like yahoo ,aim, msn stuff like that,
and is anyone very familar with stripping the entire engine bay of everything to paint , im tryin to do this and dont know wht im doin just wanted to ask some questions about this and that , LOL thx
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like yahoo ,aim, msn stuff like that,
and is anyone very familar with stripping the entire engine bay of everything to paint , im tryin to do this and dont know wht im doin just wanted to ask some questions about this and that , LOL thx
Like this:D
Yes exactly lol
that looks great
Basically I removed everything,
-decided what was going where in the engine bay and kept or plugged whatever holes necassary.
-Then weld in all the holes. The larger ones I bought some sheets of metal to fill them in. Grind down all the welds,
Fill in w/ "All Metal" and sanded that down.
Follow up w/ a glaze. Sanded that smooth.
I used rattle can primer and paint. I didn't have it professionally painted. If you take your time spraying it...it comes out great. Just be sure the primer and paint will mate. If not it will peel and bubble up. I found out the hard way:shocked: :angry:
You local paint shop will have this stuff.
did you replace all the brake lines with steel braided lines, was that pretty easy to do , and was it costly?
Just what was in the engine bay or right at the brakes. Yes it is expensisve, but it makes some runs easier since it is flexible and looks tons better. :D
All the long runs you want to keep rigid ss. You will get some brake line flex in long runs like to the back of the car etc. I wouldn't go really longer that 36" probably.
i would just want it under the hood , just braided lines u can see LOL
wht all is expensive about it , just curious isnt the lines 5 dollars a foot , wht else do you need to buy
wht all is expensive about it , just curious isnt the lines 5 dollars a foot , wht else do you need to buy
It's not a ton more expensive...maybe $100?? You need the line and the ends or you can buy prefabbed lines as well. either way it is more. As most of the ends are like $8-$10 or more depending on the angle?
:cool:Quote:
Originally Posted by adamf4i
ok how do you remove the big black brake thing , are the bolts under the dash inside ?
Yes there are four nuts to remove behind the dash. I had my dash out when i removed it. It may be impossible to get to the top two nuts off with the dash in???
It can be done with the dash in, but it ain't fun. Just need some patience and be sure you don't drop the nuts behind the carpet.
I answered one of your problems......not sure on the bolts as to where they go though?:confused:
Here are more pics as you wanted. However, I am not sure I have exactly what you want. All wires that were for the front of the car like the lights and what not were ran outside of the engine bay. I only kept the necasaties in the engine bay and they were all ran with the main engine harness thus ou see no wires any where. Plus I redid their locations in the car and behind the dash. I also plugeed and filled the two original holes in the firewall where the wires came out of and ran all wires out at one point neatly tucked behind the engine by the heater core so you don't see all the wires. To do this I had to extend some ofthe wires that came from the driver side of the car.:angry:
Here are some pics ofthe firewall and the plgged holes and what not (pass side).
driver side stuff
Some complete shots
Let me know if you have any particular questions or want to see something in particular.
http://www.superchargerhelp.com/atta...7&d=1141313654
where did you run your main harness, and injectors harnesses, and everything that went to the drivrs side, like stuff goin to starter silonoid , and brake booster, and WW motor,
The injector harness came out from behind the motor next to the heator core connections. You can see it in the last picture in post #21. The injector harnes just isn't conected! The oil pressure sender, water temp sender and wiring for the water pump also ran in theose lines!Quote:
Originally Posted by adamf4i
The main harness, not sure which one your talking about,..... The lights were ran through fender wells, mass air connections came out by the pass door area and ran to the masss air through fenderwell. Whatever I needed on the driver side like starter solenoid and coil etc. was pulled back into the car and ran out throught the driver fenderwell also.
Remeber stuff that was on the driver side harness that was needed in the engine bay I extended and ran inside the car and came out together with the injector harness! It was a pain in the *** but well worth it.
I don't have a WW motor any more...never used it or saw a need for it! That is why they make Rain-ex!:teeth:
All vacuum lines were routed into the cowl and reorganized in there.
You will have o decide on what you ant and don't want and remove accordingly. You will also have to be somewhat creative in deciding how you want to route everything. I may have one of the cleanest mass air meter car engine bay wiring setup!
cool thx, ya it does look pretty clean u dont happen to have any close up shots of this stuff u just explained do you , or might be able to take some of in the fenderwells , i was thinkin bout havin to extend some wires , lol
wht do i need to do before i can take those camber plates or whatever off the top of teh strut tower , , do i just need to put a jack on each side of the a arms
and lower it down slowly after i unbolt them
im gettin somewhere lol http://profile.myspace.com/index.cfm...endid=29296307
got it all stripped down now
scroll down pics are at bottom
how did you cut that lip out that was on teh firewall
i missed these for some reason...I will respond later around 6:00
Have to run for now!
Yeah just put a little tension on the A arm and undo the strut, then you can lower the a-arm and take the spring out and undo the plate.Quote:
Originally Posted by adamf4i
The spring may need a spring compressor to get out smooth or go back in depending on the lenth or spring rate.
It is a pain in the ***.....if you do it you best to leave about a 1/8" section of it and feather it in w/ filler or what not. As there are three sheets of metal that come togeher and are spot welded together. If you cut it smooth or near smoth the will separtae and the metal is so thin it is almost imp[ossible to weld it back together and closed.Quote:
Originally Posted by adamf4i
I would just leave it unless you really want it out and want to deal with all the extra work.
ya so that would work then leaving a lil edge and kinda bending it down and welding it and just makin it smooth, that way it would have alil hump there but wouldnt have that lip u think that would be ok?Quote:
Originally Posted by BLOWNBY
Don't bend it down, just grind and cut it down to about 1/8 or less, just go slow, then weld it together an then grind it smooth the feather it in with filler. Make the blend run a great distance and it shouldlook smooth.
im kinda confused but ill figure it out once i start cuttin it down