Tensioner thread PT.2

**lx-convertible** · 08-31-2003, 05:10 PM

Steve,
the stock idler will not adjust far enough on it's own to tension the belt. I played with it and it won't work. You would have to use a Large pulley in place of the present one to get it to work.

Sean,
snapping a pic now, you'll have mail.

**468LC** · 08-31-2003, 05:40 PM

I must be missing something because it still looks like it would work to me.:bonk: :D

**lx-convertible** · 08-31-2003, 07:35 PM

Steve,

wrapping the belt over the top of the tensioner will not be a good idea. your belt contact with the charger has to be optimum and running it over the top is asking for belt slip . the tensioner on the bottom is a good idea, but adding one up top inbetween the sc and the tensioner would have to happen for you to run the belt over the pulley.

Sean,

I sent you some pics bro. If you were to use a 7 1/4 piece of flat stock, weld on a 90 degree angle of flat stock and drill it to accept the longer bolt through the pulley and fasten it to the intake bolt closest to the VC/Distributor. I think this is the answer. Chime in .....

**5150 LX** · 08-31-2003, 07:46 PM

Neil, shoot me some measurements and if ya can maybe a diagram. My week's looking pretty crappy right now, but if I get a chance, I can try to make a universal piece up with the scrap I have laying around & mail it out to ya for you to put the final touches on. Let me know.

Sean

**468LC** · 08-31-2003, 09:45 PM

Sorry neil I was not very clear in the last pic.

I did not mean to run the belt above the tensioner. MY point with the yellow line is that I find it hard to believe that you could not find a proper length belt for the paxton tensioner to work. If you run the tensioner all the way up and get a belt that is tight as hell then you should be able to put enough tension on that belt to break parts.

I am pretty sure someone has already done this and I am confident that if I ever do this someday that I could pull it off.:)

I think it is one of those deals where it is harder to explain than to acutally do.

**5150 LX** · 08-31-2003, 09:49 PM

Gimme 6mos steve & I'll let ya know....that's about how long my crap will probably sit at the machine shop

**lx-convertible** · 08-31-2003, 09:54 PM

Steve,

Maybe with the tightest belt you can wedge on there it would work out. But the pulley at the bottom of the bracket would be important to get the belt to seat properly.

Sean,

I am going to get my buddy to weld me up a flat stock bracket and I will let you know how I make out with it. I believe it should be a very easy thing to make/fit.

**lx-convertible** · 09-02-2003, 02:18 PM

Well i am having the bracket done today out of aluminum . I am going to run a stud in place of a bolt in the lower intake and anchor it onto there. will send a couple of pics out to ya once i get the bracket and when it's installed.

**blown92lx** · 09-03-2003, 05:03 AM

Not to throw a wrench in the works but your water pump rotation is reversed.

**lx-convertible** · 09-03-2003, 07:20 AM

Are you talking about the pics from the prior threads? If so in there we mentioned how it would have to be a standard rot. pump for that to work. Thanks for trying to help though.

**blown92lx** · 09-03-2003, 07:25 AM

Something like this will work. Don't get all wrapped up about the alternator, you don't need that much contact on it. I've seen this set up without the a/c and power steering except the dude bolted down the Paxton tensioner and used the stock tensioner on an a/c eliminator. I bolted down my Paxton tensioner with a big *** bolt because I broke 2 of the damn things. I pulled the a/c and put a stock tensioner on an a/c eliminator (I'd swear mine's a March but I can't remember.) I still run my power steering though so it takes a little longer belt. I also pulled the pulley and bolt out of my smog eliminator so it goes from the novi to a pulley then straight to the alternator. No problems. Well no problems except no a/c and it won't pass emissions. :D

**lx-convertible** · 09-03-2003, 11:50 AM

Well the PT 1 of this thread in the 1k forum goes more in depth of what i am trying to accomplish here. I had the stock tensioner on the March bracket without PS ac or smog. the tensioner had a 6 rib plastic pulley on it and failed on 3 occasions, taking out three belts and cracking 1 tensioner in half. now i am running the march deluxe bracket with a alumimum pulley. what i want to do is get rid of the whole dummy pulley altogether. a small ribbed Wp pulley with a stan. rot. pump should do it with a really tight and short belt, but that's next year. Right now i am just trying to get the car up and reliable to get it down the track for the rest of the season. Read up on the other thread if you haven't already

**5150 LX** · 09-03-2003, 03:34 PM

Neil hang onto the March billet pulley, if you can't get the belt to tension like Steve has is routed then I found a use for the pulley only off of the March kit. I'll try to modify the above pic to show where it can be used to ensure that you have full adjustablity of the tensioner.

**5150 LX** · 09-03-2003, 03:55 PM

Okay, the artwork is complete, lol.

In addition to Steve's recommendation to do away w/ any bracket when running no p/s or a/c. Remove the March pulley from the bracket & install where indicated. What do ya think? All you'd have to do is replace the bolt in pictured location with a stud & then attach the March pulley to the stud. You would have to switch to a standard rot. w/p but this looks as though it'd come out very clean, doing away with the bracket with extra brackets, lol.

**blown92lx** · 09-03-2003, 05:18 PM

Ya know, on the stock tensioner, I'm still using the flat original pulley. Don't necessarily think you're supposed to run a flat pulley on the grooved side but it works like a charm none the less. No problems noted to date with the belt. Perhaps some day I'll make it pretty but it works for now.

Thread: Tensioner thread PT.2

Thread Tools

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions