Absolutely will not idle!

[EricBlueCoupe]

I have a Novi 1000 with 42# injectors and a Pro-M 80mm meter (calibrated for 42's s/c). It will NEVER idle, it just surges and dies. I have to keep my foot on the gas at any stoplight. Off idle and up, it seems just fine. I have tried clocking it, it changes absolutely nothing. I have tried a different IAC valve. My TPS is .950 volts at idle (not that it matters). My fuel pressure is 38 psi vac off, and my timing is locked at 20 degrees spout out.

My C&L 76mm worked better than this Pro-M. If I can not find a solution to make my car idle, I am going to remove this supercharger and sell it. I simply cannot drive it like this. It is dangerous and annoying. If anyone can help, I am open to ideas.

[Chuck]

Have you reset the computer?

After every change you make disconnect the battery for atleast a half hour.

Are you positive that there are no vaccuum leaks anywhere?

What are you trying to set your idle at?

My car used to get a bad surging idle if my PCV valve poped out. I fixed that problem a while back but thats the best I can do for you at this point.

Answer my Q's and I will see what else I can recommend.

[5150 LX]

#1 Do you have a bypass valve?

How many pounds you running to justify the 42# injectors?

Have you done as Chuck recommended?

Have you tried the Ford Idle plate (forget the official name of it), $20 from your local Ford house and it truely helps with idle issues.

Don't give up, it may be a pain but will be well worth it in the long run.

[EricBlueCoupe]

#1 Do you have a bypass valve?

How many pounds you running to justify the 42# injectors?

Have you done as Chuck recommended?

Have you tried the Ford Idle plate (forget the official name of it), $20 from your local Ford house and it truely helps with idle issues.

Don't give up, it may be a pain but will be well worth it in the long run.

-It is has the stock pullies on it for right now. The 42's were to grow into hopefully. Regardless, I do believe I should be able to get it to idle. I have been trying to get it to idle at 800-900 rpm (it does have the stock cam).

-Yes, I have a bypass valve.

-I have the battery disconnected (again) to reset the computer. I tried it earlier today, I am going to try it again.

-I have been over the vacuum lines, there are none loose.

-I have not tried the idle plate that Ford sells, might be worth a shot.

-It does idle perfectly at random moments. This makes me think there is something inconsistent. It has idled as smooth as stock at moments, but will begin to surge and die soon after.

[5150 LX]

42's are way too much at this point and they are a pain to get to idle properly especially w/o a tuner...

[EricBlueCoupe]

42's are way too much at this point and they are a pain to get to idle properly especially w/o a tuner...

Then, what to do? I do have some money tied up into it at this point. Before I bought anything, I posted multiple threads about "which injectors" and got an overwhelming response to get the 42's now. At this point I would have to sell the injectors and meter (at a loss I'm sure) and buy smaller injectors and a new meter. Even if I were running 12 lbs of boost, I would still have to figure out how to make it idle...

[5150 LX]

True Eric, but from what I have run across either the 42's will idle or not...most often not unless you have access to a tuner. With your current combo you could get away with 30's easy.

[regattacoupe]

Eric before you sell those 42's try setting your timing to 24 total or even 30 or what ever and just get it to idle and start from scratch. Timing really plays a big part in idle.

[EricBlueCoupe]

I just put the timing at like 28 and started it up. It seems like it is getting worse every day. It just sits there and chugs black smoke at idle. The C&L never chugged black smoke at idle. I still think it is in the meter, but apparently you can't accurately meter 42's at idle or something. This is the second time I have tried a Pro-M on my car, and the second time I have been disappointed on how it idles.

I think I am going to look into buying smaller injectors. Now I have to spend more money just to try to drive this thing like a normal person. I am seriously thinking about pulling it all off and selling the whole combo before I take too much of a loss on it. I can buy some good heads and make power reliably with a good idle n/a. I am very close to taking it all apart. There has to be a solution to this. It is the smallest, entry level blower. Would I be better off using a small injector and an FMU?

[regattacoupe]

Call Pro-M and chew some tail. Did you buy it new? If so they can take some of the fuel enrichment out and you might only be out shipping if you chew enough butt. It is very frustrating to have this happen as my car wass EXACTLY how you describe with the C&L 76-w-42's. Keep at it Eric and we'll do the best we can to help you.

[468LC]

It's not the injectors. If it's puking black smoke at idle it can only really be one thing.

I agree with brent.

I would also recommend the idle bypass plate even with the stock cam and see if you can get the idle high. Like up around a 1000 just to see if you can get the car to drive.

[EricBlueCoupe]

It's not the injectors. If it's puking black smoke at idle it can only really be one thing.

I agree with brent.

I would also recommend the idle bypass plate even with the stock cam and see if you can get the idle high. Like up around a 1000 just to see if you can get the car to drive.

OK, after some mother's day breakfast (and a little less frustrated at this point), I have a few ideas before I do anything drastic. I started thinking about HOW I have the Pro-M positioned. It is aimed straight down in the fenderwell. I wonder if I positioned it differently, if it would get a more accurate reading at idle. I have a custom made rig with tubing curving off the stock plastic inlet tube and into the inner fenderwell. I think I need to try a powerpipe (staighten the airflow out) and position the meter differently.

I think I will also change the plugs, as they are probably fuel fouled at this point. Also going to try brand new oxygen sensors (I do work parts and can just "try" them haha). I just cannot believe that the Pro-M is so much worse than the C&L. I think it should be the other way around. There are too many people running the 42's and making them work, I think it is just a metter of backing up and regrouping...

[468LC]

You do have to relax and be patient eric. DO you have another car to drive?

I know when I was bascially a test mule on the 1k with a few others over on corral before novipower it took me three damn months before I was even slightly happy with the driveablity of my car.

It took time and talking to probably 25 different people that helped me out along the way.:)

[TheHawk05]

I went through this exact same situation a couple weeks ago with my car after swapping ifrom 36's to 42's. I set the idle as best as I could and made sure the TPS voltage was within range (.95-.98 volts) fuel pressure @ 39psi vacuum off. I left my battery disconnected all night and the next day I hooked it up and immediately drove the car and I've had no issues since...the car now idles and drives perfectly.

Will doing what I did help you? Maybe, maybe not. I see it time and time again that 42's are a hit or miss proposition...sometimes you swap them in and have zero issues...other cars nothing short of a tune via chip or other device fixes the problem...there's no rhyme or reason to it. I for one never recommend 42's unless the owner has the ability to tune the car because part of the problem is the Ford EEC sometimes just can't cut back the timing of the injectors (time injectors are open) enough at idle to get it to run properly or even hot start properly (very common issue with 42's) I don't think a powerpipe will help you either as the Pro-M 80mm shorty deals with air disruption better than just about any meter out there. You may want to try raising the fuel pressure slightly as well...a pound or two can make a difference as large injectors need FP to spray properly.

It is possible though that the meter just isn't right. Call Pro-M and talk with one of their techs about your problem as I'm sure it won't be the first time they've had someone call with your problems. Good luck and I know it's easy to say..but try not to get frustrated...this is very fixable.

[EricBlueCoupe]

I just changed my plugs and played around for a bit. It still surges and puffs black smoke at idle. Off idle and up, it is just fine. Once rolling, it drives great, even in 5th gear at like 1300 rpm.

I unplugged the MAF meter and started the car up. It immideately idled at 800 and stayed as solid as stock, with the check engine light on of course. I know being rich at idle is causing the surge. Question is, how would I lean it out? Is the meter not calibrated correctly for idle?