sn2000

[Dirk Diggler]

I have a sn2000 with the modified impeller which gives me 8psi @ 5200rpms. I had it on the car for 3.5yrs and after 20K miles, it needs a rebuild. I took it off less than five minutes after the charger started to whine. Two weeks prior, the supercharger oil cooler was leaking at the dipstick:( The charger did run low, but not empty. I was told the ball drive uint is the first to go. I checked the pulley once I took the charger apart and it spins with out any catches. I was told that the input assembly is most likely good since it spins freely. And that the ball drive shoudl be replaced. My queston is about the shims. Do I need to get a micrometer and measure the shims that go behind the races to order the correct sizes from Paradise? Also, How high can I spin my sn2000? I have read both 38K and 42K. I have taken it up to 6000rpms which puts the charger at about 48K a few times. But i never stay in that range. I'm torn on selliing this unit becasue I want a reliable supercharger, yet dont want to spend an arm and a leg for another charger! I spent almost three G's on this one in 98! Anyway, your thoughts and comments are well appricated!

[Dirk Diggler]

Also, what is the difference between the sn92,93, and 2000's?

[speedytang]

The main differences between the SN series is updated bearings and seals. Do you have a chunk out of the impeller shaft then of course replace and also replace the balls. Your looking at $250-$300. You will not need to measure shims since you will be replacing with new parts. If the bearing races are OK that the balls ride in do not remove. If you have a digital camera take a picture of your impeller and I can tell you the safe limit for that impeller design.

[Dirk Diggler]

The main differences between the SN series is updated bearings and seals. Do you have a chunk out of the impeller shaft then of course replace and also replace the balls. Your looking at $250-$300. You will not need to measure shims since you will be replacing with new parts. If the bearing races are OK that the balls ride in do not remove. If you have a digital camera take a picture of your impeller and I can tell you the safe limit for that impeller design.

Speedytang,

Your gonna have to email me. I tried to email you and didnot get your addy? Don't know how to post an image? Also, I did take a pic of the impeller with my dig video camera. Quality is not the best, but it will do!

[speedytang]

speedytang@bright.net

[Dirk Diggler]

Speedytang,

So will I be OK to rev up to 5500 and occasionally 6000 rpms with the impeller I have? @ 5500 my sc will be turning about 44600, and at 6000 = 48700? I"m really concerned about the longevity of this charger. I think the reason why it started to fail was of two reasons. One, I had a leak at the oil cooler dipstick area and it ran dangerously low for a week! The oil was at teh very bottom of the dipstick! and Two, I let it sit for 7 mo without turning the pulley. I spoke with Craig @ paradise and he said that you must turn the pulley so the balls do not get flat spots on them??

Thank you for your help!

[speedytang]

Fluid level is really important since it uses a splash method to lubricate. Your RPMs are at a safe level if the blower has been setup correctly. If you see your boost drop instead of increasing with RPM check your belt first, if it is tight then your having a problem of the balls slipping across the impeller shaft.

[Dirk Diggler]

Your RPMs are at a safe level if the blower has been setup correctly....

Well, I am ordering the rebuild kit from Craig for the ball drive/output shaft and rear seal/berring. It looks pretty straight foward to repair. Just don't drop the balls on the races and be gentle, also 12-15lbs of torque on the plate that holds the races in place, right? Anything else to set it up correctly?

Once again,

Thank YOU!