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Should have paxton sent me something that talks about timing my motor and what plugs to use and such? They didn't.
What plugs should I use and with what gap? Stock heads with crane hi-6 and a good coil?
Should I just set base timing at 10 and do the rest of the tuning with the pms?
What kind of oil should I use? and how often should it be changed?
Is there any other important knowledge that paxton might have left out? Let me know guys!
Brandon
Brandon,
Paxton does not send that kind of info out with their kits, maybe they are afraid of giving out bad advice :)
My suggestion:
Timing: 10 initial
FP: 42 base with vac on
Oil: I ONLY put Kendall 20/50 in my car, I am very anal about oil! I change mine once a month or so.
Plugs: I use Autolite 3923 because I have AFR heads, for stock heads use 23's.
I think that is just about it. Keep the car cool, and make sure it has lots of gas.
Ian
Thanks Ian, the feul pressure is goning to be a problem though, because I don't have the money to buy an adjustable unit. I thought I would just try to hold out until I bought a complete kit. Should I scrounge the money up?
Brandon
I agree with Ian ( only I don't run oil that heavy) I"m assuming you have a 5.0 liter Mustang with stock heads in which case you will want to run plugs that are at least one range colder. If I'm not mistaken your car came equipped with AWSF-42C Motorcraft spark plugs so you would want to try AWSF-32C's in there with Ian's gap recommendations (These are the same plugs Ford used in my Turbo Coupe). From my previous experience putting Vortech's on these cars, they always seeemed to run best with the Motorcraft plugs and didn't like stuff like platinum plugs. Autolites in the same heat range would also work well. You can get away without the ignition box if you like as your PMS will allow you to remove timing as long as you have the MAP sensor and harness for it. From my research a nice safe place to start would be to have it set to remove 3 degrees of timing for every pound of boost. Later on down the road you will probably find you don't have to remove that much, but it's better to start conservative to be safe. BTW: Your PMS requires that the timing be set on the motor at 10 degrees (according to my Crane Interceptor manual which is basically the same as a PMS). You can ad advance with the PMS
Oil is up to you in terms of grade but I would run a conventional oil for the first 500 miles for the supercharger to break in then switch to a full synthetic ( synthetics aren't recommended for new engines and such because they don't allow rings to seat properly because it is so good at preventing friction, so I think this would apply to the gears of your new blower as well)
Get a fuel pressure regulator. You're going to need it anyway so you might as well get it now. I would highly recommend you get a boost sensitive type like a Kirban or Aeromotive. Either one is an excellent choice.
Just noticed Ian didn't give a gap recommendation. .032-.035 should do the trick. Some cars like a little more than .032 but don't go over .035
How soon are you installing the blower? I will be selling my Accufab regulator (Aeromotive kit on the way) I would let it go for a good price.
Sorry I missed the gap Hawk has the numbers right on the money.
Ian
Brandon,
I will donate a boost sensative FPR if you want it. I had it on my car, but it wouldnt clear my TFS intake. It cleared the stock intake. You pay shipping
Ian,
Don't mean to ruin a future sale, but I think Brandon needs it and it sounds like he's out of money. I think we can all relate. I'm just trying to help a fellow NOVI owner.
Let me know
Doug
Hey man, that is great! I have NO problems with that, I think it is great! Mine will not be coming off for a while yet.
Thanks Doug!
Ian
Doug,
I'll pay shipping. Umm I'm going out of town tonight, but not until around 11 or so. Shoot me an e-mail with your phone number and I'll call ya tonight when I get home from work.
Brandon
Brandon,
I shipped out the FPR this morning. The shipping was only $4.85, so don't worry about it. Just remember this and pass a good dead along to someone else that needs it. Have a great day.
Doug
Doug,
Can't thank you enough for sending the fpr my way. I still haven't put my intake on yet, in anticipation of its arrival. Thanks again.
Brandon
I have a novi 2000 with stock heads. Do I just ask for Autolite 23's and they will know what I need?Quote:
Originally posted by Ian
Brandon,
Paxton does not send that kind of info out with their kits, maybe they are afraid of giving out bad advice :)
My suggestion:
Timing: 10 initial
FP: 42 base with vac on
Oil: I ONLY put Kendall 20/50 in my car, I am very anal about oil! I change mine once a month or so.
Plugs: I use Autolite 3923 because I have AFR heads, for stock heads use 23's.
I think that is just about it. Keep the car cool, and make sure it has lots of gas.
Ian
Thanks,
Brandon
I have .040 milled GT40P's and a Crane HI-6 and LX92 coil. What gap and plug should I run? I am currently runnin .035 and the spark is blowing out under 4# or more.
Also my car is stalling constantly and acting like it has no power. Now it is overheating then backfiring. It only acts like it has no power when it overheats. Methinks it's time to burp the cooling system! ;)
I also recommend Autolite 23's, had mine gapped at .034 running an msd 6btm and a blaster TFI coil. I ran 8 degrees initial.
I ran 23's on the 302, gapped at .32 with a MSD6AL, BTM and MSD coil. Worked great for me.
Doug
I like to run the Autolites with the shrouded electrode. I have had better luck with them at high rpms. I normally run an AR3934 or an AR3933. They are in the same heat range as a 24 or 23.
you guys brought this thread way out of the past. It seems like it was before christmas when I posted it. I agree with chris on this one. I like the autolites. Seem a little harder to mess the spark up with them.
Brandon
As far as the timig goes, you might want to check out a pretty interesting thread over on The Corral. It talks about setting the timing with the spout out, and leaving it that way in order to elimnate the variable of the EEC. I am not sure if it is the right way to go or not, but I am going to try it out when I get my 2k in the car next week.
http://www.corral.net/forums/showthr...postid=1844016
Fuel Pressure at 42psi with vacuum ON?? That's like 49 psi with vacuum off, 10psi more than stock. I've never needed more than 42-43 with vacuum OFF, unless it's time to upgrade the fuel pump(s) or injectors.
Just curious about the reasoning behind this recommendation. Also, if the car is fairly stock, I'd say 23's are too cold for that combo. 24's should work fine with that ignition/coil.
No one get offended now, just giving my $.02 on what's worked for me and many others down here in Texas.
I don't think anyone will get offended, everyone gets different results running different plugs. Its one of those things where you should start out with what has been proven to work then work your way up into a larger gap long as you aren't getting spark blowout. Chasing down multiple problems when you first do the install is a pain in the ***. Every motor is different.