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What do I do about this? I really wasn't expecting the discharge to not line up at all. :blah: Is the tube cut to fit? In the pic I have the TB end flush against the TB. Guess I could take some off the s/c end at an angle.
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In one of the recent 5.0 magazines they ran into this problem with a NOVI 2000 install. They simply took a sawzall and trimmed the pipe. In there case it was because the engine was slightly offset. Make sure you check to make sure everything is where it is suppost to be before you trim that pipe. If you have an aftermarket K member, that could be the culprit, if not something may be out of line. If everything checks out okay, trim it.
Thanks a million man. I did check out the motor mounts and just generallywhile under the car. Everything looks ok to me and the motor is tight. I'm going to make a pipe at work anyways pretty soon, I'll just hack this one for now and do motor mounts/make new pipe.
Thanks again
I hope you get your problem solved too. Something has to be up if you use to run lower FP. I know how you feel, running at the high pressure doesn't get to the root of the problem. Maybe get a new cheap gauge to see if the other is bad.
Wait a minute, the s/c is bolted to the engine. The engine could be all cockeyed and not cause this problem.
Just trim it, this was common even when they supplied that POS plastic discharge tube.....
Also you may need to clock the volute on the blower. This may help the problem as well.
Duh, yes please do this before you hack the pipe up, lol. Thanks Brent!!! Damn & I wasn't even drinking :D :rolleyes:Quote:
Originally Posted by regattacoupe
I had to cut mine quite a bit
What does that mean? :shocked:Quote:
Originally Posted by regattacoupe
On the head unit itself there are numerous small bolts that are located around the housing, they're the one's with the small triangular washers. Loosen those, and then rotate the housing so that the discharge will be in more of a 9-10 o'clock position. You're gonna more than likely have to remove the headunit from the bracketry.......Don't forget to snug those bolts back down. :D
Here's a pic that shows a couple of the bolts I was trying to explain.....it's attached.
Thanks alot man, the intructions suck for this kit. It says nothing about what to do as far as fitting the system, which is important because everything fits so tight. I did adjust the (clocking?) of the unit because the discharge wouldn't let the hood down. Of course I found this out after hooking everything up :blah:
Had to get some longer bolts to replace those long ones for the brackets, some of them were too short. Is this going to take the 84.4 belt that shows up for a stang w/ no AC? I have a Ford AC delete and stock pulleys.
After I got the whole thing in and tried a 83.5 belt (which is too short) I noticed that a bolt down by where the belt comes off the alt. and heads to the water pump was hitting the belt. The instructions said to put that bolt in from the rear b4 puting the bracket on, but the nut is thicker than the bolt head and hits the belt. Had to tare the whole thing down again to flip that bolt, I also ground the bolt head down a couple mm's to make sure.
As mentioned b4 I had to cut the discharge tube. Of course I did that before knowing about the clock adjustment, so the cut wasn't right. The coupler than came with the kit (pipe to s/c) no longer would work because of the big gap. Had to cut one end off my stock rubber intake tube to make a longer coupler.
I bought an idler pulley from a friend because I don't run a smog pump. That didn't work beacause that little support that goes from the alt. to the smog pump had nowhere to bolt to. Ended up gutting my old smog pump and got that taken care of. Sealed it real good to keep crap out of it and regreased the rear bearing.
Looks like when the motor torques (if it will even run) it's going to smash the MAF and filter against the inner fender. Guess we'll see.
The FMU wouldn't mount where they said it would. Ended up mounting it to the passenger side of the AC lines on the firewall.
Guess that's all the bitchin I have to for now, till I try to make it run tomorrow. If I can find the right accessory belt that is.
Thanks for listening and for all the help,
Toby
Ain't the rhelm of "bolt-ons" fun, lol. Well now you why most of say to toss Paxton's directions and just post up one here.......
You'll get it worked out, we want some more install pics!!
Let us know if ya need anything else....
I'm really frustrated that I can't use my new supercharger because of all the pinging. That's the way things usually go for me though :straight: Here's some pics, at least it whines a little and looks cool. Not bad for $2000.
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Did you remember to back your timing down?? Are you running 93 octane? What kind of plugs and gap? Do you have an aftermarket ignition?Quote:
Originally Posted by PNY PWR
LOL, I had left the Superchip in. That's what was causing it. Running good now.
I figured.
Good deal! Now go get a Vortech renegade 8" crank pulley!! :DQuote:
Originally Posted by PNY PWR
What's the deal with having to redline the darn motor to get any noticable boost? This is rediculous. For 2 grand I could have bolted on a nice set of heads and got more power.
What kind of boost are you getting? Mine doesnt build boost untill about 3500 in 3rd gear - due to that fact it is boiling the tires. Check your SC belt - it may be slipping. It needs to be TIGHT - about 100lbs of torque. Also make sure your boost isnt leaking out from your SC to the throttle body - ie- loose clamps or lines blown of under boost. What is the rest of your combo? You will only build boost under a load, so if your tires are spinning - no/ low boost. I went throught the same problems when I installed mine. Dont get frustrated. I am still working on my bugs and its been 3 months.....Quote:
Originally Posted by PNY PWR
155lph pump, stock headers, 2.5'' offroad h-pipe, 40 series Flows dumped, electric fan, 3.73 gears, timing is at 6*........Kirban AFPR, PF gauge, and PPI 180* Tstat awaiting install.
Retightened the s/c belt last night, it did seem to help a little. Do I use my torque wrench to tighten the belt? I think I saw 6psi@ around 6,000 on stock tach.
Pinging is pretty much gone now as far as I can tell. Wish I could get more timing out of it, 6* seems a bit low. Tried it at 8* and that was a no go. Have no idea what to set the fuel pressure at.
I thought only turbos were dependant on load for boost. But I did see the 6psi at a very high speed in 3rd or 4th gear, so maybe so.
I'm confused as to why it's running so strong before boost. I figured with the retarded timing it would be a dog. It's never run better. I'm getting good vacuum and when I hit the throttle it snaps up to 0 good and quick.
The fuel pump is fine until you really do some power mods like heads, cam ect........Colder plugs gapped from .030-.035 will help alot with detonation along with a 6AL. Atight belt is a must but don't go crazy. I've never used a TQ wrench but it's a good idea. SC's are not really load dependant. Although the only way you see boost is @ WOT. The reason is pulling like mad without boost is because the very you stated. The motor has "0" resistance and even though it's not building boost it makes alot more power. Save up for a Pro-M, 30-36-42 injectors and a powerpipe and you won't be disapointed. You'll have alot more low end.Quote:
Originally Posted by PNY PWR
I am running Autolite 23's gapped around .037 (The wire gauge has .035 and .040, .035 will go in and .040 won't). I've been checking out maf meters and injectors. I did see an MSD cd ingintion w/ boost timing retard, it looked like a nice one.
When you step up to 10+psi with the 8" crank you'll find the fuel pump, and espicially the lask of an MSD will either blow headgaskets or not pull past 4800 or so....The powerpipe is a 4" inlet pipe for the blower and it reduces(eliminates) any restriction before the blower. There is serious power, effiency and cooler discharge temps in this mod. The down size is you have to cut the fender and lengthen some wires or buy an extension for the MAF. Anderson makes the nicest fitting pipe.
The 8" pulley will go 10lbs? I thought 8 or so maybe.
I just got the AFPR.gauge and 180* t-stat in. I have the fuel pressure set at 39lbs w/ the vac unhooked. Had alot of surging at first when I'd plug the vac back in. Maybe the AFPR just needed to get settled in. It seems to be doing ok now.
Is that the right fuel pressure? or close? what does the stock FPR run at?
Well the 8" crank made 10 psi with heads, cam and intake@6000rpms so it might even make more on yours! Fuel pressure sounds fine.
The car is a beast now. The AFPR, and hi flow 180* t-stat really did something. Engine is running much cooler. I was able to bump the timing to about 7*, I'll go for 8* when I'm ready to fill up again and get some better fuel. She's pulling so hard, it's pretty sweet. This PPI 180* t-stat is great, it's working better than any I have ever used. I took the bulb temp. sensor from my Proform electric fan and worm clamped it to the chrome make-up tube on the top radiator hose from Paxton, fan's working alot better now too. I don't think it was getting a good reading smushed into the radiator fins like that.
I bought the new items from Mustangparts.com, 1st time I've used them. They seem to have good stuff and had a nice transaction with them. Just wanted to give 'em a plug.
yeah, you should have initial timing at 10deg. should be using autolite 24's not the stock 25's and gap the plugs down . mine are at .040. if you don't have an msd ignition yours should be gapped down more than that. 93 octane only.
10* timing ? that's a good one, I can't go over 6*. I have Autolite 23's gapped about 0.37. running 93 octane.
woops, didn't read page 2. 6* though?? maybe its ignition
Yeah, I'm not sure what it is. It would sure be nice to run a little more timing. I don't even know what to start checking or if there's a way to tell what is wrong.
I wouldn't sweat it. Take it to the dyno or the track and put it on a wideband. just because it dosen't look good on paper dosen;t mean it won't run the way it should. Every engine/car/combo is different then the next.
example: my friend has a bracket car with a 540. From that statement you would think "hmm car that runs a good 9 second pass". Actually the car goes 5.50 in the 1/8 mile and a good high 8 just about every pass and a best of 8.60 i think. All motor.....
Take it to the track and go from there.