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Thread: Okay guys...traction?

  1. #1
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    Okay guys...traction?

    I haven't got my ignition yet, soon. I really want to run this thing at the track after I throw in the ignition. BUT... as it is right now, I'm having major traction issues through 3rd. Keep in mind, my wife is absolutely tired of me spending money on this car, so a suspension is out. I was gonna run the nitto DRs, and maybe get some lower CAs at least. It is sitting on sportlines with stock shocks/struts (I know, getting better ones soon), welded subs, tower brace, all stock sway bars 3.73s, and stock 95 cobra wheels (17x8.5 I think) with 255 45 17 michelin pilots that are fried. This is my street car, and I want to keep it that way for another couple years, but I'm planning on seeing track time too, and I want this thing to hook, at least better then it does now, without breaking anything (hopefully). Any suggestions on tires, air pressure, parts to get and in what order, and launching techniques would be greatly appriciated as always. -Rob

  2. #2
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    DR's would probably help you out why not see if you can borrow a friends? Then work on your suspension (i.e. upper/lower control arms, shocks, struts).

    Good luck and let us know how your track visit goes!
    AOL IM: OneBadAzzGT

    1998 Supercharged Geee Tee (Powered by 2000 SOHC Engine)

    Mods: R470W auto PA valve body/shift kit/deep trans pan, Hayden trans cooler, 2800 PI stall, Vortech "S" trim supercharger, Bullitt intake, Cobra twin 57mm TB, D&D Coilovers, Maximum Motorsport Caster/Camber plates, Lakewood 90/10 strut & Lakewood 50/50 shocks, AFM PowerPipe, FMS Alum Driveshaft, 42 # injectors, Walbro 255 intank fuel pump, Walbro 255 inline fuel pump, Steeda Heavy Duty Upper & Lower Control Arms, Steeda Full Length Subframes w/cross-brace, Cobra R 2 1/2" cowl hood, HPM (Zinc) driveshaft loop, MSD DIS-4, Pro M 80mm MAF, K&N Air, Weld Prostar drag welds, 31 spline Moser axles, 3" Moroso studs, McGuard lugnuts, SVO differential, "Downs" rear Girdle, FMS 3.73 gears, 180 deg thermostat, Fan by-pass switch, FR500 Steering Wheel, Phantom white gauges throughout car, Mac longtube headers, Mac offroad "H" pipe & Borla XR1 catback.

  3. #3
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    Oh yeah, I am getting a driveshaft loop, but who makes a scatter shield for my T-5z? And how fast before you have to have a cage? Thanx fellas.

  4. #4
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    Originally posted by 5LVENOM
    Oh yeah, I am getting a driveshaft loop, but who makes a scatter shield for my T-5z? And how fast before you have to have a cage? Thanx fellas.
    You will need a roll bar:

    NHRA: 11.99 or better.
    IHRA: 11.49 or better (someone correct me if I'm wrong on this and going from memory)

    Sorry, not sure on the scattershield for your T-5.
    AOL IM: OneBadAzzGT

    1998 Supercharged Geee Tee (Powered by 2000 SOHC Engine)

    Mods: R470W auto PA valve body/shift kit/deep trans pan, Hayden trans cooler, 2800 PI stall, Vortech "S" trim supercharger, Bullitt intake, Cobra twin 57mm TB, D&D Coilovers, Maximum Motorsport Caster/Camber plates, Lakewood 90/10 strut & Lakewood 50/50 shocks, AFM PowerPipe, FMS Alum Driveshaft, 42 # injectors, Walbro 255 intank fuel pump, Walbro 255 inline fuel pump, Steeda Heavy Duty Upper & Lower Control Arms, Steeda Full Length Subframes w/cross-brace, Cobra R 2 1/2" cowl hood, HPM (Zinc) driveshaft loop, MSD DIS-4, Pro M 80mm MAF, K&N Air, Weld Prostar drag welds, 31 spline Moser axles, 3" Moroso studs, McGuard lugnuts, SVO differential, "Downs" rear Girdle, FMS 3.73 gears, 180 deg thermostat, Fan by-pass switch, FR500 Steering Wheel, Phantom white gauges throughout car, Mac longtube headers, Mac offroad "H" pipe & Borla XR1 catback.

  5. #5
    To get any type of traction on the street, your going to need a drag radial. If you have a 17" wheel, Nitto or BFG has what you need. I highly recomend it! Without one it's really dangerous driving on regular radials when you try and punch it your rear end will want to come around and this can lead to unfortunate accidents.
    You Must Be Fast, Cause You Were Flyin When I Passed You!


  6. #6
    Senior SCH Member Brcuda's Avatar
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    Hmmm

    BFGs drag radials is the only way to go they get better traction than Nittos, but they do not last as long.
    393 stroker with YS-trim Vortech :-)

  7. #7
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    Okay, I'm planning on getting the Nitto DRs, but what about the rest of my post? C'mon guys.

  8. #8
    Senior SCH Member Brcuda's Avatar
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    Hmmm

    When I running that kind of hp. I used HPM uppers and lowers with the Eibach Drag Launch Kit. Lakewood 70-30s struts and Lakewoods 50-50s shocks in the rear.
    393 stroker with YS-trim Vortech :-)

  9. #9
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    Since money is tight, this is what I would recommend. Get the 275/40r17 nitto drag radials in the back. Take off the front sway before you go to the track (helps with weight transfer), run about 20-22 lbs of pressure in the nitto drags, and air up your front tires to about 42-44lbs (less rotating resistance), and race on a full tank of gas (more weight over the rearend to help with traction). I know these things seem very small but every little bit helps when money is tight.

    Troy
    1995 Mustang Cobra
    302-10.77 @ 127.76
    new motor being built
    redsnk@yahoo.com

    owner/moderator
    http://www.stangtuning.com

  10. #10
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    Thanks Guys.

  11. #11
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    How well do you guys think my T-5Z, stock driveline, u-joints, 8.8, and stock cobra axles will hold up on DRs? Plus if I decide to run it the way it is shifting @ 5k, with the 3.73s, will it make it to the 1/4 in 4th?

  12. #12
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    My stock T-5 and stock driveline lasted a long long time on drag radials. On the 275/40r17 Nitto drags (which are 25.5in tall), I could go 123mph in 4th gear shifting at 6000rpms. Since your T-5Z has a 2.95 first gear you might be able to go 124-125 in 4th. So you have plenty of room on the track.

    Troy
    1995 Mustang Cobra
    302-10.77 @ 127.76
    new motor being built
    redsnk@yahoo.com

    owner/moderator
    http://www.stangtuning.com

  13. #13
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    I'm saying I can't rev it higher then 5k right now without blowing the spark out. Could I maybe gap my plugs way down to remedy this problem since I won't be getting the HI-6 for awhile?

  14. #14
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    yes,gap your plugs down till it stops missing @5k..no harm,no foul..usually it's .035 or less..lakewood makes a blowproof bellhousing..

  15. #15
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    Plugs are gapped to .32-.35 right now, how low can I go?

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