Just installed and weather I get on the car hard or just drive around town the car will die the sec. it goes into neutral. I need to keep a load on the engine to keep from dying. I have a powerpipe and a pro-m 77 in fender. Any suggestions? Thanks
Just installed and weather I get on the car hard or just drive around town the car will die the sec. it goes into neutral. I need to keep a load on the engine to keep from dying. I have a powerpipe and a pro-m 77 in fender. Any suggestions? Thanks
This really could be a multitude of things.
Do you have a bypass valve?
When was the last time the car did not do this and what things have you changed since then?
Dart Block 331 and No Power Adder, currently in pieces...... :weird:Originally Posted by Kato Engineering
Used to run 6.90 @ 100.4 mph in the 1/8th
Well I just added the blower powerpipe and 42# inj. It never did that before
try rotating maf and double check vac lines. As mentioned in the pm, i had stalling issues, found out it was a vac line that had popped off.
Here's a few ideas:
Check the Maf connector
Try rotating the MAF (clocking)
Double check all vac lines (I assume you removed the upper intake to install the 42's)
Did you reset the computer?
What's your fuel pressure at?
Do you have a bypass valve??
Dart Block 331 and No Power Adder, currently in pieces...... :weird:
Used to run 6.90 @ 100.4 mph in the 1/8th
ya beat me to the punch Hustler :D
ok I'll check that. Here is a pic of my blower
OH BTW. Has anyone had to cut the inlet tube to get it to line up with the t.b.? Mine didn't line up for anything. I had to have the inlet tube cut to fit on mine
Yes, that is pretty common especially when running an aftermarket intake.
yeah i had to cut mine. It wasn't even close
89 Coupe with parts stacked inside of it and about 30#'s of dust on it with no end in sight. :weird:
Although I am collecting parts for a 12.5:1 393 :D
did you ever clock you MAF?
89 Coupe with parts stacked inside of it and about 30#'s of dust on it with no end in sight. :weird:
Although I am collecting parts for a 12.5:1 393 :D
I did not have to, but many people have had to do it. Wierd!
Chris...
Current beast: 1994 Ford Mustang Cobra #379 - slated up for a windsor and some boost
Stangs and other SVT products I've owned...
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[ sold... ]
91 Ford Mustang LX Sport 5.0
Novi 1000 - 8" Crank Powered & Nitrous Works Powered R.I.P. Friend, it was fun! [ sold... ]
93 Ford Mustang Cobra #4549 w/an s-trim and all the goodies(Metallic Teal) [ sold... ]
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One other thing you may want to check that I haven't saw mentioned yet, if you moved you mass air meter into the fender, did you have to extend your wiring? If so, how did you do it? May want to check the connections and solder them if you haven't alredy. Just my $.02
Chris
Elevation kills boost!
LX = 13.47 @ 102.49, 1.80 60', at 6900' DA
Cobra = 12.82 @ 109.25, 1.98 60' at 5400' DA
I was told not to soder them but use weatherproof butt connectors
See I was told the same thing and the car ran like crap for weeks. I couldn't figure out why it was always dying coming up to stop lights/signs, why it ran like crap and sputtered every time I got on it, no matter how I drove it. I took the butt connectors off, and soldered the splices with a friend of mine, and the car ran 100% better. It was amazing how much better the car felt and ran. It may not be your problem, but whats the worse that will happen? You waste 20 minutes soldering.
Chris
Elevation kills boost!
LX = 13.47 @ 102.49, 1.80 60', at 6900' DA
Cobra = 12.82 @ 109.25, 1.98 60' at 5400' DA
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