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Thread: About to order one!

  1. #31
    Junior SCH Member
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    Originally posted by Ian
    I like the electric one, it is more expensive but worth it IMHO.

    Ian
    Is it even possible to mount the mechanical FP gauge in the car? I heard something about recalls from Autometer for fuel leaking and causing fires. I saw a mechanical FP gauge on Summits website and it had an isolator. Is that all I need to mount it in the car?

    I would love to get the electric gauge, but after spending nearly $2500, I don't know if I want to spend $200 on a gauge. Especially since I'm going to school and don't even have a job right now!

  2. #32
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    I have a mechanical fuel pressure guage mounted on the hood. I've heard many problems with inaccurate isolators when they are ran inside the car.
    1991 LX hatch AOD - Dart block, 3.25" crank, H-beams, Ross pistons, Novi 2k, TW heads, Performer RPM, 75mm TB, 80mm MAF, Bennett cam, 60lb inj., AFM Powerpipe, Kooks LTs, Snow Performance methanol/water injection, enough fuel for the Space Shuttle Discovery

    Old Combo - 148k mile stock bottom end, P&P E7s, AOD, NX wet kit
    428.3rwhp 566.7 rwtq

    Whoever said money can't buy happiness never had a wife with breast implants. ;)

  3. #33
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    Originally posted by FullAuto
    I have a mechanical fuel pressure guage mounted on the hood. I've heard many problems with inaccurate isolators when they are ran inside the car.
    Only problem is that I'm afraid someone will take it if I have it on the hood. On nice days I drive it to school, and I don't trust the people there. Maybe I'll just mount it in the engine bay for now, and when I have more money get the electrical one.

  4. #34
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    Originally posted by 1992blkGT
    Is it even possible to mount the mechanical FP gauge in the car? I heard something about recalls from Autometer for fuel leaking and causing fires. I saw a mechanical FP gauge on Summits website and it had an isolator. Is that all I need to mount it in the car?

    You can't bring raw fuel inside the car. You have to run an isolator to get the guage inside. I've heard they are inaccurate though.
    1991 LX hatch AOD - Dart block, 3.25" crank, H-beams, Ross pistons, Novi 2k, TW heads, Performer RPM, 75mm TB, 80mm MAF, Bennett cam, 60lb inj., AFM Powerpipe, Kooks LTs, Snow Performance methanol/water injection, enough fuel for the Space Shuttle Discovery

    Old Combo - 148k mile stock bottom end, P&P E7s, AOD, NX wet kit
    428.3rwhp 566.7 rwtq

    Whoever said money can't buy happiness never had a wife with breast implants. ;)

  5. #35
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    Originally posted by 1992blkGT
    Only problem is that I'm afraid someone will take it if I have it on the hood. On nice days I drive it to school, and I don't trust the people there. Maybe I'll just mount it in the engine bay for now, and when I have more money get the electrical one.
    I was worried about that too. But with the steel braid going to it, they'd have to have a wrench and screwdriver to get it off. But I'm not in high school either. There they may just try to rip it off break it.
    1991 LX hatch AOD - Dart block, 3.25" crank, H-beams, Ross pistons, Novi 2k, TW heads, Performer RPM, 75mm TB, 80mm MAF, Bennett cam, 60lb inj., AFM Powerpipe, Kooks LTs, Snow Performance methanol/water injection, enough fuel for the Space Shuttle Discovery

    Old Combo - 148k mile stock bottom end, P&P E7s, AOD, NX wet kit
    428.3rwhp 566.7 rwtq

    Whoever said money can't buy happiness never had a wife with breast implants. ;)

  6. #36
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    Originally posted by 1992blkGT
    Well I bit the bullet and order everything I needed!! I got the Novi 1000, 80mm Pro-M, 42lb injectors, 255lph fuel pump, Bosch bypass valve, Kirbin AFPR, and ASP smog delete kit.
    Let's come back to this post. I have some omre questions. I was going to order a MAF, injectors and powerpipe too. I already have the 255lph pump and Kirban AFPR. But do I need the bypass valve and smog delete? Does the kit come with a bypass? Is it just junk and needs to be upgraded? What's the story on it? And I don't have a smog pump on my car. Oklahoma doesn't have inspections anymore. Yea! So I don't need the smog delete do I? Or do I need a pulley there for the belt?
    1991 LX hatch AOD - Dart block, 3.25" crank, H-beams, Ross pistons, Novi 2k, TW heads, Performer RPM, 75mm TB, 80mm MAF, Bennett cam, 60lb inj., AFM Powerpipe, Kooks LTs, Snow Performance methanol/water injection, enough fuel for the Space Shuttle Discovery

    Old Combo - 148k mile stock bottom end, P&P E7s, AOD, NX wet kit
    428.3rwhp 566.7 rwtq

    Whoever said money can't buy happiness never had a wife with breast implants. ;)

  7. #37
    SCH Moderator 5150 LX's Avatar
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    FullAuto, Paxton still does not include a bypass valve with the Novi 1000, you will need it to maintain idle and part throttle driveability not matter what Paxton may think/say.

    you will be fine with the 255 in-tank.

    From what I've run across, you will need a smog delete kit.
    Quote Originally Posted by Kato Engineering
    you just like the metric system because when you talk about your organs length, a three digit number seems to you longer than a one digit number....
    Dart Block 331 and No Power Adder, currently in pieces...... :weird:

    Used to run 6.90 @ 100.4 mph in the 1/8th

  8. #38
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    Originally posted by FullAuto
    I was worried about that too. But with the steel braid going to it, they'd have to have a wrench and screwdriver to get it off. But I'm not in high school either. There they may just try to rip it off break it.
    Well, I'm in college, not high school. I still don't trust the people there though! I will just get the mechanical gauge and keep it under the hood for now.

  9. #39
    SCH Moderator regattacoupe's Avatar
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    jegs sells a liquid gauge for cheap that mounts right on the schrader valve. I ran one two years ago till i put one on my cowl.
    89 Coupe with parts stacked inside of it and about 30#'s of dust on it with no end in sight. :weird:





    Although I am collecting parts for a 12.5:1 393 :D

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