Is there a trick to getting the bottom race out? I am going to have to take apart my head unit soon to shim it and I know that race is going to be a *****.
Also, can I get the specs for turning torque and distance the impeller needs to be from the backing plate?
Both races in my SN2000 literally fell out into my hand. They are basically free floating secured with a pin to prevent rotation.
I believe that you want to end up with 45 inch/pounds of torque required to turn the input shaft. It's been a while so you should confirm this figure.
Do a search on this forum for answers to your other questions.
-Aggressor
I have looked for the specs. Mine aren't going to come out in my hand...
Call Craig Conley
(760) 740-0954
- Aggressor
You can pry them lose with a screwdriver under the race and above the bellevue spring.
Or turn it upside down on the workbench and tap the case with a rubber hammer, then it sure falls out.
Greets, Marco
'91 Chevy 496SS, Edelbrock Pro-flo 2 injection, alu. GMPP heads, blowercam, coolmist water injection, turbo in the works.
*VIDEO* http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ZOdXg0TOdw
no way in hell mine were falling out- since i didn't want to pry on them, i pulled the pins, and heated the smaller plate directly on the stove burner (slowly), then flipped it upside down over the sink and used the kitchen sprayer to chill the race, shrinking it out of the hot aluminum.
The other race in the rear housing got chucked in the oven for slow steps up in temp to avoid any warping, then to the sink...
-rick
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