Ceramic Bearings & Balls (Silicon Nitride)

[SN60 Boost]

I have installed the ceramic balls and bearings and made some tests. Blower sounds quiet and turns very smooth. I did not replace the output shaft or large races. They show the usual markings from normal rotation forces. There was no increase in blower boost levels. Levels stayed the same. Steady 5 lbs of boost at 5,000 and holding 6 lbs at 6000. That was expected and pretty much a given. No gauge slippage noted. Same pressures however as with the steel balls. Blower temperatures after tests (engine off) showed radiator at 178. Intake runners 175 to 180 depending on runner. Cylinder head 195 to 180 depending on location. Blower casing at 130-135 depending on location. A zapping of the fluid (via the dipstick tube) showed 130 degrees. Hat bonnet temperatures around 115 degrees. Don't know how much the blower temperatures are under driving load conditons. These were taken after street tests and after engine shut down. I regret not making a steel ball blower case temperature test before the conversion. Sensor was a HF infared device.

I like the conversion and do not regret the high dollar investment. Should last forever now. Blower rotational inch lbs was 30 to start rotation. With the steel balls it was closer to 35 inch lbs. This is about as scientific I can get at this point.

[SN60 Boost]

Forgot the pictures.

[Duke]

Are you running an oil cooler on it? Id love to put those balls in my vr-4 along with the races!

[Duke]

My vr-4 gets hot even with an oil cooler on it! If I even take it out on a 75💖 degree day it better not be into town and it better be at least 55 mph I'm going!

[SN60 Boost]

No oil cooler and at this point I don't believe it will be necessary. Pretty sure it is not slipping internally based on steady pressures on the gauge and not getting above 150 (guess) in temperatures when boosting. Might actually be cooler than 130 because on shut down there is heat soak creep of temperatures. Perhaps I should add an on board temperature sensor to the blower casing to see. I've heard the VR-4 is hot because of the very high pressure plate loads on the steel balls. So, yes, ceramic balls nitride would be a big help on those units and that should allow less pressure loading requirements I would think. Perhaps you can be the test mule on that theory.

My fluid is nonsynthetic B & M Trick Shift.

[Duke]

Craig at p.w set my vr-4 at 44 in lbs rotational torque not a whole lot more than the standard setting of 33 to 35? ln lbs aint nothing I torqued little screws on scope mounts to 22 in lbs.

[Duke]

I want the sythetic drive balls and bearings can you put the part numbers for the drive balls up please?

[SN60 Boost]

Don't have a part number. You have to contact the manufacturer. Here is a link. They offer the correct size in Grade 5.

Colin ChenSales Engineer
XZ Bearing Industry
www.ceramicballbearings.cn

[zray]

No oil cooler and at this point I don't believe it will be necessary. Pretty sure it is not slipping internally based on steady pressures on the gauge and not getting above 150 (guess) in temperatures when boosting. Might actually be cooler than 130 because on shut down there is heat soak creep of temperatures. Perhaps I should add an on board temperature sensor to the blower casing to see. I've heard the VR-4 is hot because of the very high pressure plate loads on the steel balls. So, yes, ceramic balls nitride would be a big help on those units and that should allow less pressure loading requirements I would think. Perhaps you can be the test mule on that theory.

My fluid is nonsynthetic B & M Trick Shift.

i only have about 150,000 miles combined experience with the SN-60 units spread over 25 years and 5 or 6 GT350's and 289 K codes. If you are looking for longevity from the blower head unit, then an auxillery cooler is a necessity, not an option. You are on the right track with the B&M Trick Shift. However, the synthetic version will give you superior protection and wear resistance.

I used a cooler and the synthetic B&M exclusively in my last vintage Paxton equipped '66 GT350. When I sold the kit I had about 8 years & 75,000 on it. I sent it to Craig for inspection and refurbishing as needed. He reported It didn't need it. The balls and raced were in unusually very good condition for the miles and usage. He did replace them as a matter of course, along with the new seals, but he emphasized that it was only done since the new owner was located far away, and for peace of mind mainly.

Kits that dont have superior cooling don't last half as long.

Z.

[Duke]

Well I have to rebuild my vr4. I thought about a new blower, I looked at the vortech forums and no thank you! 52000 max r.p.m but then a guy from vortech said don't go no more than 45000. So I'll keep my ball driven vr4 and make 11 psi

[Duke]

Also I truly want to go with the ceramic balls in it so how are this working out for you??