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382 ci, Custom Ross pistons 8.7:1 CR, Edelbrock CNC'd 215cc heads, 224/230 on 115LSA cam, 1.7 YT rockers.
Stock LS6 intake and TB.
Custom YSi bracketry + 12 rib drive ( belt wrap isnt great though, but its working great so far )
It was making 15psi at 6000rpm, through a DIY built intercooler
These runs were in approx 93 degF ambient temps, with charge temps around 104 max
97 RON pump fuel only ( should be equivalent to your U.S. 93 PON fuel )
This is on a Dynapack hub dyno. I did have some issues getting a smooth run, as around 4500rpm, the dyno had a habit of going daft, possibly due to the torque, and my Torsen diff doing strange things ??? This run was with less timing, which produced a smooth curve with no problems.
It was like the diff was cycling drive left to right etc causing the dyno to go nuts.
It was a Dynapack 3000, which units are rated at around 400hp each
Runs were in 5th gear, as 4th exceeded the dyno's torque ratings.
AFR's were pretty consitent 11.0-11.5 throughout at WOT
FYI...I was mph 135 and doing 10.0x's. Now your MPH may be a little up due to ***** 60' but none the less.
So are these flywheel # or rear wheel #'s.
06-15-2006, 08:34 AM
BLOWNBY
Also you are picking up some very good mph in the last 1/8 mile...so definitly making power up there! Where are you shifting at? Also have you tried to short shift to get into 1:1 gear sooner and let the beast pull! May help a little, may not????
06-15-2006, 07:26 PM
stevieturbo
The figures are measured at the hubs, which bolt to teh dyno units. So it is a RWHP figure.
Must admit, I was reccomending to a mate with his Novi2000 Viper to short shift and get into 3rd as soon as possible, to assist with traction, but I never even tried it myself.
I will do next time though.
Generally I'm shifting a little over 6000rpm, and pulling to around 6500/6600rpm in 4th across the line.
MPH's were consistent all weekend. , circa 136-138mph, unless I messed the run up.
I just need to pin down the first 2-300ft or so, and there is massive room for improvement in my times.
I need to get a set of MT DR's, but I'd hate to buy the 255/50x16" and find I cant make them fit.
The 245/50x16 Nittos do foul ever so slightly when under load as it is at the minute.
Next up is a Snow kit....that should at least see me pull 140+ anyway :D
06-15-2006, 07:37 PM
BLOWNBY
The snow kit will be a huge improvement as you can add a bit more timing as you'll have alot more octane plus some cooler charge temps!:D
If you can get a set of MT or Hoosier (now make DR's as well) in something at or just a hair smaller than the 245's they'll fit and definitly have better 60'. Many are getting 1.6x's consistent and even down to low 1.4x's on 17" 275's. :shocked:
So I'd imagine the 245- 16" would defintly net you about 3-4 tenths easily!
06-16-2006, 07:32 PM
stevieturbo
For the events I want to run at, they dont allow the Hoosiers. They are DOT approved, but as far as "street legal" treys go, they are kinda taking the piss, as no way could you use them safely on the road.
I think I'll just buy the 255 MT DR's and be done with it, and cut/modify whatever I have to to make them fit. It will probably be worth it in the long run. The taller tyre will also be very worth it I think.
I'd be happy with a 1.8s 60ft.. I'm still on a stock T56 too, so dont want to get too greedy.
06-16-2006, 08:50 PM
BLOWNBY
As for the Hoosiers....they make a DR now....I think your thinking the QTP which are not a DR rather a DOT bias ply.
These are new from hoosier and are just like the MT DR's. They may just have a different size. Both the MT DR and Hoosier DR are awesome!
06-19-2006, 06:58 PM
stevieturbo
Just ordered the 255/50x16 MT DR's. I'll probably have to do a bit of cutting to get them to fit, but I know it will be worth it.
Bloody expensive, then again, we get ripped off everywhere over here. They should be here in about 3 weeks or so.
