The hair dryer made it in.

[notchlx]

Boy was I glad to see the UPS truck last Friday.

The box weighed 75lbs, and the driver was bitchin.

The manual looks straight forward, and seems simple enough. I hope to have the install finished Saturday.

Couple of Q's....If you don't mind.

1. How was tapping the pan. I'm going to go get my 3/8 NPT tap tomorrow. Any problems? After getting everything tapped and ready to go, did you put any sealant on the connector?

2. After install, how do you recommend driving this thing? Rape it, or be fairly gentle for a couple of hundred miles to let the computer learn what's going on.

The truck is speed density, and I hope I won't have endless problems with surging idles.

Thanks

[TheHawk05]

Originally posted by notchlx
Boy was I glad to see the UPS truck last Friday.

The box weighed 75lbs, and the driver was bitchin.

The manual looks straight forward, and seems simple enough. I hope to have the install finished Saturday.

Couple of Q's....If you don't mind.

1. How was tapping the pan. I'm going to go get my 3/8 NPT tap tomorrow. Any problems? After getting everything tapped and ready to go, did you put any sealant on the connector?

2. After install, how do you recommend driving this thing? Rape it, or be fairly gentle for a couple of hundred miles to let the computer learn what's going on.

The truck is speed density, and I hope I won't have endless problems with surging idles.

Thanks

Congrats! Now to your questions.

Tapping the pan is not too bad, although I've only done it on Mustangs. The key to success is simple: TAKE YOUR TIME! And yes you have to put sealant on the threads of the fitting. It should tell you this in the instructions. I believe Paxton recommends RTV silicone. Pipe thread sealant works well too. Do not use teflon tape.

After the install I remember reading at one time that Paxton recommends not beating on it for the first 500 miles so the everything breaks in nicely. They also advise not getting on it until the oil is up to operating temp. Again this should be in your user manual.

Good luck with the install and be patient while you do it. And triple check everything after you're done just to be sure you didn't miss anything.

[notchlx]

Thanks for the reply.

Yes I was definitely thinking it would be best to seal it up with something to keep from oil leaks down the road.

The manual looks very good, they have very detailed pics, and the instructions go into depth... However, they stopped there. There is nothing about care of the charger after install.

Chapter 4 I believe is the chapter where you are finished with the install. It tells you to cycle the ignition switch a few times...Start up for a minute or so, then shut off and check for leaks. After that, it tells you to go for a ride to get it up to operating temperature, then shut it off. After that they tell you to take off the oil feed line into the charger and blow into it, to make sure there are no obstructions....

That's it. The final statement is...Now take your labor of love out on the road, and let it flex its muscles. Be reminded the car will have performance now, that you have not been accustomed to.

!500! miles!.........Man I don't know if I can resist that long. ;)
I was hoping, maybe not to beat on it "too" hard Saturday after the install after driving it for a while, just to see what kind of a difference it made.

Thanks

[Doug]

One more thing about tapping the pan. Use a very heavy grease on the punch and the tap(wheel bearing grease). This will keep any metal fragments from getting into the oil pan.
Doug

[Whistler]

Tapping the oil pan is very easy. Make sure you use a mini-sledge or something with some weight to it. I tried using a regular hammer and after about 10 minutes of pounding on the tap, it hadn't moved :)

I used RTV silicone to seal everything up. Hope the install goes well!!

[Goliath5.0]

Originally posted by dugscpe
One more thing about tapping the pan. Use a very heavy grease on the punch and the tap(wheel bearing grease). This will keep any metal fragments from getting into the oil pan.
Doug

VERY TRUE!

Take heed to the above quoted! CHANGE YOUR OIL Too! That is what I did! Some say it is not necessary, some do! I agree in changing it after you tap the pan!

[notchlx]

I'll be using an air hammer, so I don't think I'll have to worry about swinging my arm off.

The bearing lube is a good idea....I have some already. Already have a tube of RTV too, so I'm set.

I'll grind the punch down, after it breaks the surface on the pan, so as not to run the punch into the crank, or sending unit.

Chris... Most definitely on the oil deal. I now have 18,000 miles, so I'll be changing over to synthetic Mobil1 after the install. I'll change the oil again after about 1000 miles too.

[Goliath5.0]

Sounds like a winner! Good luck on it! I can imagine the looks on peoples faces when they see the tail llights of one certain dodge dakota! :master: I wonder who drives that truck??? ;) :D