Combo evaluation time. I want 45 more RWHP..........

[468LC]

For next season. Goal is 10.90s on 425rwhp.

Current very cheap combo is.

Stock 165k mile short block with an E cam in it.
Unported GT40P heads.
1.7 shaft roller rockers.
TrickFlow street intake.
BBK longtubes X pipe and Dmax turbos with dumps.
Electric fan
Novi 1k currently at 8 PSI at 6k.
190 fuel pump
30 pound injectors and no fmu
73 C&L
65MM FRPP T/B

Car runs very strong and I mean VERY strong with this current setup. Numbers in sig.

If my trans wasn't such a POS I could probably squeak a 10.99 out of it now.

Plans for next year will be a new trans with a Brake in it.

Motor plans

42 pound injectors with matching ProM.
Bigger fuel pump.
Swapping out the TrickFlow intake for something better.
Possible custom cam.
I have a 7.5inch crank pulley for the blower that will make 11PSI but the car does not run right with it on the current tune.

This is just some of the ideas I have had. Could I possibly make more power with bigger t/bs or mass airs. I don't really know if I'm at the limits of what I have.

Is the trick flow intake hurting me at all?


Any advice on making more power through more efficient parts would be appreciated.

[lx-convertible]

bigger cam , more boost, better tranny should put you where you want to be at.

[root]

Well my shortblock would be a good idea :)

I would do the fuel upgrades, 10-12lbs of boost and a Ed Curtis cam - he will get you where you want to be 100%.

Ian

[Chuck]

Steve,

I would see about upgrading to the track heat intake.

How much total timing are you running?

What kind of gas?

Do you have a chip? I am wondering cause you say the car doesnt run right with the added boost.

42# injectors would definatly be a must, I think your 30's are at the limit.

What rpm do you shift at? The E cam runs out of steam at about 5500 unless you degree it a little.

[468LC]

Thanks guys.

I also wanted to add before anyone mentions it, that is there will be no porting of anything at this time.:)


Chuck I wanted a track heat form get go one but the guy that I bought my current TrickFlow did not know what he had and sold me a street heat intake on accident. LOL that is what I get for not asking for pics before I buy something. He appoligized and gave some money back.

I guess you can by trickflow uppers new for like 180 so I might just do that.

No more than 92 octane here so that is all she gets.

No chip at this time. I do not really believe in them and there is no one in the area that burns them.

I shift at 5500 on the stock tach. On the dyno using their tach it was making power all the way to 6k and still climbing. I installed the cam straight up and did not degree it but I am guessing it is slightly retarded by luck.

[468LC]

My questions that peak my curiousity at the moment are.

1 Is the intake holding me back at all? Is there something better or even just going to a track heat upper?

2 Are my throttle body and Mass air sizes holding me back at my current power levels?

3 Are my mufflers holding me back at all?

4 Is my cam holding me back to the point of being worth changing?

[Goliath5.0]

Originally posted by 468LC
My questions that peak my curiousity at the moment are.

1 Is the intake holding me back at all? Is there something better or even just going to a track heat upper?

2 Are my throttle body and Mass air sizes holding me back at my current power levels?

3 Are my mufflers holding me back at all?

4 Is my cam holding me back to the point of being worth changing?

1. The track heat intake according to trickflow has an rpm range
of 1500rpm-6500rpm, versus the street heat which its range is
idle to 5500 rpm. The track heat would be the better choice.

2. I would advise you to bump up to a 70mm throttle body. Many
people might disagree, but the 5mm gain is worth the upgrade.
It would for sure compliment the track heat intake.

I had the track heat intake and both t/bs (65 and 70 mm),
the car noticably pulled harder when I upgraded to the 70mm,
also had a second wrench head take a drive before and after
the upgrade and he agreed the car pulled harder with the
70mm. btw I also had an 80mm mass air, good choice!

3. Mufflers... I would recommend any unchambered, straight
through design styled mufflers for an app like yours. I have
heard good things about the Holley Terminator "BiteMe"
Mufflers on supercharged cars. I have a friend that runs them
on his 86 gt nitrous app, and those bastards sound awesome
with dumps or with tail pipes!! I rank them up there with the
Borla XR-1s and Dynomax Race Bullets in terms of sound and
performance. The sound is of a snapping junk yard dog bark
ready to brawl! It is similar to the sound of an XR-1.


4. I like the trickflow grinded cams (comps cams *cough*), such
as the TFS stage 1 cam. IF I had to choose my setup over again
I would choose the TFS STAGE 2 cam. Judging by your
setup I think that TFS 2 cam would MORE than compliment
your application.

[5150 LX]

Originally posted by 468LC
Chuck I wanted a track heat form get go one but the guy that I bought my current TrickFlow did not know what he had and sold me a street heat intake on accident. LOL that is what I get for not asking for pics before I buy something. He appoligized and gave some money back.

Don't feel bad Steve, the only way to tell the difference between the uppers is by the casting number on the bottom. I layed bothe the street & track side by side and you visibly could not tell, thought I got screwed at first as well until I contacted Trick-flow and confirmed what the #'s on the underside were.

FWIW, you could probably buy just a track heat upper thru JD's and then possibly sell off your street upper. I got lucky and found someone selling just the Track upper and then sold my Street,, the upgrade cost me less than $50.

[regattacoupe]

I would say yes your MAF and 30lb'rs were a hinderence but your car seemed like it just need a stall and VB like mine did. Bigger maf=more air yes. Bigger injectors=more fuel. You may not get any faster from this but you may be a little more on the safe side. I'm going with a custom converter and a fresh shortblock for this year. I think i can get in the 10's on 9- 10lbs of boost on a fully prepped chassis. Throttle body is an on going argument i guess. I'm staying with a 70. Custom cam? yeah buddy! or just something with more lift. If you think about this steve, our little cams with the right converter will make mad 60ft times and the blower should take care of the rest! At least thats my plan. LOL

[regattacoupe]

Oh yeah and this about muffs! There's been alot of crap on the net about flowmasters being restrictive and I did my own little test. I did back to back runs, 1 hour apart -w- 2 chambers and dumps and open O/R H pipe. All 2 1/2" of course and saw no improvement. BUT---I saw no change at all except i made people around the water box back up a little!

[Mike Gager]

NMRA real street guys are running 9s with the street heat intake and stock camshaft, i dont think the intake is hurting you that much


id say more boost and a better trans will get you there.

[fanglemeister]

You have a decent combo that I would not mess much with, but it could be massaged slightly.

#1 Do some grinding work in the exhaust ports. In one weekend I improved my iron GT40 peak exhaust port flow from 146cfm @ .45" to 168 cfm @ .5". If you feel like it, clean up the intakes a little bit as well, remove the machining ridges in the intake throats. But the real gains for the iron GT40 heads, especially on a blower motor, is in the exhaust ports. Don't have to mess with the short side turn, just open out the bowls & transition to the seat, streamline the guides bosses, knock down the egr bump, and raise the roof slightly. About 15 hours of work for a beginner.

#2 Any flow test on stock iron GT40 & P heads will show that flow does not improve much at all over .45" lift; the E303 cam with 1.7 RRs is really into lift overkill for stock GT40 heads. More lift won't gain you squat. However you may want to try out a specific blower cam if you just have the itch to swap cams, maybe something like the AFM B21 which is ideal for pulling up to 6200, with 8-15 pounds boost, 2600-3000 stall TC.

#3 The street intake isn't hurting you if you use it within the design's intended rpm range, which is, signing off at 5500-5800 rpm. This is one of the reasons you are running so quick - area under the torque curve. Of course, having boost helps mask the effect of small ports at higher rpm; overall I'd say the intake is well matched to the GT40P heads.

#4 The transmission & converter are where you can make some major gains ET wise. Also, putting the car on a diet and losing some pounds will help gain those last few tenths.

#5 tune it up via wideband O2 setup, maybe add H20/meth injection to allow filling out the timing curve a wee bit, should be good for the last few tenths.

[fanglemeister]

Originally posted by regattacoupe
Oh yeah and this about muffs! There's been alot of crap on the net about flowmasters being restrictive and I did my own little test. I did back to back runs, 1 hour apart -w- 2 chambers and dumps and open O/R H pipe. All 2 1/2" of course and saw no improvement. BUT---I saw no change at all except i made people around the water box back up a little!

As I gather it, the Flowmasters are fine with an H-pipe but don't do well with an X-pipe, they seem to need the stronger exhaust pulses from the H-pipe to function properly, the X-pipe smooths out the flow too much. Best bet with an X-pipe is straight-thrus like Walker Race Magnums, etc.

[468LC]

Excellent advice guys.

Chris do you have an opinion on MAF and throttle body size?

[UNTCHBL]

Steve,

t-body, only needs to be the size of the inlet pipe it's connected too.

mass-air needs to be as big as possible with a blower. To me it seems like the pro-m 80mm shortie is the best bet. I'm thinking of boycotting pro-m though. Well probably not since they are the only damn company that makes a decent meter. lol

converter: I think this is the most important part of the setup. paired with the right cam, huge gains could be made in this area. The convertor will optomize the amount of load on the motor, and also dictates when the power is going to be delivered. Paired with the proper cam, ie: cam makes peak torque 1000rpm higher then your stall, the car should be a totally different beast.

cam: get somthing blower specific. so much more power can be had when a cam is paired to a blower. (114 lobe serpation, more exhaust diration and lift). comp cams, or custom would be the only way to go in my opinion. I don't like the anderson cam's.

I would suggest this, v/b and convertor first, cam second, mass air, t-body, and then if you have the money left, freshen the shortblock. especially if you are going to pull the motor to swap cams.

Brandon