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Absolutely will not idle! - Page 2
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Thread: Absolutely will not idle!

  1. #16
    Long Time SCH Member 468LC's Avatar
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    Eric how did you get that 80 prom hooked up to the stock paxton plastic snorkis of a inlet?
    Steve
    1996 Acura Integra GSR


    05 Pissat TDI

    99 F250 PSD CC SB 6spd 4x4.....89LX Notch, 429Big Block(Rolling chassis).

  2. #17
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    Update. I put the C&L back on and played a bit. It idles like stock, a/c on or off. No black smoke, no surging, virtually perfect. At rpm and throttle transistions, it is not as smooth as the Pro-M. The Pro-M feels smoother and stronger at rpms. I am going to call Pro-M and see if I can have them tweak it for idle purposes. The C&L proves it is possible to make it idle without a chip. But is is absolutley driveable at this point and I will probably get it to the track next week for some numbers.

    Steve: I fabricated up a tube to the inner fenderwell using my old C&L true flow aluminum inlet tube. It fits so awesome, it just doesn't work well!
    1989 LX Coupe
    Novi 1000, FMS/Bosch 42#'s, GT40 irons, GT40 intake, Pro-M 80mm MAF, 65mm T/B, 1.7 rockers, stock cam, MAC longtubes, MAC prochamber, flowmasters welded in stock pipes, T5z, 3.73 gears.

    Best ET: 12.55
    Best MPH: 115.2

  3. #18
    Long Time SCH Member 468LC's Avatar
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    Eric, I am proud of you man. Keep after it.

    I am going to buy you an internet beer for your efforts.:)
    Steve
    1996 Acura Integra GSR


    05 Pissat TDI

    99 F250 PSD CC SB 6spd 4x4.....89LX Notch, 429Big Block(Rolling chassis).

  4. #19
    SCH Moderator regattacoupe's Avatar
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    Yup, 99 out of 100 that i've seen, the maf is the culprit for rich idle. I've done some pretty extensive tests btw. Sounds like you've certainly narrowed it down. Now get on the horn Pro-M so you can enjoy that blower! It should make some pretty big Torque with that combo! And Torque is 10:1 more fun than Horsepower. ;)
    89 Coupe with parts stacked inside of it and about 30#'s of dust on it with no end in sight. :weird:





    Although I am collecting parts for a 12.5:1 393 :D

  5. #20
    SCH Moderator regattacoupe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by EricBlueCoupe

    I unplugged the MAF meter and started the car up. It immideately idled at 800 and stayed as solid as stock, with the check engine light on of course. I know being rich at idle is causing the surge. Question is, how would I lean it out? Is the meter not calibrated correctly for idle?
    Any news on this eric? Did you ever contact pro-m?
    89 Coupe with parts stacked inside of it and about 30#'s of dust on it with no end in sight. :weird:





    Although I am collecting parts for a 12.5:1 393 :D

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by regattacoupe
    Any news on this eric? Did you ever contact pro-m?
    Yeah I called tham and they agreed there is a calibration issue at idle. They told me to send it in and they would look at the calibration on their dime. I just need to ship it. I am constantly out of town, so I have not had a chance. Hopefully, I can get it trimmed down a bit at idle. If it does not fix it I will have to consider smaller injectors or a custom chip I imagine.

  7. #22
    Senior SCH Member
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    i have been having the saem issued with mine. the tuner even tryed taking fuel out for a warm start but it still wants to surge and die. if i have the idle up to 1000 it won't die while coming to a stop but still gives me fits when i first start it up when its already warm. i had my old c&l true flow tube rigged up like you did to get the filter down into the fenderwell. well last night i took the tube off and put the filter back on the end of the meter. it idles alot better now and warm starts don't appear to be an issue now. i still need to get it out for some road testing though.

    edit: i have the pro-m 75 bullit

  8. #23
    SCH Member
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    Yup, I took the true flow back off and put the K&N filter on the end of the meter, like Paxton gives you. I have been driving it the last few days just like stock. The C&L still doesn't feel as snappy as the Pro-M, but I will have to get a real powerpipe and put the Pro-M back on when I get it back. I have the best driveability so far with the C&L, K&N cone, and the plastic shield that Paxton gives you.

    I tried a back to back test with the C&L trueflow tube bolted up so it stuck basically as straight up out of the hood as possible. I put the C&L meter on it and started it, idled well. I turned the car off, put the Pro-M on it, and it chugged black smoke and started to surge right away.

    I am probably going to head out to the track tomorrow night for some passes and see how it does.

  9. #24
    Senior SCH Member
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    i think what i'm going to do is extend the wires on the meter so that i can still have the filter in the fenderwell.

  10. #25
    SCH Moderator 5150 LX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by slider_buck
    i think what i'm going to do is extend the wires on the meter so that i can still have the filter in the fenderwell.
    Just make sure that you soldier all connections, no butt connectors.
    Quote Originally Posted by Kato Engineering
    you just like the metric system because when you talk about your organs length, a three digit number seems to you longer than a one digit number....
    Dart Block 331 and No Power Adder, currently in pieces...... :weird:

    Used to run 6.90 @ 100.4 mph in the 1/8th

  11. #26
    Senior SCH Member
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    yep, thats the only way to do it. i always solder no matter what.

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