What is the best style MAF for a powerpipe equipped car ,blow thru or draw thru and how can you tell the difference?
What is the best style MAF for a powerpipe equipped car ,blow thru or draw thru and how can you tell the difference?
Last edited by Hooligan; 01-20-2004 at 12:56 PM.
I would have to say a "Draw-Thru" , "ProM" , with a S/C calibration. :D
"The replacement for displacement is measured in P.S.I."
91 Turbo GT Vert (fast)
92 GMC Typhoon #1799
00 Suzuki Katana
90 LX Vert 5.0 (all stock 57,000mi)
Pro-M 80mm shortie! Hands down.
90 strawberry coupe
What about the Universal for draw thru use, any comments on it???
Dart Block 331 and No Power Adder, currently in pieces...... :weird:Originally Posted by Kato Engineering
Used to run 6.90 @ 100.4 mph in the 1/8th
I don't see where you could go wrong with it sean. Never heard either way though. The 80 works pretty well though
90 strawberry coupe
What If I,m using a NA 80mm shortie on my application? Besides having to run more FP is there any other down side?
306 dss pro bullet,gt40x aluminum heads,Crane roller rockers,AFM b41 cam, cobra intake upper and lower match ported, 42lb injectors, FMU, pro-m 80 mass air, Morpheus power pipe, 255lph high pressure intank pump, trex inline pump, novi-2000 stock pullies 8-10psi, strange axles, 3:73 gears, full guages, tremec tranny, aluminum driveshaft, msd, msd boost retard, bbk headers, Mac h-pipe w/cats, 2 chamber flowmasters, eibach springs
HP:446
TQ:430
No, not at all. the blower meters just have more fuel added up top
90 strawberry coupe
Originally Posted by 5150 LX
You could use it but you won't gain anything. The universal's are designed to be used in situations where the location of the maf or the setup it's used in creates too much "noise" in the maf signal going to the EEC. "Noise" in the signal is created by turbulent air which messes up the signal in a conventional maf. Examples where problems occur and where a universal is usually the solution:
Cold Air Kits on N/A cars = typically these kits have an elbow right in front of the maf which wreaks havoc on the signal causing driveability issues.
Blow through setups = typical on turbo and Procharger setups with intercoolers. The maf is mounted after the intercooler in the outlet pipe feeding the intake. The air charge is usually pretty turbulent.
The universal's design is very simple actually. It's actually two pieces. The inner sleeve has a corkscrew shape machined on it's outer sheel. When it is mounted in conjunction with the other sleeve that forms the body of the maf, it forms a cork screw shaped channel for the air to travel through before reaching the sensor element. This dampens the air which removes any turbulence and will then allow the maf to provide a clean, accurate reading to the sensor element.
With that said, the most popular and successful meter to use in a draw through blower setup is the 80mm Pro-M shorty. You can have it in N/A or S/C tune. The S/C tune adds 10% fuel at WOT across the board. It is aimed at the user who doesn't intend to tune with a chip or other device. If you plan to tune with a chip or whatnot on a dyno, get the N/A tuned meter. The S/C tune tends to make the car rich on cars with adequate fuel systems and makes it more difficult to tune the chip as the extra fuel needs to be removed. Most tuners prefer their customers to get N/A tuned meters. Also when ordering any Pro-M meter, tell the tech guy you speak with everything relevant about your combo. Things like if you have a power pipe make a difference when they setup your meter. All Pro-M's are tuned on a flow bench and if your meter is going on a Power pipe, they actually mount it to one when they are tuning it.
Well I know which one I'll be getting!lol.
Thanks Hawk your always on the ball.
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