Question(s) for those who've rebuilt their SN's...

[antoine]

Harbour freight tools have them for 20 bucks

[winfred]

one like this http://cgi.ebay.com/Proto-Dial-Torqu...item3a6703a48a i scored my snap on 150 inch# torque-o--meter used in good shape for around $40, i have a 1/2" unit too that works great and they hold their calibration well, i get about 6-7 years of shop use out of it between rebuilds before the head slips

This is going to sound like a real 'novice' question, but what do you guys use as an inch-pound torque wrench?

I'm asking because the bolts that hold the input shaft to the ball carrier (which is where I'm starting the reassembly process) need to be torqued to 50 inch-pounds. How are you guys ensuring that torque level? Beam-type torque wrench? Clicker-type? Any particular tool brand you guys favor or use?

All the torque wrenches I've found at the usual retail outlets are all foot-pound units. I already have two foot-pound units, one 3/8" drive and the other 1/2" drive. I just can't seem to find an inch-pound wrench.

[winfred]

sn92 here, new balls and used impeller shaft from cund lasted a whole 2k miles

so if anyone was wondering what would cause a loud buzzing noise from your sn89, this is a pic of the old impeller shaft out of mine lol

[Michael]

Little update on my rebuild progress...

I got myself an in-lb torque wrench yesterday! Took advantage of the Father's Day sales and got myself a nice clicker-type torque wrench from Mastercraft (the Canadians will know the brand well. Exclusively sold through Canadian Tire, these are very good tools and reasonably priced). It was 50% off, so I got it for just over $60. Not bad at all. Check it out:


The Mastercraft Maxium line is the "professional grade" of the Mastercraft brand of tools. They are almost up there with Snap On in my opinion, and definitely better than any shade tree mechanic would ever need. Most of my tools are Mastercraft. And 3/8" drive means I won't need to use adaptors to step down from a 1/2" drive wrench. Nice.


Adjustment range between 30-250 in-lbs is perfect for rebuilding a Paxton ball-drive supercharger.


Lifetime warranty... can't beat that. If anything goes wrong with the wrench, I can walk into any Canadian Tire store and get a free replacement on the spot - no receipt needed and no questions asked.


Even comes with it's own plastic case too! Sweet. (I know, I know... most torque wrenches come with their own storage case. Hey, it's a new tool and I'm excited!).



The calibration tag that came with the wrench shows this is a fairly accurate unit too!


So now it's about time to start the rebuild!

But before I do, I have to ask a couple of quick questions:

1. The assembly drawing that's floating around this site shows that Loctite (or Locktide... whatever the hell that is) is supposed to be used in various locations. Which Loctite did you use? Did you use any Loctite on bolt threads (ie. between the drive shaft and the ball carrier, on the impeller bolt, etc...) and if so, which Loctite?

2. What kind of assembly lube did you use? Did you just coat the various parts in Type 'F' fluid, or did you use a specific prelube? Did you do this BEFORE or AFTER establishing the proper turning torque for the impeller?

[pavement pounde]

Always install the parts lubricated in F type oil not dry.
I use locktide on the bearings for extra securety they will not spin.
I do not use threat locktide on the bolts exept for the impeller bolt. I really do not want that bolt to come lose at high rpms.

Locktide is a sort of glue that keeps bolts from comming lose (threat locktide)
There is also Locktide for flat surfaces, I use that for the bearings.