Okay... so then assuming that I do the breather/open PCV, should I have some sort of catch-can or something so that I don't get oil seeping down the tube over time?
Okay... so then assuming that I do the breather/open PCV, should I have some sort of catch-can or something so that I don't get oil seeping down the tube over time?
Don,Originally posted by WA2FAST
Okay... so then assuming that I do the breather/open PCV, should I have some sort of catch-can or something so that I don't get oil seeping down the tube over time?
I am running a K&N breather on my pass. valve cover along w/ the pcv valve the way ATI recommends..T fitting above the valve, then one side goes to the valve cover, the other side vented to atmosphere.
So far you can see a little smoke coming from the side vented to atmosphere so you know its positively pushing pressure out, and I have a little oil on the K&N filter where the oil seems to be pushed from the valve cover.
I would love to be able to "even out" the pressure inside the crank case, however it seems to be a difficult task to accomplish.
DAN
1995 Rio Red Cobra #2021
Dart 331,AFR185,D1SC,RPMII upper/lower
OLD
GT40X, E303, D1SC 13psi, 3 core intercooler, Magnaflow Catback, Hooker equal lengths, Mac Prochamber, 3.73, Auburn, Moser 31 splines, Pro-m75, MSD 6AL, TKO, Spec Stage III, Larocca Tuned
10psi 11:1 a/f= 464rwhp 431ft/lbs
11.9@123mph @13psi 1.9 60'
hp? tq?
Moderator of General Tech
Thanx Dan... I think that I'll be fine running it with a breather and open PCV... that's how yours is... the two of yours just happen to have a tube between them, but they are both essentialy open to atmosphere. I guess I just didn't think that the crankcase would actually move air by itself.
It's all about the blow-by.
So then blow-by is essentialy what is going to be ventilating the crank case then?
Ok.... here is where Im going to genereate some controvercy... :)
Go atleast one heat range colder than the stock plug. Preffereably two. Then gap the
plugs down to .025 - .028. What you will find is as the tune up gets close (done with a chip) the ignition will start to give out up top. You will not necessarily feel it, but you will see it in the graph. You will deffinately see it going down the track. I beleive the plug I ran is Champion RC9YC (part number 438) gapped at .025 or so. If you arent going to run a custom chip, set your base timing at 24deg and leave the spout connector out. Adjust your FMU (using a bleeder and a restricter) so that the A/F stays as close to 11.5:1 over the WHOLE curve. If you get a big dip around 4500 you will lose a ton up top. Try that and let me know your results.
Michael Freedman
The car is going to be tuned by Don Walsh... I have #42's, Univer, and no FMU. As far as the plug goes... do you not like the Autolites? Do you really think that I am going to need to gap under .030 with only 8lbs of boost (for now)?
Don,Originally posted by WA2FAST
The car is going to be tuned by Don Walsh... I have #42's, Univer, and no FMU. As far as the plug goes... do you not like the Autolites? Do you really think that I am going to need to gap under .030 with only 8lbs of boost (for now)?
as a comparison of what Mike was saying about gapping the plugs down low. I was running 9#'s of boost with the AGSF32C's which are one range colder than stock. I had an MSD 6AL, MSD blaster coil, MSD 8.5 race wires, Accel cap and rotor and was forced to gap my plugs down to .30 or else the car would run like crap! Even w/o boost the car would stumble and run like it was being choked out. As soon as I gapped down the plugs from .35 to .30 all was ok.
BTW Mike, I noticed that when I gapped the plugs down to .30 from .35 the car felt stronger, I assume this because the spark may have been getting broken up, which was causing the car to have a miss fire. I am thinking when I change the plugs before I race again I am going to try a slightly lower gap, around .28 just to see how it affects the cars driveability.
Dan
1995 Rio Red Cobra #2021
Dart 331,AFR185,D1SC,RPMII upper/lower
OLD
GT40X, E303, D1SC 13psi, 3 core intercooler, Magnaflow Catback, Hooker equal lengths, Mac Prochamber, 3.73, Auburn, Moser 31 splines, Pro-m75, MSD 6AL, TKO, Spec Stage III, Larocca Tuned
10psi 11:1 a/f= 464rwhp 431ft/lbs
11.9@123mph @13psi 1.9 60'
hp? tq?
Moderator of General Tech
Alright... now I am back to being confused... should I go with AGSF32C, or Autolite 3924? I beleive the gap issue has been taken care of... thank you guys, I really appreciate it. I think what is best (told to me by the pro's on this site) is that I should gap my plugs between .025 and .028, but which plugs I guess is the question now.
Thank you guys so much in advance... I really appreciate the help.
Don,Originally posted by WA2FAST
Alright... now I am back to being confused... should I go with AGSF32C, or Autolite 3924? I beleive the gap issue has been taken care of... thank you guys, I really appreciate it. I think what is best (told to me by the pro's on this site) is that I should gap my plugs between .025 and .028, but which plugs I guess is the question now.
Thank you guys so much in advance... I really appreciate the help.
either plug will work fine, I just eliminate the guessing and go with the plugs recommended for the Gt40X heads, the 32c's. They will work fine and honestly I can't tell you if they are any better/worse than the 3924's as I've used both..never noticed a difference.
Dan
1995 Rio Red Cobra #2021
Dart 331,AFR185,D1SC,RPMII upper/lower
OLD
GT40X, E303, D1SC 13psi, 3 core intercooler, Magnaflow Catback, Hooker equal lengths, Mac Prochamber, 3.73, Auburn, Moser 31 splines, Pro-m75, MSD 6AL, TKO, Spec Stage III, Larocca Tuned
10psi 11:1 a/f= 464rwhp 431ft/lbs
11.9@123mph @13psi 1.9 60'
hp? tq?
Moderator of General Tech
Thanx a ton, I really appreciate it.
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