I ordered my Vortech SQ S Trim!

So after a few posts trying to decide what to do, I decided that boost was my best option. I got a really good price from www.superchargers4less.com for the complete kit and the 30lb recal FMU disk. I can't wait to get it! I wanted to do a n/a 347 stroker but to do it right to make the power I wanted (400+rwhp) was going to cost too much. I'm going to keep this thread alive as I get questions along the way and to keep up to date on the progress.

Now, what size punch do I need for the oil pan? I believe I need a 3/8" ntp tap which I should have in the garage. Baically I think I bang it out with a hammer, then put some grease on the tap and slowly work in it and out. I've tapped stuff before but nothing important like an oil pan http://forums.stangnet.com/images/smilies/eek.gif

What other precautions should I take for the pcv line? I read about guys sucking oil thru the pcv in to the intake. I read soemthing about putting a 1 way check valve in the pvc line. I guess so only air can flow from the manifold thru the pcv, NOT from the pcv back into the manifold?

I don't plan on using the BTM, what I was going to do is lock out the timing and keep the spout out. What is a safe degree to lock it at, I was thinking around 17*. I plan on seeing about 8lbs of boost so my guess is 17* is super safe.

For now I plan on keeping the 30lb injectors and FMU (I beleive its a 6:1) I will dyno to be sure the a/f is good. I would like to see around an 11.5:1 a/f across or maybe a touch richer up top. To be safe with my stock block, I will keep the rev's below 6000 rpm. I figure with the a/f good I should see 450rwhp safely. Down the road I plan on buying an Anderson PMS and a 42lb or 50lb injector. I think 50's can be used on stock eec, right?

Also, should I upgrade my balancer? My shortblock has 120k miles.

Mike

Without a good tune, you will blow your engine up, pay the money and get it tuned by a pro......


joe

Well, if you are going with the 50lb injectors you will need the PMS. My car would barely run with 42 pounders. I hate FMUs i find them very unreliable.

I'm sorry, but have to disagree....Without an intercooler, 17* is ALOT!!!!! On pump gas, without an intercooler, you need to go down farter down than that and work your way back up. Detonation is the enemy in a boosted engine, and there two ways to combat it: you can go rich on the fuel, or intercool. Going rich on the fuel, does have the long term effect of basically "washing" down your cylinders, thereby causing premature ring and bearing failure; will also require more frequent oil changes, and it will contamine and thin out the oil, VERY BAD DEAL!!! I know none of us are made of money, but please, take my advice, intercool it!! Go to snowperformance.net it's owned by Matt Snow, a SUPER good guy, who is running a really hot 93 COBRA of his own, and he has a dual stage setup on his. About a year ago, I watched him run a 10.9 with drag radials at 5,000 feet!!!! This is a car set up for road course, not drag racing, he just on a whim, went down to the track with some sticky tires to have a little fun. I'm gonna go snow, becasue I can return to running FULL TIMING!

Please, please, go real conservative on timing, until you intercool it; I just don't want to see you, or anyone destroy their motor. You've gone into a completely different world now, the world of blowers; NONE of the rules of natuarlly aspirated apply!!

I can tell you from experience; I've done the hot n/a setups..the dual carb stuff, all that, and NOTHING compared to a proprerly setup, fuel injected, blower car.

By the way, I'm a Vortech guy, am currently running a V-2/SQ on my modular motored GT, and love the difference it has made!!

Keep in touch, let us know how it goes, okay?

joe

By the way, 8 pounds of boost will only tide you over for about 6 months at best!!!
Boost is addictive, I'm at 8, and can't wait to get to 15 psi !!!!!!

(BUT YOU HAVE GOT TO INTERCOOL ON PUMP GAS!!!! GO TO SNOWPERFORMANCE.NET!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!)

I'm just looking out for ya all, as I hate to see an engine blow up, when it could have been saved!!

(look I know I'm new here, but I speak from experience!! anyone disagrees, please respond, I'm never to prideful to learn new stuff!!!)

joe

Joe, I def appriciate your help and dedication. When I said 17*, I meant 17* total. Now with the BTM, I will set the base timing to about 10* and set the BTM for 1.5. With 8lbs of boost, thats 12* being pulled out from the typical 26* total you typically see with stock timing. Thats about 14* total at full boost.

I will check out your link, thanks. The SQ just really lightened my wallet if ya follow me, so I can't afford all the goodies i'd love to buy. Thanks for the help though.

Any more tips? What about the smog pump, I know im supposed to use it, but can I still bypass it? Isnt it more of a way to make the bracket more sturdy or something?

The best way to deal with that smog pump, is to keep it on, and get a smaller pulley for the supercharger!!!

All I'm saying is, be a little conservative on timing until you can cool that air intake charge!!!

I've seen alot of cars that have all the legal smog stuff, and A/C and still make HUGE power!!! I've got all of that on mine, to include hi-flow cats!!! Proper fuel delivery, and tune will make up for any drain those accessories might make!!!

My opinion, leave all of that stuff on there, and let the boost do it's job.

joe


P.S. life's too short to go without A/C!!!!!!

Congrats on your purchase Mike you'll like the SQ, i know i do the car is very sleeper like. On the oil pan i used a set of punches from small to large then i used the hex end of the 3/8 punch to get the final size, after that pack the flutes of the tap with heavy grease then work the tap in a little, back out, clean and repack with grease, keep doing this untill your done, take your time and all will go well. Don't fear this task it's pretty easy. Get a turbo coupe PCV valve along with the checkvalve and run a 3/8 line from the filler tube to a filter and in to the power pipe inlet. Timing is going to be different for every car! compression,heads and the combination of your other parts will determine how much timing and fuel you'll be able to run/and or need. Put it on a dyno! If you have a stock balancer, it will not hold up, mine would'nt hold up N/A. Your on the right track wanting 42-50's and a powerpipe with a PMS. Hope this helps and happycharging.

Sounds like you made the right choice between blowers. As far as making the engine last it's not really the boost that kills the engine but maintanence(or lack there of) and of course the tune.

I AGREE!!!! It's all maintenance!!!!! On my modular, the stock balancer is working fine, but like Jorge said, the SBF probably requires a fluidamper or equivalent.......


joe

P.S. keep in mind that Jorge is making ALOT of power too!!!

Jorge, what pulley are you runnin??? 8-rib setup??? how much boost are you showing?


joe

Joe i have the stock 8rib 3.33/6.87 pullies, @ 5800rpm i'm seeing 10lbs with my powerpipe.

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Originally Posted by blueoval92

Joe i have the stock 8rib 3.33/6.87 pullies, @ 5800rpm i'm seeing 10lbs with my powerpipe.

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I am curious as to what your combo is for your hp rating at 10 lbs; I am currently seeking the means to make similar power at that boost level.

Here it is: 306= SQ S-Trim/10lbs 8.7-1 compression, dished JE/SRP pistons, Crower rods, Comp Cams blower cam, ported Edelbrock Performers, TFS trackheat intake, 70mm TB, 83mm MAF, powerpipe, 42lb injectors, 255lph intank/255lph inline, stock lines and rails, and no FMU.

Nice setup. I'll probably keep the stock shortblock components; just gonna freshen it up with a Summit rebuild kit or something, and .030 over it, and the combo I'm thinking of is;

AFR 185's
Systemax intake (II)
can't decide on cam
10 lbs through an S trim

Comp has some awesome Nitrous/Blower grinds nowadays but if your on a budget slap the TFS#1 or the #2 in there and hang on.

I am thinking about just pulling the spout and locking the timing @ 17* total. Its 17* initial now, so I might just run no spout because I feel its safer than relying on the BTM. I do agree that running the BTM will make it run better off boost though. I'd say 17-19* total no spout should be a good start, right?

Whats your thoughts on not running the T rex? I have a 255 high pressure in tank already. I'll be running 30's with the FMU. Can i get by w/o the T rex you think? It'll make the install go a lot easier. When I go to dyno it, if it turns out I need it, I can always install it.

How did the oil pan punching and tapping go for you? Any leaks with the drain?

I never finished the install so I dont know if it leaked or not. I pulled the blower and I am selling it. Tapping it wasnt a big deal honestly. Put a little silicone on the threads of the fitting.

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Originally Posted by Grn92LX

I never finished the install so I dont know if it leaked or not. I pulled the blower and I am selling it. Tapping it wasnt a big deal honestly. Put a little silicone on the threads of the fitting.

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Sorry to hear that you are selling the blower... Hopefully not on bad terms?

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Originally Posted by Grn92LX

What other precautions should I take for the pcv line? I read about guys sucking oil thru the pcv in to the intake. I read soemthing about putting a 1 way check valve in the pvc line. I guess so only air can flow from the manifold thru the pcv, NOT from the pcv back into the manifold? Mike

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I'm not sure about the details of the plumbing, but the PCV is a check valve. Will it still be a problem?