as the vortech ones, we have places for the bypass valve to plug in.
It doesn't matter if you have the smog or not, the bypass valve doesn't have anything to do with it. It plugs in between your discharge tube and intake piping (or powerpipe).

Thanks for the reply I once again answered my own ?. Today I purchased a Morpheus power pipe and the renegade crank pulley, now I"m going to purchace a by-pass valve. Now that I've got that all out of the way which rear gears are you guys running, 3.55's 3.73's or 4.10's my car is a 5-speed and I really want to run DR"S

You'll get different opinions with that qustion. I'm running 3.55's and they're working pretty good but I wouldn't mind having 3.73's (daily driver)

I see that your car is a auto, do you have the wide ratio gear set in the trans?

To run the full 1/4 and w/o a chip or tuner that allows you to exceed the 6250 stock RPM limit of the ECU 3.73's on a 26" tall tire will be about the most you can go.

I was smaking the rev limit (MSD at 6200) about 200 ft short of the finish with 4.10's, ~7-8#'s, 26" tires and ~117-118 mph. I dropped back to 3.55's in anticipation of running close to 15#'s on my Dart block 331, but sure do miss the "fun" factor of the 4.10's

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Originally posted by allthrottle
I see that your car is a auto, do you have the wide ratio gear set in the trans?

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Are you refering to me cause I have a 5 speed.

mine is an auto......i buzz down the road at about 2400 @ 55mph-w-28" tall tires and 3.55 rear....... I trap @ about 5400. More stall will fix that low trap rpm though

I'm leaning towards the 3.55's, what do you guys think? I still don't know what to do about the injectors, I'm running 30lbs now but I really don't want the hassle of an fmu, I've heard many horror stories about fmu's, do you guys think that I should just go ahead and install 42lb'ers or what would you guy's do?

I would do 42lber's cause I was in the same shoes and ended up doing so.
Is your car an AOD/5speed, daily driver, what?

Hey guy sorry it's been awhile since I've been on, my car is a 5-speed, I also need you guy's info on a intake, I'm thinking about switching to an edlebrock preformer rpm II the v-shaped one, what do you guys reccommend?

Thanks, Rusty

RPMII looks awsome, I would love to try one out personally.
http://www.50mustangandsuperfords.co...s/138_0305_rpm

Edelbrock cracks me up. Anyone can see in the pictures of the new intake that the RPMII lower manifold is the same old part #3820 as found with the original Performer and RPM intakes!

Interesting that their dyno test shows a 17hp increase just by swapping the upper intake, probably worth more on a blown app. Don't misunderstand, I think the new upper intake is wunnerful, I plan on adding an RPMII upper to my fully ported 3820 lower as soon as it becomes available as a separate part #. Until then, Edelbrock is probably hoodwinking plenty of existing Performer owners into buying a new 3820 lower to go with their fancy new upper intakes. I've also heard that Edelbrock significantly revised their Performer heads, improved flow on the exhaust side and made the chambers more efficient.

Well even if they do just bolt up to the old lowers, they are only selling them as a pair so you'll still be paying for the new lower.
I heard the same thing about their heads.