just installed novi 2000 HELP!!

[cyclohexanol]

I just posted on corral too:


Hello all, this is my first time posting.

A buddy and I recently finished putting together a new motor, supercharger, and fuel system.

Prior to installing the supercharger, we were running the newly built 342 breaking it in, it ran nicely, and had a little 'surging' or hesitation basically throught the entire RPM range under any sort of acceleration, but it ran nicely otherwise.

Now we've installed a paxton novi 2000, and walbro 255lph intank, 255lph inline pumps. The car runs worse than a VW bus!!
The other mods installed are:
Holley 42lb injectors
BBK adj. fuel pressure regulator (vac on/ keyed but not started - 42psi)
Edelbrock 70mm TB
BBK 70mm EGR spacer
TFS upper/lower intake
c&l 80mm mass air tucked into the fenderwell due to lack of space.
MSD 8582 billet distributor, TFI blaster coil
Motorsport (?) 4017 cam
Probe racing 1.6 roller rockers
Probe racing PRS pistons
Probe racing ultralight rods
Probe racing 4340 forged stroker crank

I just replaced the EGR and IAC with brand new parts from Ford ($$)
I also replaced the anti-backfire valve, because the headers melted the old one (more $$ for ford)
Oh, and we also just replaced the pickup -> fuel filter fuel line because the exhaust melted/wore away a hole in it (more $$ for ford)

I've restabbed the dist. twice, dialed it in to 10 initially then busted the timing light through that 1/2" gap between the belts and timed it to 12 on the nose.

When I start the car, it idles fine, but vac seems low - 10-15hg, I can't even say what it does when I get on it because as soon as I press down at all on the accelerator it bogs, vac drops to almost 0, then dies. I can hear a 'thudding' sound from the engine occasionally when I give it a little gas.

My fp gauge seems to have stopped working, so I can't get a read on the fp anymore, but the adjustment hasn't been touched.

what is going on here???? i'm getting so frustrated. I was trying to get it just to run a little so I could take it to the tuner and dynotune it, but now it won't even go down the street.

Also, after I power off the car, I hear a 'bubbling' sound from around the driver side valve cover (maybe intake area), and a hissing sound, which goes away after about a minute, also from the same area. I've got denso IT22 plugs on the way, and a Pro-M 80mm mass air w/filter on the way as well, I've heard the c&ls aren't all that great. But there has to be something else wrong for it to run so ... ****ily

ideas? suggestions? flames? anything is most welcome

also we aren't running the FMU either

thanks in advance

[TheHawk05]

To get a handle on the problem we need to make sure the fuel pressure is fine with the engine running. You'll want at least 42lbs with the engine running/vacuum off. Make sure your C&L has the proper sample tube for your injectors. If the above two are correct, try clocking the meter in a different position...C&L's are very sensitive to this. So say the top of the sensor is pointing at 12' o'clock, try moving it to 9 and see what happens. Also make sure your TPS is set correctly (shoot for .96-.98 key on, engine off)

10+hg of vacuum is fine so don't worry about that. I believe your problem is fuel related here...as in too much which is most likley being caused by the maf.

Double check and make sure there are no vacuum leaks anywhere including stuff like your bypass valve and hoses including it's vacuum hose. Make sure that is connected to a good vacuum source. Mechanic tip for finding vauum leaks....spray WD-40 or cold start spray fluid (keep the latter away from sparks please!) while the engine is running in the suspected area. If their is a vacuum leak the revs will climb.

Also check Pro-M's tech section on their site. Their is some good troubleshooting info that applies to Mustangs there.

[cyclohexanol]

Gotcha, I'll try to get my gauge working again and check the fp with the engine on; vac off. I dunno what happened to the gauge, it worked fine the first night, I just had it kinda rigged up to power and the sender, then the next night, nothing. Or maybe it does work and my fp is 0 :p I didn't have the recommended 1amp fuse installed, I'm thinking maybe I blew gauge (its an autometer electric full sweep lunar), either way, I'll get an fp on it.

Would the position of the mass air make it run like that though? or is that just something that will help a little, it seems awfully drastic for something so seemingly small. The car doesn't really move anywhere, is the air turbulent enough at rest to cause that kind of error?

I asked for a 42lb cal'd mass air, but how can I check to make sure that it is? I was also rather suspicious that the motor was getting too much fuel. I smell a lot of gas after I try to run it.

I'll also check for vac leaks. On a friend's car with the same cam (but a 308) he runs 15hg at idle, I was kind of worried to see that mine made less at idle for a bigger engine, shouldn't it be making more vac?

thanks for the advice :)

[TheHawk05]

Ask around about C&L's and you'll quickly learn that yes a small change in the clocking of it can make a huge difference in how the car runs and drives.

To verify which calibration you have is simple. C&L sample tubes are all color coded. At the back side of the sample tube there should be a color mark there. Call C&L and ask them what color sample tube you should have for 42lb injectors and for the size of your meter ( a 76mm vs an 80mm will use a different sample tube even though they are both calibrated for 42's)

[regattacoupe]

clocking was world off difference. The difference between not running and fogging for mosquitos to running very well. I'm sure you have the air filter on out of the fan wash. What you describre when you stomp sounds fuel related or a vacuum leak.

[cyclohexanol]

Thanks for the tips again guys, I picked up a fp gauge to dial in the fp at idle w/vac off to start with. Also, my pro-m 80mm came today so I'm gonna take off the c&l and install the pro-m. I'll look on the back of the c&l, i'm pretty sure it has a green mark now that I think of it (I just posted on corral that i had no clue what it was)

I'll let you know what happens -crosses fingers-

[UNTCHBL]

I'm interested to here the outcome. Glenn already beat me to all the good tech.

Brandon

p.s. I may consider buying that c&l. They work fine when you have em clocked right.

[regattacoupe]

i've clocked till my hand was raw from reaching into the fender. I'm ordering a 80 pro-m from morpheus this week or next.

[cyclohexanol]

Well I couldn't really get the pro-m under my fenderwell with my current pipe erm.. "rig", so I just ordered the morpheus powerpipe (thanks for the tip hawk), I guess I just have to wait until then to fire it up and dial in the fp

ps. brandon - after I get the pro-m on and verify that it works, you can have the c&l, just pay for the shipping. I'll keep you posted.

john

[cyclohexanol]

update:

I just hooked a elbow bend to the pro-m 80mm w/filter and had it sticking straight up in the air with the hood open, because I couldn't get it to fit in the fenderwell with the tubing I have right now (hence waiting for the powerpipe) anyway, I fired it up, it idled perfectly smoothly, no knocking or missing, vac stayed pegged at ~18, it was perfect. Now I just have to wait for the powerpipe, install it permanently under the fender, peg the fp, and get it dyno tuned, yeeehaaaa!@

Thanks to everyone for the advice. That hissing and bubbling sound is still there, but I'll work on that, I'm just glad it runs now.
Brandon, if you want the c&l its yours, just email me amputee@impurity.org

john

ps i'll post the dyno numbers when its all done

[regattacoupe]

Thats why i'm ordering one! LOL

congrats! wait till ya get it tuned up and it spins 3rd gear like it used to spin 1st

[cyclohexanol]

One more question, what temp t-stat would you guys run on a 342 with a n2k, the one that is in it now is a 160, i hear bad things about running too cool, should I replace with a 180?

I have a griffin 31x19 2-core aluminum, and a flex-a-lite dual trimline fan, which keep things as cool as I want them, the question is how cool is too cool?

john