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Thread: How can I flush oil thru my s/c?

  1. #16
    Banned by Admin root's Avatar
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    I would wait until you have the blower on the car. Simply attach your feed line and have the drain going into a catch can. Prime your oil pump and wait until the oil coming out of the NOVI is nice and clean.

    Ian

  2. #17
    SCH Moderator 5150 LX's Avatar
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    Ian funny thing is that I forgot to reattach the feed line once and it was stuffed down between the frame rail and the headers where it wasn't too noticeable, I primed away until I had at least 4 quarts of oil on the garage floor. Freaked me out at first until I found the s/c feed line dangling down under the car :D I called it a day at that point knowing I had a few too many beers to continue to effectively wrench on the car.
    Quote Originally Posted by Kato Engineering
    you just like the metric system because when you talk about your organs length, a three digit number seems to you longer than a one digit number....
    Dart Block 331 and No Power Adder, currently in pieces...... :weird:

    Used to run 6.90 @ 100.4 mph in the 1/8th

  3. #18
    Senior SCH Member mygt8a4re's Avatar
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    good choice, im sure the results will be great! the marvel mystery oil will leave a (safe)oil residue on everything so that you dont have to worry about it spinning before the engine oil hits it once its reinstalled.............

    heres one last thought to add if you hadent started yet. they sell the marvel mystery oil in 1 gallon containers as well as smaller bottles. sure its more expensive but you can do this if you wish: if you decide to run the oil through a hose using the dril pump method, you can put a piece of cheese cloth or filter material in a large funnel, put the oil drain hose in the funnel so the cheese cloth works as a filter so that the oil can be reused. the same can/bucket can be used to supply the oil to the blower that the oil is being returned to. a hose that feeds the inlet hose from the drill pump to the blower can sit in the bottom drawing from the fresh fluid . then the large funnel with filter in it rests on top & the oil drain line sits in this. then the filtered oil returns to the fresh supply so you can continuously flow the oil through over a long period of time for a superior flush of the blower. then you will be eliminating the contaminents with the filter & get the best of your money with the marvel oil instead of discarding it immediately after it runs through the blower.......the filtered oil, once finished, can be returned to the original container for future flushes if needed(or air tool lubes, whatever)... you can add new pieces of cheese cloth periodically to keep the return flow stable as the cloth/filter collects the contaminents............just a thought, im probably driving you nuts by now.........again, im only trying to help...woud be better if i wasnt so "car anal" myself, lol!
    -justin

  4. #19
    SCH Moderator 5150 LX's Avatar
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    I've got plenty of time, just spent the majority of my money saved for engine re-build/machine work on a new Dart block. Got a pretty decent deal from my machinist that I couldn't pass on for a few hundred more than what it would have cost me to do a Boss block build up, needless to say I'm damn near broke again :D
    Quote Originally Posted by Kato Engineering
    you just like the metric system because when you talk about your organs length, a three digit number seems to you longer than a one digit number....
    Dart Block 331 and No Power Adder, currently in pieces...... :weird:

    Used to run 6.90 @ 100.4 mph in the 1/8th

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