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sending a pro m to get recal?
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Thread: sending a pro m to get recal?

  1. #1
    Senior SCH Member
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    sending a pro m to get recal?

    I'm about to send my pro M off to get it recal it to my new injectors. I was wondering, on the recal forum it says Supercharged Y/N? Well I want it to e cal for N/A so do I put no there or do I go ahead and list I have a vortech on there?


    Also I really don't want to sound dumb, but I guess I better ask. What does it mean by Blow-Thru? I have no idea if mine is or isn't? I know that when I order my pro m through AFM I got it cal for N/A but they didn't say anything about the blow-thru. But I'm not sending that one to them. I have another meter that was cal for 50lb's and it was cal for a SC (it came with the car). but I want it to be 42lb's N/A. Damn I feel dumb for asking these questions cause I should already now the answer.


    Thanks
    Last edited by musclestang89; 01-26-2004 at 02:11 AM.
    89 GT - old combo -AOD, S-trimed, 302, stock short block - 6.67@106 with a 1.60 60ft, 4.10 gears. dyno 474rwhp, best in 1/4 3.55 gears 10.83@128 1.67
    Damn them stock cranks :(
    new comb in the works Dart 331 turbo :D

    98 GT - its a turd, but I like it ;)
    00 F-250 CC PSD 2WD- chip, converter

  2. #2
    Senior SCH Member
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    those aren't dumb questions at all. i have a question for you though. are you taking your blower off? why do you want your meter to be calibrated for a naturally aspirated motor? i can explain the reasoning behind my question if you'd like.

    a blow-thru meter is exactly that, the air is blown thru the meter. when the meter is installed before the blower, like your vortech application, the air is sucked through the meter. when the meter is after the power adder, like a turbo for example, the air is blown-thru the meter. if you want another example let me know.

  3. #3
    SCH Moderator UNTCHBL's Avatar
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    I suggest instead of paying 100+ to have it recalibrated spend a couple more bucks and get a pro-m optomizer so you can run whatever meter you want.
    90 strawberry coupe

  4. #4
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    heck no I'm not takeing the blower off, I love that thing :D


    the reason for N/A is casue I have a PMS now and I heard its easier to tune with when the meter is N/A than SC. I haven't messed with the PMS yet, but thats next.
    89 GT - old combo -AOD, S-trimed, 302, stock short block - 6.67@106 with a 1.60 60ft, 4.10 gears. dyno 474rwhp, best in 1/4 3.55 gears 10.83@128 1.67
    Damn them stock cranks :(
    new comb in the works Dart 331 turbo :D

    98 GT - its a turd, but I like it ;)
    00 F-250 CC PSD 2WD- chip, converter

  5. #5
    Senior SCH Member
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    i didn't think you were takin it off. ;) you shouldn't have any problems tuning with pms and the meter calibrated for NA. just get the meter recal'd for your setup (S/C) and your 42 lb injectors.

    you should also get a 37 point flow sheet with your meter when you get it recal'd from pro-m. it should look like this, http://pro-flow.com/flow%20sheets/42flow.htm. keep this sheet just incase you decide to get a chip burned or want to switch to a tweaker or eec-tuner later.

  6. #6
    Senior SCH Member TheHawk05's Avatar
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    Since you have a PMS to tune with I would recommend getting the N/A tune on your meter. The S/C tune is intended for individuals who don't plan on having the car tuned with a chip, PMS, etc (this is what my Pro-M tech told me when I ordered mine) The S/C tune adds 10% fuel at WOT across the rpm range so the fuel curve will be very safe and typically on most cars equipped with an adequate fuel system, the S/C tune makes the car too rich. Most respected tuners I know of recommend not only using nothing but a Pro-M meter (most won't touch a car with a C&L), but also getting the N/A tuned version as it makes life easier for them when they tune. I have an N/A tuned 80mm Pro-M on my ride and my A/F ratio is plenty safe.

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