ProCharger and Nitrous?

[PaLiAcH]

anyone running a ProCharger with nitrous??

im looking to install a NOS Dry Kit with my Procharger to cool the intake temp... (small charge, 35-75 shot)

has anyone done this? any tips? anything i should consider, etc? mounting location?

thanx in advance!



p.s. i do have a forged bottom end, a P1-SC upgrade to D1-SC, 3 core intercooler, intake P and P'ed, and stage 1 cams...

thanx!

[SnakeIs]

With a forged bottom end I'd go for it, just make sure you monitor the AFR when on spray and pull a little more timing out for the spray to keep cylinder pressure down.

[PaLiAcH]

yep a forged bottom is there. i will have another program that is activated when the nitrous arming switch is on...

anything else?

thanx again..

[WA2FAST]

You should be good with a small shot, but be careful not to have the nozzle too far away from the t-body. I have seen people blow their motors because of the time delay of the nitrous feeding through the tubing into the t-body. For instance. If you are making a run at WOT and youa re done with your pass and get off of the gas, but there is still a bunch of nitrous in the tubing because of the time that it takes to get to the t-body and it is now closed... you're in for a treat. You have to be careful with that in a nitrous setup, but especially careful in a nitrous/blown setup.

[PaLiAcH]

should it be rite before the t-body or right after? i mean closer to intake or the other side of tb...

[WA2FAST]

In theory running it as close to the air filter as possible will effectively cool the air charge the most, the problem with that is that there is a nice delay, so as soon as you let off of the gas, the nitrous is still getting sucked through and you get the picture... NOT good to spray at anything less than WOT.

I would tap in as close to the t-body as possible, some even tap in on the t-body's opening as long as the nozle does not interfear with the operation of the throttle plate. I would mount it either on the tube that attaches to the t-body as close to it as possible, or in the t-body itself before the throttle plate.

[PaLiAcH]

cool thanx!!

should i use NOS flare jets? 1 or 2? or 12? :D

[Blue Beast]

how about get the NX kit and SPRAY THE INTERCOOLER :)

[PaLiAcH]

by the time the nitrous gets to the engine, its powerless... isnt it?

[Four eyed stang]

Originally posted by PaLiAcH
by the time the nitrous gets to the engine, its powerless... isnt it?

Nitrous isn't power.
The power is in the fuel(gasoline) and the Oxygen is the oxidizer.
The nitrogen acts as a stabilizing spectator after the heat rips the N20 molecules apart.

In the absence of fuel(gasoline), the oxygen will oxidize whatever other fuel is available. At the temps in the combustion chamber, there is a lot of metal(fuel) to oxidize!

I think he meant to spay the N20 directly onto the outside of the intercooler to cool it.

[PaLiAcH]

ah OUTSIDE the intercooler.. i c...

powerless was the wrong word... how bout "not as efficient" refering to spraying before the intercooler

[Blue Beast]

it just cools the charge of air going into your intake...which equals more power......i think

[zthisstang]

how about get the NX kit and SPRAY THE INTERCOOLER :)

This will be a very good way to get allot of good power but dont fill with NO2 use CO2 ( CO2 is allot cheeper). This is as cold as NO2 under pressure and can be used in the same system. Dyno numbers have seen 40 to 65 rwhp gain by doing this. The 3 core intercooler takes the hot copressed air and condenses it to about 30 to 45 deg above ambiant temp. You freeze the intercooler with NO2 or CO2 you can get the dischareg temp below ambiant and will be more dense with allot of pressure making the 40 to 65 rwhp gains

[ScaryGT]

You should be good with a small shot, but be careful not to have the nozzle too far away from the t-body. I have seen people blow their motors because of the time delay of the nitrous feeding through the tubing into the t-body. For instance. If you are making a run at WOT and youa re done with your pass and get off of the gas, but there is still a bunch of nitrous in the tubing because of the time that it takes to get to the t-body and it is now closed... you're in for a treat. You have to be careful with that in a nitrous setup, but especially careful in a nitrous/blown setup.

I'm not running NOS currently, but that was great advice WA2FAST. A newbie probably wouldn't of thought of that!

Good catch, Ralph

[tokes]

I don't know why the hell everybody says they want to spray a bit of nitrous for the "cooling effect". If nitrous had such a cooling effect and reduced detonation, why do you need to take any precautions for nitrous? Why run race gas, colder plugs, and pull timing if nitrous is some magical gas that will decrease your motors likelyness to detonate? If you spray nitrous into your blown motor the IAT reduction will be minimal, and any decrease in IAT's will be compensated for tenfold by the increased cylinder pressure and temperatures from the nitrous. If you want to prevent detonation and cool down IAT's on your blown car, an alcohol/water injection kit is a much safer idea. An alky kit keeps you away from detonation, and lets you run more timing and boost on pump gas.

Dyno numbers have seen 40 to 65 rwhp gain by doing this.

Key word here being dyno. It shows results on the dyno, where you have no ambient air flowing over the intercooler core. The only reason I could see needing an IC sprayer is if you have a very small intercooler that gets heak soaked very rapidly, or if you're running a ton of boost that heats up the charge a lot more.