Air Charge Temps

[Xtreme Limits]

What do ya guys see as far as air charge temp? and how much boost you running?

[swilldup]

What do ya guys see as far as air charge temp? and how much boost you running?

[swilldup]

are car sees 290 at the end w around 30 pounds of boost

[Blown347Hatch]

are car sees 290 at the end w around 30 pounds of boost

I presume that's with no cooler (as mine was).

What kind of timing are you getting away with?

[swilldup]

I presume that's with no cooler (as mine was).

What kind of timing are you getting away with?

i think you would be sick if i told you........we have run as much as 31 degrees at full boost!usually around 28-29 at boost...brodix heads NEED alot of timing!

and yes...thats no cooler

[Blown347Hatch]

i think you would be sick if i told you........we have run as much as 31 degrees at full boost!usually around 28-29 at boost...brodix heads NEED alot of timing!

and yes...thats no cooler

I'm running cast iron street heats with 28 degrees timing. My EGT's usually 1580-1640 depending on air quality. How about yours?

[HazMat]

66 degrees after a-to-w indash cooler with 27 psi on YSi Trim

150 degress after a-t-a front mount with 22 psi on Y-Trim

[Blown347Hatch]

66 degrees after a-to-w indash cooler with 27 psi on YSi Trim

150 degress after a-t-a front mount with 22 psi on Y-Trim

Air to water is amazing. I'm glad you posted. Just this week, I was pondering whether to scrap air to water for the convenience of air to air. But your charge temps say it all.

[HazMat]

You wont be sorry.

[Blown347Hatch]

You wont be sorry.

Have you ever done an ET/HP comparison, between any of the before/after combinations.

I live in Miami, FL, and on a 40 degree night with no changes made to my car, it picked up a tad over 4 MPH, and it was already going 150 before the pick-up. I'm wondering if that was just from a 40 degree ambient drop alone, or if the cold night somehow made the charge temps reduce by more than the 40 degree outside drop in temp.

How many gallon water tank would you recommend? I was thinking of a large bilge pump, and using 3/4 inch heater hose. Everything else in the car is high dollar hose, and I thought for the I/C I wouldn't need steel braided. Any particular GPH required for the water pump? Do I need to put a screen inside the tank to prevent ice from clogging the pump? Are plastic tanks better at keeping the ice cold, since they probably don't sweat as much condensation?

Greg

[Blown347Hatch]

I just looked at your car photos. Looks like a bad biotch. What are you getting out of it? Are you going to bring it to Orlando for FFW Spring Break? If yes, what class would you run?

[HazMat]

Greg, I have not had a chance yet to test the dyno findings at the track. I think it would similar. I am running a 10 gallon aluminium ice box with a screen. I highly recommend using a screen for two reasons. #1 it will help prevent the ice from eating away at the pump impellar blades ( this could reduce the pumps capabilities) #2 the pieces of ice could make it into the water side of the cooler and flatten out the fins ( this could reduce the cooling capabilities of the cooler).

I used an12 rubber hose that just pushed onto "push on" an fittings. I can shoot a photo of my pump ( bought from Grainger for approx. $130.00) and how my lines are run.

I actually run from the tank, to the pump, to the indash cooler, to the tranny cooler and then return to the tank.

Blown347hatch, thanks for the comments. Sounds like you have a nice ride. I have not run the car on the strip since the conversion (powerglide, 10 point, chassis and suspension upgrades). If i can get the FAST seq on soon we might bring it out to Orlando. It will probably be with the 302, i don't think the 345 will be done yet, so i would probalby just run true street. I am hoping for 800-900 @ the wheels with the new 345, FAST seq and YSi.

[Blown347Hatch]

Greg, I have not had a chance yet to test the dyno findings at the track. I think it would similar. I am running a 10 gallon aluminium ice box with a screen. I highly recommend using a screen for two reasons. #1 it will help prevent the ice from eating away at the pump impellar blades ( this could reduce the pumps capabilities) #2 the pieces of ice could make it into the water side of the cooler and flatten out the fins ( this could reduce the cooling capabilities of the cooler).

I used an12 rubber hose that just pushed onto "push on" an fittings. I can shoot a photo of my pump ( bought from Grainger for approx. $130.00) and how my lines are run.

I actually run from the tank, to the pump, to the indash cooler, to the tranny cooler and then return to the tank.

Blown347hatch, thanks for the comments. Sounds like you have a nice ride. I have not run the car on the strip since the conversion (powerglide, 10 point, chassis and suspension upgrades). If i can get the FAST seq on soon we might bring it out to Orlando. It will probably be with the 302, i don't think the 345 will be done yet, so i would probalby just run true street. I am hoping for 800-900 @ the wheels with the new 345, FAST seq and YSi.

I will look for you out there. Thanks for the tips. True Street is a cool class. I ran there in that class last year. Posted a 9.20 and was the 7th fastest. The fastest guys are the turbo cars (go figure). What are you hoping for? Looks like something in the 8's.

[HazMat]

Yeah, high 8's is the wish. But you know how that goes. Wish in one hand and Sh@! in the other. I am going to have to setup the susupension and go through some trial and error on the torque converter. If the car is not set up right and i'm not going to come to FL and make some half *** pass. Like you said there are far too many fast cars there. What trans are you running? If auto what is your stall? (stahl?)

[Blown347Hatch]

Yeah, high 8's is the wish. But you know how that goes. Wish in one hand and Sh@! in the other. I am going to have to setup the susupension and go through some trial and error on the torque converter. If the car is not set up right and i'm not going to come to FL and make some half *** pass. Like you said there are far too many fast cars there. What trans are you running? If auto what is your stall? (stahl?)

I have PA's Supercomp C-4. I also have their 9 inch converter. If I take the low side chip out of the 2-step, it will stall to 5200. I leave with a 3800 chip. The last time out, the cold air made the car find some extra power, and it wouldn't stop standing straight up. I smashed the hell out of my headers, and didn't get a full pass that night. My balancer split from the YS-Trim and the Cog set-up. So, the motor's at Ronni Crawford's shop, and turbo here we come. I'm hoping for low 8's after working the bugs out. It will have a air/water intecooler, 4 inch tubing. 91mm turbo. I think power won't be the problem, going straight and keeping my pants clean will!