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Got my new RR pulley today!
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Thread: Got my new RR pulley today!

  1. #1
    Junior SCH Member
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    Got my new RR pulley today!

    I talked to Jim on the phone for a good while ---- very nice guy. I was interested in seeing this pulley for myself so I had one sent. Folks, I usually don't make posts like this but if this pulley works as good as it looks, I'm hooked.

    The pictures on the website don't really do this thing justice at all so I decided to take a few pictures for myself.

    I'm wondering what kind of boost I will be seeing? I now run a 3.60 pulley (stock'ish vortech) and this pulley is a 3.40 I believe. I'm thinking maybe another 1-1.5psi?

    Not to mention that it will help with the belt slippage problem that I've always been plagued with.







    I'm hoping to get this installed in the next week or two. I've never had the pulley off my Vortech so I'm unaware of what's involved and how hard it really is.

    Take care and thanks for reading,
    Tim
    AOL IM: OneBadAzzGT

    1998 Supercharged Geee Tee (Powered by 2000 SOHC Engine)

    Mods: R470W auto PA valve body/shift kit/deep trans pan, Hayden trans cooler, 2800 PI stall, Vortech "S" trim supercharger, Bullitt intake, Cobra twin 57mm TB, D&D Coilovers, Maximum Motorsport Caster/Camber plates, Lakewood 90/10 strut & Lakewood 50/50 shocks, AFM PowerPipe, FMS Alum Driveshaft, 42 # injectors, Walbro 255 intank fuel pump, Walbro 255 inline fuel pump, Steeda Heavy Duty Upper & Lower Control Arms, Steeda Full Length Subframes w/cross-brace, Cobra R 2 1/2" cowl hood, HPM (Zinc) driveshaft loop, MSD DIS-4, Pro M 80mm MAF, K&N Air, Weld Prostar drag welds, 31 spline Moser axles, 3" Moroso studs, McGuard lugnuts, SVO differential, "Downs" rear Girdle, FMS 3.73 gears, 180 deg thermostat, Fan by-pass switch, FR500 Steering Wheel, Phantom white gauges throughout car, Mac longtube headers, Mac offroad "H" pipe & Borla XR1 catback.

  2. #2
    Junior SCH Member FMGT1999's Avatar
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    Let me know how it tunes out, I've been eye balling one of those myself... Can I ask how much it set you back for it, and how long did it take once you ordered it to get it to you steps?

    Please let me know!

    TY...

    C U L8R,
    Kyle
    NMRA M/M9

  3. #3
    Senior SCH Member Brcuda's Avatar
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    Hmmm

    Nice pics of the pulley, the best I have seen yet.
    393 stroker with YS-trim Vortech :-)

  4. #4
    Junior SCH Member
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    Originally posted by FMGT1999
    Let me know how it tunes out, I've been eye balling one of those myself... Can I ask how much it set you back for it, and how long did it take once you ordered it to get it to you steps?

    Please let me know!

    TY...

    C U L8R,
    Kyle
    NMRA M/M9
    Kyle,
    I'm sorry but I cannot say how much it was --- no pun intended. I talked to Jim a few days ago (like Wednesday) and the pulley arrived like 3 days after. I still can't believe it got here that quickly.

    Tim
    AOL IM: OneBadAzzGT

    1998 Supercharged Geee Tee (Powered by 2000 SOHC Engine)

    Mods: R470W auto PA valve body/shift kit/deep trans pan, Hayden trans cooler, 2800 PI stall, Vortech "S" trim supercharger, Bullitt intake, Cobra twin 57mm TB, D&D Coilovers, Maximum Motorsport Caster/Camber plates, Lakewood 90/10 strut & Lakewood 50/50 shocks, AFM PowerPipe, FMS Alum Driveshaft, 42 # injectors, Walbro 255 intank fuel pump, Walbro 255 inline fuel pump, Steeda Heavy Duty Upper & Lower Control Arms, Steeda Full Length Subframes w/cross-brace, Cobra R 2 1/2" cowl hood, HPM (Zinc) driveshaft loop, MSD DIS-4, Pro M 80mm MAF, K&N Air, Weld Prostar drag welds, 31 spline Moser axles, 3" Moroso studs, McGuard lugnuts, SVO differential, "Downs" rear Girdle, FMS 3.73 gears, 180 deg thermostat, Fan by-pass switch, FR500 Steering Wheel, Phantom white gauges throughout car, Mac longtube headers, Mac offroad "H" pipe & Borla XR1 catback.

  5. #5
    SCH Member WOHORSY's Avatar
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    changing the supercharger pulley is rather easy if you follow these steps.first you will need a large rubber strap wrench (like the one bob villa advertises for sears).this will hold the pulley while you loosen the retaining bolt without scratching it.next get a light duty puller to pull the pulley off the shaft (make sure not to damage the shaft threads).if you have a big aluminum radiator, take the time to undo the fasteners so you can lift the head unit up about 4 - 6 inches for clearance.put some antisieze on the shaft and key, and the pulley should slide right on.put some loctite on the retaining bolt and torque to no more than 35 ft lbs.as you may be aware this voids your warranty.if you have a decent set of heads you should gain about 10 - 12 hp per lb of boost, but more importantly it will put the blowers efficiency closer to the heads flow capabilities.
    306 DSS, S-TRIM W/RENEGADE PULLIES, EXTRUDE HONED LOWER GT40, FULLY PORTED AND LOC WIRED GT40 HEADS, PERMANENT 10 INCH SLICKS.

  6. #6
    Junior SCH Member
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    Originally posted by WOHORSY
    changing the supercharger pulley is rather easy if you follow these steps.first you will need a large rubber strap wrench (like the one bob villa advertises for sears).this will hold the pulley while you loosen the retaining bolt without scratching it.next get a light duty puller to pull the pulley off the shaft (make sure not to damage the shaft threads).if you have a big aluminum radiator, take the time to undo the fasteners so you can lift the head unit up about 4 - 6 inches for clearance.put some antisieze on the shaft and key, and the pulley should slide right on.put some loctite on the retaining bolt and torque to no more than 35 ft lbs.as you may be aware this voids your warranty.if you have a decent set of heads you should gain about 10 - 12 hp per lb of boost, but more importantly it will put the blowers efficiency closer to the heads flow capabilities.
    Thank you very much I appreciate it.

  7. #7
    Senior SCH Member
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    I have found it easier to loosen the pulley bolt prior to removing the tension..that way u don't have to hold it w/anything...works for me...

  8. #8
    SCH Member WOHORSY's Avatar
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    thats how i used to do it until i switched to a 2.85 pulley and could no longer put enough tension on the belt to tighten the retaining bolt.also i noticed alot more belt dust due to the reduced surface area of the smaller pulley.since this is still a street driven car cog drives were out of the question, so i went with a renegade pulley setup that has an 8 inch crank pulley with a 3.15 head unit pulley.these pulley sets also have an improved traction profile to reduce slippage.the belt dust is gone but at least it will slip under downshifting to reduce the stress on the impeller.at 5600 rpm the blower is spinning at about 49,000 rpm, right in the "sweet spot".
    306 DSS, S-TRIM W/RENEGADE PULLIES, EXTRUDE HONED LOWER GT40, FULLY PORTED AND LOC WIRED GT40 HEADS, PERMANENT 10 INCH SLICKS.

  9. #9
    Junior SCH Member
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    Thanks for everyones' help. I had a rough time getting the pulley off because it was a stock one and was almost like tac-welded on there.. hehe... I also had to run around looking for a pulley puller so I didn't mess up the pulley itself on the way coming out.

    I still have some piping to finish up but had to actually remove the entire blower to get the damn pulley off I ended up hitting it with the air gun. I hit it back with the air gun and hopefully that's enough torque for it /tight enough.

    Hoping to drive the car tomorrow night sometime... I have some piping to finish up ---- got too tired tonight to mess with it.

    THANKS AGAIN FOR ALL YOUR HELP... I'll post up my driving impressions of this pulley. When pulling the radiator > thermostat hose off, got some coolant all over the belt... :( sheesh always something.
    AOL IM: OneBadAzzGT

    1998 Supercharged Geee Tee (Powered by 2000 SOHC Engine)

    Mods: R470W auto PA valve body/shift kit/deep trans pan, Hayden trans cooler, 2800 PI stall, Vortech "S" trim supercharger, Bullitt intake, Cobra twin 57mm TB, D&D Coilovers, Maximum Motorsport Caster/Camber plates, Lakewood 90/10 strut & Lakewood 50/50 shocks, AFM PowerPipe, FMS Alum Driveshaft, 42 # injectors, Walbro 255 intank fuel pump, Walbro 255 inline fuel pump, Steeda Heavy Duty Upper & Lower Control Arms, Steeda Full Length Subframes w/cross-brace, Cobra R 2 1/2" cowl hood, HPM (Zinc) driveshaft loop, MSD DIS-4, Pro M 80mm MAF, K&N Air, Weld Prostar drag welds, 31 spline Moser axles, 3" Moroso studs, McGuard lugnuts, SVO differential, "Downs" rear Girdle, FMS 3.73 gears, 180 deg thermostat, Fan by-pass switch, FR500 Steering Wheel, Phantom white gauges throughout car, Mac longtube headers, Mac offroad "H" pipe & Borla XR1 catback.

  10. #10
    Junior SCH Member
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    Finally got the silly Vortech pulley off! errrr Vortech!!! I had the stock 3.60 pulley on the car forever and never have taken it off up until yesterday. Big thanks to RWLKR for helping out because I was about to hit the blower with a big hammer! LOL.

    Anyway, finally got the car out on the road for a little bit of testing and here is what I've noticed thus far:

    1) Car will go into boost much faster with much less effort.
    2) So far, no signs of belt wear, shredding, etc.
    3) Car seems to accelerate much better then previously and perhaps I had more of a slipping problem then I was aware of?

    Not sure if I'll see more boost or not. I am not ready to take the big risk right now of getting up to the 10+ psi with the stock engine To be honest, the car is all over the place with anything 7 psi or above ----- the tires spin from a 50mph roll which can be scary as hell!

    Today I managed to push enough boost to blow the blower discharge tube off (glad I had some tools in the trunk). I then evaluated the piping and decided to re-do it and tighten that stuff down as best as I could ---- that's the first time the discharge has ever blown off = SCARY!!!!

    Just thought I'd post up some impressions since the pulley is now on my car. Just FYI, I swapped from stock Vortech 3.60 pulley to the Reichard racing ultra grip pulley 3.40 .........

    If you've been considering this pulley I highly recommend it just from the little bit of driving I've done today (approx 75 very hard miles).

    Hope this helps someone pondering the decision.

    Take care and keep safe,
    Tim

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